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bl@ke and Hargs. Ozymandias. TR

simey

7-Oct-2010
7:43:55 PM

On 7/10/2010 hargs wrote:
>There's a big, significant difference between taking yourself up there and figuring shit out on your own, and tagging along with someone who's done it before and knows what they're doing. Fishboy offered to go up with us -- thanks, FB -- but already a tiny, perverted part of my brain is telling me that would be a cop-out.

Good attitude. By all means learn a few tricks from experienced folk on other routes, but save Ozy and do it with someone who hasn't done it before so you get the most out of the experience.

PS. You're right about reducing the amount of stuff you need to take, but boombox is mandatory.

kieranl

7-Oct-2010
9:59:23 PM

On 7/10/2010 davidn wrote:
>And here I thought I was a dyed-in-the-wool metalhead. Scando metal =
>scandinavian metal?
>
>I always get confused between those guys and the Norwegians.
Scandinavian metal <> Norwegian wood

One Day Hero

8-Oct-2010
10:49:05 AM

On 7/10/2010 hargs wrote:
>ODH's post is basically on the
>money: harden up, princess. I'm putting this trip down to the recky I should
>have done first, and some bonus mental preparation.
>
Just for the record, I wasn't really guessing at what was going through your heads, simply recalling how badly I pooed my pants the first time I walked in to the gorge.

>-- Take less shit. Seriously, a lot less shit: No stove. One quarter the
>food or less. Somewhere between Neil's "3 bars per day" insanity and ODH's
>"it's not a camping holiday." And I considered lugging a boombox in there,
>fark me.

If you go food-flat you'll stop going up! Save weight on things like guidebooks.....a good rule is that you should be able to hand haul without wrecking yourself, but don't leave essentials behind........you should probably pack your haulbag with everything you think you'll take and test haul it up a tree before you go to back to buff.

>-- More confidence at the grade. Led Cream Machine the day after really
>enjoyed climbing the pitch -- but I balked at the M4 where Trogster took
>that 8m groundfall last March. Ideally, a few M4 pitches before next attempt,
>but I'd settle for one or two. (Annoyingly, I thought of top-roping the
>M4 on the drive back to Wagga; I really wish we'd done that instead of
>Banana Blase, or at least as well as, but it'll keep for next time.)
>
This is the key! Aiding is a bit technical and quite scary, remove the scary in order to learn the technical, then learn the scary later. I learned most of my aid climbing on toprope (self belay toprope means you don't waste anyones time belaying). Going fast on bomber gear is probably the number 1 skill for making walls pleasent, practice on free routes which have awesome gear all the way. See how fast you can go (still on toprope)..........big days of easy milage will teach you stuff quicker than a couple of drawn out knee tremblers.

>-- There's a big, significant difference between taking yourself up there
>and figuring shit out on your own, and tagging along with someone who's
>done it before and knows what they're doing. Fishboy offered to go up with
>us -- thanks, FB -- but already a tiny, perverted part of my brain is telling
>me that would be a cop-out. Like Gordoste said, it's scary and intimidating
>when it's all new.

Yeah, climb it with Blake, it'll be way more satisfying to do it yourselves
>
>-- Per ODH's TR rewrite, spend the next few weeks punching walls. I sprained
>my ankle on the way in, and my back hurt for days from lugging around a
>bunch of crap we didn't need. I need to train some weakness out of me.
>I taped ODH's post to my computer. I've been running up and down hills
>with my revised Ozy kit, cranking scando metal -- man that's some messed
>up shit -- practicing screaming obscenities at the traffic on the way to
>my fucharse job and ripping heads off butterflies. I'm not sure it's helping:
>my wife wants me committed.
>
Sweet, I might start doing motivational seminars like the c--k Warrior

>-- Get back to Buffalo in November for the aid weekend. M9, sign me up.

Drag Blake down there, work your system by aiding lots of easy free routes. Try to aid 300m over the w/e, doesn't matter if its all A1. Don't take any more falls! It'll do wonders for your confidence.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

8-Oct-2010
10:59:44 AM

On 8/10/2010 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 7/10/2010 hargs wrote:
>>ODH's post is basically on the
>>money: harden up, princess. I'm putting this trip down to the recky I
>should
>>have done first, and some bonus mental preparation.
>>
>Just for the record, I wasn't really guessing at what was going through
>your heads, simply recalling how badly I pooed my pants the first time
>I walked in to the gorge.
>
>>-- Take less shit. Seriously, a lot less shit: No stove. One quarter
>the
>>food or less. Somewhere between Neil's "3 bars per day" insanity and
>ODH's
>>"it's not a camping holiday." And I considered lugging a boombox in there,
>>fark me.
>
>If you go food-flat you'll stop going up! Save weight on things like guidebooks.....a
>good rule is that you should be able to hand haul without wrecking yourself,
>but don't leave essentials behind........you should probably pack your
>haulbag with everything you think you'll take and test haul it up a tree
>before you go to back to buff.
>
>
>>-- More confidence at the grade. Led Cream Machine the day after really
>>enjoyed climbing the pitch -- but I balked at the M4 where Trogster took
>>that 8m groundfall last March. Ideally, a few M4 pitches before next
>attempt,
>>but I'd settle for one or two. (Annoyingly, I thought of top-roping the
>>M4 on the drive back to Wagga; I really wish we'd done that instead of
>>Banana Blase, or at least as well as, but it'll keep for next time.)
>>
>This is the key! Aiding is a bit technical and quite scary, remove the
>scary in order to learn the technical, then learn the scary later. I learned
>most of my aid climbing on toprope (self belay toprope means you don't
>waste anyones time belaying). Going fast on bomber gear is probably the
>number 1 skill for making walls pleasent, practice on free routes which
>have awesome gear all the way. See how fast you can go (still on toprope)..........big
>days of easy milage will teach you stuff quicker than a couple of drawn
>out knee tremblers.
>
>>-- There's a big, significant difference between taking yourself up there
>>and figuring shit out on your own, and tagging along with someone who's
>>done it before and knows what they're doing. Fishboy offered to go up
>with
>>us -- thanks, FB -- but already a tiny, perverted part of my brain is
>telling
>>me that would be a cop-out. Like Gordoste said, it's scary and intimidating
>>when it's all new.
>
>Yeah, climb it with Blake, it'll be way more satisfying to do it yourselves
>>
>>-- Per ODH's TR rewrite, spend the next few weeks punching walls. I sprained
>>my ankle on the way in, and my back hurt for days from lugging around
>a
>>bunch of crap we didn't need. I need to train some weakness out of me.
>>I taped ODH's post to my computer. I've been running up and down hills
>>with my revised Ozy kit, cranking scando metal -- man that's some messed
>>up shit -- practicing screaming obscenities at the traffic on the way
>to
>>my fucharse job and ripping heads off butterflies. I'm not sure it's
>helping:
>>my wife wants me committed.
>>
>Sweet, I might start doing motivational seminars like the c--k Warrior
>
>>-- Get back to Buffalo in November for the aid weekend. M9, sign me up.
>
>Drag Blake down there, work your system by aiding lots of easy free routes.
>Try to aid 300m over the w/e, doesn't matter if its all A1. Don't take
>any more falls! It'll do wonders for your confidence.

The best post I have seen him do for some time, that contains a lot of good useful information as well as a bit of humour!
... but then again, maybe I have just got my aid focus blinkers on, and that is why I enjoyed it?
☺

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