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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 59
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge (General) (General) [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Mt Buffalo Gorge - North Wall descent.
DMWdesign
26-Jun-2014
11:14:00 PM
On 26/06/2014 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 26/06/2014 DMWdesign hassled chocky again:
>>Is that to the right, facing the cliff?
>
>>Facing the cliff, are the two further abseils down Comet Ramp on the
>left
>>or right?
>>
>You are going down yes?
>It is obvious which way is down when you get there.
>This is a climbing site mate. Almost every reference to L + R is (as traditionally
>done) facing the cliff unless specifically noted otherwise.
>
>When you eventually get on it, don't forget to come back to us with a
>trip report, so you can hassle again with questions about how to post pictures.
>
>
>There ya go M9. Fixed that for ya.
>
>Ay gfdonc bro. D Man Wdesign is a rapper not a climber. It's obvious you
>saved yourself the pain of reading earlier posts.
>How can I get that 10 mins of my life back?

thanks guys for clarification
I promise no more questions - and I won't bore you with the pics!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27-Jun-2014
10:42:16 AM
On 26/06/2014 DMWdesign wrote:
>thanks guys for clarification
>I promise no more questions - and I won't bore you with the pics!

Don’t be disheartened by a plain-typing DD post, DMW.
It comes from one of our resident (often perceived as being trolls*), Chocky posters.
(* They are a bit chameleon like as they change from time to time!)
If you hang around Chockstone long enough you will realise they are lightweight yet colourful threads of the Chockstone Posting Tapestry.

Re a Trip Report; I for one would be interested to see how you go, and it may also help the wider readership if they get feedback on how useful you find the information you have gleaned from this site (especially updates on anything that may have changed), before/after embarking on your adventure.
For those of us who might take such things a little bit for granted, it is always good to see things from another perspective.

Re photos; they are easy enough as long as they are smaller than about 65kb & less wide than 700 pixels.
http://www.chockstone.org/upload/files-upload.asp


On 26/06/2014 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>There ya go M9. Fixed that for ya.
>>
I see the irony!

DMWdesign
27-Jun-2014
6:17:05 PM
On 27/06/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>Don’t be disheartened by a plain-typing DD post, DMW.

thanks for your words of encouragement M9
I'll post feedback on the route after the trip
and maybe a photo

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27-Aug-2014
1:34:24 PM
Under the floorboards a couple of months has gone by...
=================================================================

On 23/06/2014 DMWdesign wrote:
>>When are you undertaking this adventure of yours?
>
>I am planning on doing this trip sometime in November - longer days & dryer rock

I notice you have logged in frequently since you posted the above message, so I assume you are aware of the upcoming Buffalo Wallathon 22-23 Nov?

You might like to join us and share* a campsite? ~> though others will likely be camped on the wall...
It might be handy to have experienced backup in the area at the time??
(*Minimises costs all around...)

As a heads up if you have not noticed already on that thread, it is likely that Defender will be getting a solo ascent during that time, though knowing the person involved I expect it will only be a single day affair.
DMWdesign
28-Oct-2014
8:44:25 AM
On 27/06/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>Re a Trip Report; I for one would be interested to see how you go, and
>it may also help the wider readership if they get feedback on how useful
>you find the information you have gleaned from this site (especially updates
>on anything that may have changed), before/after embarking on your adventure.
.........


Thanks M9 for all your info about the route.

As planned, I did the trip a few days ago. - a great day out and the first three abseils were very exciting.
The whole area had a great atmosphere and the exposure was awesome.
We used 60m ropes and carried spare 50s. We also used basic walky-talkies which we found indispensable.

The route info given was accurate. We extended the first anchor as suggested. Not having been there before, it was a bit hard deciding on the correct line of the first abseil, but it was OK in the end. Someone had kindly secured a piece of carpet for edge protection at the first rap ledge. We scrambled down the last 20m of the last abseil on Comet Ramp and found the start of the climbers track relatively easily. The walk out was straightforward and track easy to follow.

We had a couple of bad luck dramas but these were successfully resolved and added to whole adventure. On the first abseil, at the rope retrieval, the end of the rope fell down and got firmly stuck around a flake (or fluke!) of rock about 15m up. I did eventually free it, but you’d be horrified if I told you how.

