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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 27
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Mt Alexander Dog Rocks (General) [ Mt Alexander Guide | Images ] 

Author
Route next to Jewellery?
martinpribble
27/01/2009
2:54:24 PM
Hi All, this is my first post to Chockstone.
We were at Dog Rocks yesterday for a great day's climbing, and I managed my first ever onsight on a
route that is apparently unnamed... It's to the left of the crack 10cm crack and the tree near Jewellery. A
fairly crimpy/slabby route, maybe 20m (maybe) 3 bolts, the first one about 10m up. Top-out is a single
bolt belay under the cool shade of the tree.

Seemed to me like around a 17? Anyone know anything about this route? What did you think of it? Any
other ascents?

harold
27/01/2009
4:29:35 PM
I did it a while ago. Its listed as an unnamed 16 on thecrag.com
I cant remember whether its listed in guide or update somewhere, but I don't think it has a name. I thought it was a pretty fun slab route.
martinpribble
27/01/2009
5:01:49 PM
Yeah I thoroughly enjoyed it. We were looking at it from the ground, and it looks like it could be
straightened right out with an extra bolt toward the left arete.

harold
27/01/2009
5:09:29 PM
The arete caught my eye as well. I toproped it as direct start at around grade 21. Was fairly good climbing with a few little crimps.
fish boy
28/01/2009
9:53:34 AM
20m? You're on drugs dude. I'd say 10m max. The route you're talking about used to have a nice little undercling but now it has gone. It is a late addition squeeze job going where there is no route....and everything is breaking off it.
martinpribble
28/01/2009
12:11:56 PM
well since the first bolt is about 5 above the deck, I'd estimate a fair bit more, but whatever.
fish boy
28/01/2009
4:04:47 PM
One or two hard moves, clip a bolt, then walk two more and you're at the top. How long is Jewellery?

I'd rather waste my time on Painless....

Anyway...

martinpribble
28/01/2009
4:41:59 PM
oh you are right, it's only 13m 16. If it were to be straightened out long the arete, I reckon you could get it
up as high as 17m, and up a grade or two.

Worth a thought.

Anyone have any idea who bolted it? Looks reasonably new for the most part.
Anyway, my first onsight proper, scared ma a tad, but what would I know, I'm just a noob to this "Sharp
End" stuff...
fish boy
30/01/2009
9:42:21 AM
If you are in the Bendigo area, drop in on Steve Morris from Rock Hardware. I forgot who bolted it, maybe Chris Cope (Kanya on here)....
WM
30/01/2009
11:07:38 AM
how about you guys pool all your local knowledge in ACA?

The Mt Alex section is here - it's dead easy to add route descriptions:
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=subregion®ion_id=84
fish boy
30/01/2009
11:39:39 AM
Might do WM. How did you know about the rocks opposite Blue Tongue? I am out of touch, but my impression was that Alex from Bendigo OE ran in there with his drill and now there are some issues. I have never met anyone who has climbing there, but it is located very much on private property and the owner is/was npot happy.

Will find out.
WM
30/01/2009
1:23:22 PM
they are in thecrag.com !
rolsen1
30/01/2009
1:26:43 PM
Anyone got any info on the short corner with two U bolts? Its uphill and right from little bo peep or downhill from the 19 with one bolt.

I reckon its a pretty good area for the 17-20 climber.
kp
30/01/2009
4:09:51 PM
On 30/01/2009 rolsen1 wrote:
>Anyone got any info on the short corner with two U bolts? Its uphill and
>right from little bo peep or downhill from the 19 with one bolt.
>
>I reckon its a pretty good area for the 17-20 climber.

It was a project of mine. Pretty good bouldery route, but a bit sharp. Probably 27 i'd say.

It's open to anyone who's keen.

nmonteith
30/01/2009
4:35:24 PM
On 30/01/2009 kp wrote:
>It was a project of mine. Pretty good bouldery route, but a bit sharp.
> Probably 27 i'd say.
>
Don't you mean 'is' a project of yours KP? Now that you live in Vic again you got no excuse...
fish boy
30/01/2009
4:43:40 PM
Huh? I tried a short corner with two staples or u's (I forgot) to the right of LBP and got it. I must be thinking of something differant because I climb way way below 27 Kent. When did this thing go in?

I hadn't seen the listing on the crag before...
kp
30/01/2009
5:11:25 PM
On 30/01/2009 fish boy wrote:
>Huh? I tried a short corner with two staples or u's (I forgot) to the right
>of LBP and got it. I must be thinking of something differant because I
>climb way way below 27 Kent. When did this thing go in?
>
>I hadn't seen the listing on the crag before...

Its on a round boulder above LBP. It's got strange blocky granite, slightly overhung. I never listed it as i never did it. I imagine it was bolted around 2 years ago.

kp
30/01/2009
5:19:51 PM
On 30/01/2009 fish boy wrote:
>Might do WM. How did you know about the rocks opposite Blue Tongue? I am
>out of touch, but my impression was that Alex from Bendigo OE ran in there
>with his drill and now there are some issues. I have never met anyone who
>has climbing there, but it is located very much on private property and
>the owner is/was npot happy.
>
>Will find out.

I climbed there once with mr B. It was pretty low angled, so a bit dirty and not that great. I wouldn't recommend a visit, especially if it's on private property.
fish boy
31/01/2009
12:32:40 AM
Yeah, thought as much....I looked at it from afar and left it that way.
rolsen1
31/01/2009
5:39:00 PM
On 30/01/2009 fish boy wrote:
>Huh? I tried a short corner with two staples or u's (I forgot) to the right
>of LBP and got it. I must be thinking of something differant because I
>climb way way below 27 Kent. When did this thing go in?
>
>I hadn't seen the listing on the crag before...

You have to scramble up to get to the start. The top U seem quite high to me.

What grade do you reckon then?

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 27
There are 27 messages in this topic.

 

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