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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge (General) (General) [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Ozy! Ozy! Ozy! Aid! Aid! Aid!
bl@ke
27/03/2009
10:09:37 PM
I am realy keen to do ozy sometime in the future so i am looking for some tips, like how to learn to aid and stuff like that. it dosnt matter to me if i second the whole thing i just want to do it for the experience. obviusly i will need to do some trad climbing and stuff like that and learn to not be a bumbly! so does anyone have any pointers on how to become an aid master? lol

Sabu
Online Now
27/03/2009
10:16:23 PM
Best add M10 to your speed dial if you want any aid info! I'm sure he'll reply shortly!

Macciza
27/03/2009
10:40:21 PM
> so does anyone have any pointers on how to become an aid master? lol
start at the bottom and work your way up . . .



wallwombat
27/03/2009
11:09:47 PM
I'd recommend you learn to trad climb and place gear to start with. Then do some multipitch routes. See how you go.

And

Buy John Long and John Middendorfs book, Climbing Big Walls and read it heaps and heaps.

There's heaps of other stuff I would recommend that you do but it's late and I have to get up early.

Remember there is a thing called a learning curve and taking shortcuts along the way can be very dangerous.

Good luck.


Li
28/03/2009
8:42:36 AM
You might have to overcome your fear of heights and multi-pitch climbing before you take on Ozi (as I read from one of your previous posts).....although, what a climb to face your fears!

Good luck....I'm sure if you're determined and focussed you'll get there!
mikl law
28/03/2009
9:04:20 AM
Aid toprope solo (hang a fat rope down, belay yourself to it with figure 8 knots or a grigri with a knot below it)
It will improve your trad climbing too, and not waste anyone else time.
Once you can place gear well, then you learn to move more efficiently on aid, and then you'll finally get the other systems in place, It takes a while.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
28/03/2009
11:00:10 AM
There is good advice in the replies above, and I particularly agree with mikl's ...

On 28/03/2009 mikl law wrote:
>you'll finally get the other systems in place, It takes a while.

True.
~> I am still learning!




bl@ke wrote;
>I am realy keen to do ozy sometime in the future so i am looking for some tips, like how to learn to aid and stuff like that. it dosnt matter to me if i second the whole thing i just want to do it for the experience. obviusly i will need to do some trad climbing and stuff like that and learn to not be a bumbly! so does anyone have any pointers on how to become an aid master? lol

Going straight from being a boulderer to doing a multiday (for most folk), aid climb is ambitious in my opinion, though not unachievable.
I climb at Buffalo a fair bit and enjoy aid climbing. If you want to learn about what is involved then I'd be happy to indoctrinate introduce you to the black art of same(!) some time while I am up there; as there is nothing quite like getting some exposure to the real thing to work out whether or not it is for you.






Li wrote;
>.....although, what a climb to face your fears!

>Good luck....I'm sure if you're determined and focussed you'll get there!

Sounds like we may have more than one new contender for Ozy??




Macciza wrote;
Re
>> so does anyone have any pointers on how to become an aid master? lol

>start at the bottom and work your way up . . .

bl@ke is!!
~> He is bouldering is he knot ?
;-p

bl@ke
29/03/2009
11:58:28 AM
Thanks for all the advice everyone.
I would like to get up to buffalo sometime with ya M9, although i am busy for about a month so sometime after that maybe?


thanks again everyone :)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
29/03/2009
2:51:34 PM
PM'd you bl@ke.

Li
29/03/2009
8:52:43 PM
On 28/03/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:


>Sounds like we may have more than one new contender for Ozy??

hehe....maybe.....'never say never'. Just need to get out and climb more....damn it!

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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