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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles The Bluffs (General) Bluff Major [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ]

Author

Link ups

Rupert

12-May-2004
12:24:12 PM

One of my most memorable days on Tiger Wall was linking Yo Yo > Scorpian Corner > Quo Vadis - the latter of which I basically fell up after toasting myself following Scorpian Corner.

I was looking at some much easier variations of all this for some easy big day(s) out and was looking at something like Hawk > Ivan > Blockbuster. My question is: can you easily access the lefthand end of the Blockbuster ledge from the top of Ivan?

Any other link ups you guys and gals can suggest that are worth doing?

James

12-May-2004
1:11:42 PM

yeah, Ivan gets you up onto the Blockbuster ledge.

I've had some good days doing things like
Euradyces (spelling?)/Poppies/the Desired ->
Scorpion Direct/crappy 18 next to Ivan ->
Quo Vadis/Scorprio/Goodbye to All That (which goes into p2 of Kharma Sutra)

Or Kaiser/Resignation up to the Bluffs. For me that face of the Bluffs is the most impressive & atmospheric wall at Araps.

Steve M

12-May-2004
2:20:49 PM

I've done resignation, ivan, blockbuster linkup. It was an awesome day. We met some friends at Ivan who'd done syrinx to get there. I've got to say that most of us cursed our way up Ivan.

adski

12-May-2004
3:30:22 PM

After doing a route on the watchtower slabs you might think it's time to go back down. Don't! There's a great wall behind the watchtower slabs RHS called Tjuringa wall. The easiest route up it is another two pitches: Strangers Eliminate.

I can recommend Fly Lichen Eagle (18,20) followed by Strangers Eliminate (20,18?)

(removed)

26-May-2004
12:25:28 PM

Or for the mentally and technically strong (and using the same walls)

Auto-da-fe (moderately scary 21) into Bad Cheques (very scary 23)

Finish up Stranger's Eliminate pitch 2.

Duncan

2-Jun-2004
7:36:31 PM

I did Kestrel, roped up for the scramble, then Ivan and Blockbuster in a link-up. I really wasn't expecting much from Ivan, having been told that it was a dirty, thrutchy piece of crap, but I must admit I quite enjoyed it. My belayer asked me how I was going about three quarters of the way up and my reply was "I'm absolutely f---ing terrified". The two women who asked if we could take their rope up for them so they didn't have to lead it clearly agreed with me.

Anyway, great link-up.

Rupert

2-Jun-2004
9:37:37 PM

Hmmm... it sounds like this Ivan character is a little dubious!

shaggy

3-Jun-2004
1:19:04 AM

reminds me of a quote from a good friend of mine (who climbs quite well):
"I would rather solo scorpion corner (23) barefoot, than ever climb Ivan again"

WM

3-Jun-2004
9:13:32 AM

In its defence....my faint memories of Ivan are that it seems horrendous as you approach but went quite elegantly via some unusual moves

Robb

3-Jun-2004
10:18:01 AM

i first did ivan when guiding some school kids to get to blockbuster. the climb being 50% wet and dripping made it a bit interesting. cant say i enjoyed it though. since done it a few more times and its all over before it begins really.

Duncan

4-Jun-2004
2:32:23 PM

I really did like it, once I got off it! I boulder up to about v5, but it took me about 5 minutes to work out how to get off the ground.

There are 11 messages in this topic.