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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
TR:The "Candlestick" and "Talk is Cheap" in Tassie
PThomson
24-Jan-2016
2:58:35 PM
G'day all,

Well I've been having plenty of adventures in Tassie (climbing down here has a default tendency to be adventurous), and I've written about two of them on my blog The Climbing Obscurist.

The Candlestick via The Corner Route (4-pitch Trad 18), which is the other (larger) pillar on the far side of the Totem Pole and features an epic approach and exit.

and:

Talk is Cheap (10-pitch Mixed 24) on the Mount Brown Main face, directly above the sea.

This blog update is located here: http://theclimbingobscurist.blogspot.com.au/2016/01/tazzuh-candlestick-and-talk-is-cheap.html.



Regards,

- Paul
widewetandslippery
24-Jan-2016
3:33:15 PM
Great report.

sliamese
28-Jan-2016
5:41:28 PM
There is a hands off kneebar immediately prior to the crux on pitch 2 of Talk is Cheap. We went up and slightly R of the bolt when we did it. The bolts at your feet when you do it. Yeh it feels committing but you have just abseiled past the sequence.

Glad you got to enjoy the radness that is tassie climbing!!
PThomson
28-Jan-2016
7:09:46 PM
Hey Simon... im down Tassie until April... Now in my 4th month (Including last year) of climbing down here... I love the place! Ticked Passchendale yesterday!

You guys went right of the bolt? That's interesting. All the chalk on the route went to the top of the double flake, then about 2m right up the stemming corner. Going direct (leftish of the bolt) was the individual move I thought was 25. The reason that the absense of an extra bolt surprised me, was because it was the only time on that whole route where you dealt with a runout (especially with a somewhat painful fall) where it WAS runout without an option of trad protection. But hey, thats just my opinion.

I didn't pre-inspect the route on the way down, as I wanted the true onsight (aaaand failed). I enjoyed the route regardless.

Regards,

-Paul


Snacks
29-Jan-2016
9:16:17 AM
Great blog Paul!
maxdacat
29-Jan-2016
3:28:29 PM
Wow....that's a lot of rock....how many new routes are waiting there for somebody with the right ability and/or boat?

:p
gfdonc
29-Jan-2016
4:37:51 PM
"we're gonna need a bigger boat" - Brody.
simey
31-Jan-2016
10:38:49 AM
Great blog. Good to read detailed reports about these mega-classics.

The original route on the Candlestick (up the chimneys) is also worthwhile. I'm not surprised you swam to the incorrect route given the guidebook has such poor (or totally wrong) descriptions to the Candlestick. The original route doesn't have bolt anchors at its base (and they are not required as there are good natural anchors to rig the rope).

I haven't done the final pitch of the The Candlestick as we ran out of time, but it sounds like you tyroleaned from the recommended spot (we tyroleaned from there as well). I agree with you that the tyrolean is quite involved.

Haven't done Talk is Cheap, but I am keen to do it. Interesting to get your overall perspective. Sounds like it needs an additional bolt at the crux on the second pitch. That section sounds like it really detracts in its current form.

Look forward to reading more of your adventures on some of the great climbs in the country.

PS. Good effort onsighting the Totem Pole.


There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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