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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Grey & Green Walls [ Grampians Guide | Images ]

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Big Cam on Sweet Dreams, Stapylton Amphitheatre?

bones

22-May-2009
2:50:23 PM

Hi all,

Would a BD #4 Camalot be enough to protect the roof? I've got a couple of #3's aswell
Not too keen on running it out as the grade is near my limit...

Thanks for your help!
Tony.

kieranl

22-May-2009
4:46:25 PM

Yes.

bones

22-May-2009
4:56:23 PM

Thanks Kieran!

jgoding

22-May-2009
5:35:05 PM

There is a good thread through a small hole on the left too (before you move right and up to the roof) which while a little tricky to place is really good gear and helps to keep you calm.Hope you enjoy the route, it's a ripper!

a 120cm sling is probably ideal for the thread.

swampy

8-Jun-2009
8:00:36 PM

I think a 1 or 2 BD cam is good just above the lip too from memory..

mick

8-Jun-2009
11:17:46 PM

Leave the big gear at home and take some slings from memory...

gfdonc

9-Jun-2009
11:35:18 AM

I used a #5 friend, can't speak for BD. A purple one I think.
I'd take the big cam. Yes you get good gear as you pull around the roof but that's after you've committed yourself. The gear under the roof is fiddly (I think I opposed a wire and microcam).

There are 7 messages in this topic.