At the rope retrieval on the second abseil the rope fell down and decided to loop itself tightly around a small bush down to the left of an overhanging part of the cliff. – about 6m off the line of the rap. It probably would have pulled off during the abseil but after the first drama we did not want to take any chances. The work around was looping the abseil rope over a knob of rock at the far left end of the ledge. A bit of an awkward start, but this bought me down closer to the bush. When level with bush I locked off and was able to pull myself across on holds on the overhang and free the rope. After I was down, my mate retrieved the rope from the knob and abseiled directly from the bolts.

We checked out Dave Chitty’s (?) abseil point on the high point of Comet Ramp and next time I would probably abseil from there as the last two abseils in the gully are fairly uninspiring – although they do get you closer to the climbing track.

Thanks again for your help


awkward start on third abseil

rope snag (below right) on third abseil

IdratherbeclimbingM9
28-Oct-2014
9:50:21 AM
On 28/10/2014 DMWdesign wrote:
>I did eventually free it, but you’d be horrified if I told you how.

Sounds like you are transitioning from abseiling to climbing ;-) ...
?
~> A good move!!!
Heh, heh, heh.

>abseil point on the high point of Comet Ramp
Yes, it is DC's.
I have not yet continued that line myself, but strongly suspect that his mob does that whole wall as two abseils, that being; one from the top to Fuhrer Ledge, then the second from that anchor to the base. If this is the case, then you may end up having to find/rely on a natural anchor below it if using standard length ropes.


Thanks for the feedback to this site.

You can now plan/do other abseiling adventures on the north wall ☺, though you will want a longer* rope if doing the Ozymandias overhangs.

(*A 200 m rope rigged off the boulders just outside (north side) Wilkinsons lookout gets you to the hanging belay below Big Grassy ledge.)
DMWdesign
7-Nov-2014
6:28:25 AM
On 27/08/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Under the floorboards a couple of months has gone by...
>===============================================================

>You might like to join us and share* a campsite? ~> though others will
>likely be camped on the wall...

Thanks M9
Coincidently I will be at Buffalo that weekend on an Abseilers' Picnic, camping at Lake Catani, so we may catch up.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7-Nov-2014
9:35:28 PM
On 7/11/2014 DMWdesign wrote:
>On 27/08/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>Under the floorboards a couple of months has gone by...
>>===============================================================
>
>>You might like to join us and share* a campsite? ~> though others will
>>likely be camped on the wall...
>
>Thanks M9
>Coincidently I will be at Buffalo that weekend on an Abseilers' Picnic,
>camping at Lake Catani, so we may catch up.

I look forward to the meeting...
Re:
>we may catch up
I am likely camping on phillipivans site 12, under a tarp attached to an orange motorcycle.
Look for the oldest bugger there and it likely will be me!
Heh, heh, heh.

If our campsites end up as overflowing, do you mind taking extras on yours to help defray your costs? (and vice versa is OK too, I add! ☺)

Hmm.
Abseilers picnic?
1st I have heard of such an event.
What are your intended 'routes' on that weekend?
DMWdesign
9-Nov-2014
10:26:54 PM
On 7/11/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>I look forward to the meeting...
>Re:
>>we may catch up
>I am likely camping on phillipivans site 12, under a tarp attached to
>an orange motorcycle.
>Look for the oldest bugger there and it likely will be me!
>Heh, heh, heh.
>
>If our campsites end up as overflowing, do you mind taking extras on yours
>to help defray your costs? (and vice versa is OK too, I add! ☺)

yep, no worries, there will be 5 of us in 3 tents over 2 sites

>Hmm.
>Abseilers picnic?
>1st I have heard of such an event.
>What are your intended 'routes' on that weekend?

- and you just look for the second oldest bugger on Mt. Buffalo at sites 02 &03!

I was trying to be funny about the abseilers picnic.

I am up for the weekend, originally intending to do the big north wall abseil with Dave Chitty, but my wife reckons a 160m abseil is too boring and the big climb out too hard, You can't win! So we are now doing a lesser trip on the south wall. DC said it wasn't worth his while doing the north wall with only three people and it was going to be too expensive anyway, so now there is 5 of us doing the south wall. The plan is to abseil one day and do a day walk the other. This is actually a club trip with the VMTC (Victorian Mountain Tramping Club) of which I have been a member for the last 38 years.

While I am up there I would be keen to see what you climbers are doing and I would also like to show the others the view of the North Wall and the Defender rap which I would like to do again some time.
PeeJayDee
5-Dec-2017
6:41:04 PM
Hey, how did your trip go? I'm planning to go to mt buffalo before Christmas and was thinking about descending (I'm a canyoner too) but cannot find much tech info or track notes. Could you give some advice please.

