Crag & Route Beta

Author	Frog Buttress and Glasshouse
nmonteith 16-Jun-2009 10:46:21 AM	Although i have to admit the last time i camped there for a week we didn't pay. We didn't have a car so it was hard for them to track us down i guess!
phil_nev 16-Jun-2009 10:54:42 AM	What the hell is the differenceing between jamming and jamBing?
nmonteith 16-Jun-2009 11:04:43 AM	You'll have to go to Frog and find out Phil.
daave 16-Jun-2009 11:05:30 AM	How about Kangaroo pt? Best option for camping nearby?
nmonteith 16-Jun-2009 11:14:59 AM	On 16/06/2009 daave wrote: >How about Kangaroo pt? Best option for camping nearby? Seriously? That's like asking what the best place to camp for Sydney Harbour Bridge or Flinders Street Train Station. It's slap bang in the CBD.
Eduardo Slabofvic 16-Jun-2009 12:03:39 PM	On 16/06/2009 daave wrote: >How about Kangaroo pt? Best option for camping nearby? Porta-ledge bivi
daave 16-Jun-2009 12:04:44 PM	Haha, my bad. I knew it was cityish, but i thought it may have been on the outskirts type thing. Ohwell. Ohwell, off to my exam!
The good Dr 16-Jun-2009 12:22:37 PM	On 16/06/2009 phil_nev wrote: >What the hell is the differenceing between jamming and jamBing? Given the way you approach grade 15 hand cracks it will be a long and hard road to learn the subtle, yet critical, distinction. ;)
nmonteith 16-Jun-2009 12:44:18 PM	KP on the right with all the lights.
phil_nev 16-Jun-2009 12:46:36 PM	On 16/06/2009 The good Dr wrote: >On 16/06/2009 phil_nev wrote: >>What the hell is the differenceing between jamming and jamBing? > >Given the way you approach grade 15 hand cracks it will be a long and >hard road to learn the subtle, yet critical, distinction. ;) Touchee Dr.... But to be fair, my hyands were to small to provide any sort of meaningfull jams on said route, which by the way was a cruise. However, Let me retort... Given the way you approach grade 18+ trad routes, it will be a long and hard road to learn the subtle, yet critical, distinction between trad climbing and sport climbing a trad route ;)
devlin66 16-Jun-2009 1:06:18 PM	........ or trad climbing a sport route maybe?
daave 16-Jun-2009 1:11:39 PM	Oh wow! That looks madness!
Phil Box 16-Jun-2009 1:28:52 PM	On 16/06/2009 daave wrote: >Oh wow! That looks madness! KP might look awesome but in reality it is a dirty greasy choss filled quarry. It is just sooo handy and free to many folks in Brisvegas. As for climbing with heaps of cams, these days I find myself topping out at Frog with having not used any cams. They are pretty much just weight training these days. I always look for the passive pro placements. Mind you some routes simply beg to have cams placed in them and of course I do so. Shoulda seen the crowds at Frog on Queens B/Day weekend. You can pay at the campground now and they do check on a regular basis that everyone has paid. They have not long ago changed the system back to how you could pay i/e fill out the tag and place the dollrs in the envelope, slip envelope in slot at the pay booth. Works much better.
Lhotse 16-Jun-2009 1:39:24 PM	try 'venom ', an interesting 21 OW problem, kinda old school, but a great route to send... with a kick in the pants fingers bit at the end. agree wtih neil, 'child in time' is one of the best routes there. what's the deal with 'insomnia', it's 21 in the old rock mag guide, and 23 in the cheap an nasty guide? i was up there over the long weekend and didn't manage to get on it, but what do people think about the grade... is it 21 or 23? seems like quite a difference??
The good Dr 16-Jun-2009 1:40:16 PM	On 16/06/2009 phil_nev wrote: >On 16/06/2009 The good Dr wrote: >>On 16/06/2009 phil_nev wrote: >>>What the hell is the differenceing between jamming and jamBing? >> >>Given the way you approach grade 15 hand cracks it will be a long and >>hard road to learn the subtle, yet critical, distinction. ;) > >Touchee Dr.... But to be fair, my hyands were to small to provide any >sort of meaningfull jams on said route, which by the way was a cruise. > >However, Let me retort... >Given the way you approach grade 18+ trad routes, it will be a long and >hard road to learn the subtle, yet critical, distinction between trad climbing >and sport climbing a trad route ;) Regardez touche ainsi. I am only learning from the true old masters! And I will meet you at 21/22+ ;)
nmonteith 16-Jun-2009 1:40:24 PM	On 16/06/2009 Phil Box wrote: >You can pay at the campground now and they do check on a regular basis >that everyone has paid. They have not long ago changed the system back >to how you could pay i/e fill out the tag and place the dollrs in the envelope, >slip envelope in slot at the pay booth. Works much better. Now they just need to change their website to reflect this!
nmonteith 16-Jun-2009 3:05:09 PM	On 16/06/2009 Phil Box wrote: >KP might look awesome but in reality it is a dirty greasy choss filled >quarry. It is just sooo handy and free to many folks in Brisvegas. Stop talking about Kent like that Phil! He might be handy and free but that doesn't make him dirty. oook - back on topic. I actually think Kangaroo Point is a great little crag for a half day tourist visit to Brisbane. If you enjoy Werribie Gorge than KP is that and more. Lots of routes, quite a bit of variety (excellent in the 16 - 24 grades). The position is second to none and the social aspect is great - its the real hub of Queensland climbing. I've enjoyed my last few visits there, especially when family and friends can all enjoy a BBQ and heckle me falling off routes i did clean 15 years ago...
Eduardo Slabofvic 16-Jun-2009 3:11:40 PM	On 16/06/2009 nmonteith wrote: >especially when family and friends can all enjoy a BBQ >and heckle me falling off routes i did clean 15 years ago... Those routes would have changed significantly in that time, enough to qualify as different routes. I was there a few weeks ago and that boulder problem that starts with the big heel hook (Exterminator maybe????) used to be kinda hard, now there's a massive jug and the flake has moved about a metre to the left.
devlin66 16-Jun-2009 6:16:19 PM	Anything familiar becomes boring. Yes KP can be a little uninspiring at times but given where it is, how much climbing is there and damn it some of those climbs are really good. Has anybody had a clean up day at KP in the last 30 years. I mean go along and give some of the holds a wash from all the grease and chalk that has built up......... anyone?......... nah didn't think so. It is what it is and I reckon Melbourne folk would do back flips if you transplanted it to Lonsdale Street. Now what do we do about all the queenslanders living in Brisbane?
phil_nev 17-Jun-2009 8:51:10 AM	I still don't know the difference between jamming & jamBING???????

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