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Buffalo Aidfest November 2014. |
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22-Jan-2015 7:01:32 PM
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Thanks M9. I'd better write something up so I can contradict at least a few of your points and add to the general confusion. My general sense of aid grades is that they are awfully confusing both for reasons of history, and because danger/exposure/big fall potential and difficulty don't always go hand in hand. I think TCM is harder than anything on Ozi.
Yes, I have a debt that can be measured in Litres.
Edit: M9, I thought you were calling me a number 2 nut, which I thought to be witty and inventive.
Bonus detail: it was a number two super light Rock, the single wire ones. Don't be put off by the low rating on those nuts, they are solid.
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28-Jan-2015 12:35:59 PM
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On 22/01/2015 phillipivan wrote:
>Thanks M9. I'd better write something up so I can contradict at least a
>few of your points and add to the general confusion. My general sense of
>aid grades is that they are awfully confusing both for reasons of history,
>and because danger/exposure/big fall potential and difficulty don't always
>go hand in hand. I think TCM is harder than anything on Ozi.
>
I look forward to it.
>
>Yes, I have a debt that can be measured in Litres.
It was reference to your success, not the debt!
>
>Edit: M9, I thought you were calling me a number 2 nut, which I thought
>to be witty and inventive.
The shoe fits!!
>
>Bonus detail: it was a number two super light Rock, the single wire ones.
>Don't be put off by the low rating on those nuts, they are solid.
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9-Sep-2015 8:56:00 PM
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On 22/01/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>Meanwhile, Damo Milo reccy’d the Gorge area for future adventures, then
>set his portaledge a couple of metres below Wilkinson Ledge adjacent around
>the corner from the Lord Gumtree final pitches of Ozy Direct, in order
>to ambush PI & Scott when they appeared later that evening.
>
>Stop and consider that kind of humour for a moment...
>
>Image you are 16 hours into a long multipitch climb, and starting to feel
>fatigued.
>It is pitch black dark, and raining.
>You have one pitch to go before calling it done, but you are revelling
>in the solitude of your surroundings as they are in a lonely outrageously
>exposed location removed from the trappings of civilisation.
>You are contemplating your aloneness at this penultimate belay while your
>partner is ascend-cleaning the pitch below to join you.
>~> and then a gravelly voice whispers in your ear-
>
Actually it was considerably weirder than all that. On the penultimate pitch, I started to smell tobacco smoke. Which became unmistakable by the time I was at the belay below the slot. However being unable to reconcile the smell with my location, I started to believe it was some weird combination of the rain, the grass and organic matter in the cracks, and my fatigue. Some kind of olfactory hallucination. It was only later when I heard Damo speak that I realised that the tobacco that I smelt was in fact just that.
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10-Sep-2015 3:26:37 PM
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M9 are you guys catching up in 2015?
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10-Sep-2015 3:30:10 PM
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Yes.
Discussions behind the scene are already taking place... ~> stand by for further developments!
On 9/09/2015 phillipivan wrote:
>Actually it was considerably weirder than all that. On the penultimate
>pitch, I started to smell tobacco smoke. Which became unmistakable by the
>time I was at the belay below the slot. However being unable to reconcile
>the smell with my location, I started to believe it was some weird combination
>of the rain, the grass and organic matter in the cracks, and my fatigue.
>Some kind of olfactory hallucination. It was only later when I heard Damo
>speak that I realised that the tobacco that I smelt was in fact just that.
>
@pi
Thanks for that further bit of abstractness!
;-)
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10-Sep-2015 3:31:51 PM
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Cheers. Might be placed this year.
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