Duang Daunk
6-Dec-2017
9:58:22 AM
On 5-Dec-2017 PeeJayDee wrote:
>Hey, how did your trip go? I'm planning to go to mt buffalo before Christmas
>and was thinking about descending (I'm a canyoner too) but cannot find
>much tech info or track notes. Could you give some advice please.

Hey canyoner bro, did you actually read this thread?
It’s old but the info it contains is still good and you are unlikely to find any further tech info or track notes unless you buy the most recent Mt Buffalo Climbing Guide, or bribe Miguel75 with a milkshake for his intimate knowledge of all things Buff next time he is up at Bright.

If you still need your hand held, then go with the guiding service that runs from up there, or maybe the newer one that runs from out of Porepunkah.
Jayford4321
7-Dec-2017
7:34:49 AM
Pee , go the Crystal Brook descent as canyon extravalue.
Note; parksvic get offended if you anchor off their foot bridge , or the Guide Annie railings.
Note; water is cold , descent is slippery , and pool at bottom is variable depth , so take care.

Miguel75
7-Dec-2017
6:59:53 PM
On 6-Dec-2017 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 5-Dec-2017 PeeJayDee wrote:
>>Hey, how did your trip go? I'm planning to go to mt buffalo before Christmas
>>and was thinking about descending (I'm a canyoner too) but cannot find
>>much tech info or track notes. Could you give some advice please.
>
>Hey canyoner bro, did you actually read this thread?
>It’s old but the info it contains is still good and you are unlikely to
>find any further tech info or track notes unless you buy the most recent
>Mt Buffalo Climbing Guide, or bribe Miguel75 with a milkshake for his intimate
>knowledge of all things Buff next time he is up at Bright.
>
>If you still need your hand held, then go with the guiding service that
>runs from up there, or maybe the newer one that runs from out of Porepunkah.

Given it’s the Christmas season I’ll help. But, my services will set you back a Salted Caramel thick shake from the Bright Ice cream shop... ;)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8-Dec-2017
10:44:47 AM
On 7-Dec-2017 Miguel75 wrote:
>Given it’s the Christmas season I’ll help. But, my services will set you
>back a Salted Caramel thick shake from the Bright Ice cream shop... ;)

Don’t be bashful* M75.

(*I’m reliably informed that if you want M75 to give out the really good information, then a pair of shoes will do it for you much quicker than a milkshake! This, even though his collection probably rivals that of Imelda Marcos by now! Heh, heh, heh.)
:-)

miguel75
10-Dec-2017
8:26:48 PM
On 8-Dec-2017 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 7-Dec-2017 Miguel75 wrote:
>>Given it’s the Christmas season I’ll help. But, my services will set
>you
>>back a Salted Caramel thick shake from the Bright Ice cream shop... ;)
>
>Don’t be bashful* M75.
>
>(*I’m reliably informed that if you want M75 to give out the really good
>information, then a pair of shoes will do it for you much quicker than
>a milkshake! This, even though his collection probably rivals that of Imelda
>Marcos by now! Heh, heh, heh.)
>:-)

Yeah, shoes'll do it too:) On that note I just found my pair of 5.10 tennies that had been lost for the better part of 1.5 years. Evidently they were in the bucket 'O' shoes in the laundry, which my wife thought were trash...
DMWdesign
24-Feb-2018
2:07:40 PM
Hi gnaguts
re advice to Pee
I am looking at abseiling down Crystal Brook Falls (low water level of course) but not sure if it's possible with 60m ropes and lack of rebelay points
Have you done it?
when you say "go the Crystal Brook descent" do you mean abseil down Crystal Brook Falls?
if so, would you have any info on the route? rope lengths needed, any bolt or natural anchors on the way etc

Also, the footbridge is a long way back from the top of the falls isn't it?

hope you can help

DMW
Jayford4321
25-Feb-2018
6:58:40 PM
On 24-Feb-2018 DMWdesign wrote:
>Hi gnaguts
>re advice to Pee
>I am looking at abseiling down Crystal Brook Falls (low water level of
>course) but not sure if it's possible with 60m ropes and lack of rebelay
>points
>Have you done it?
>when you say "go the Crystal Brook descent" do you mean abseil down Crystal
>Brook Falls?
>if so, would you have any info on the route? rope lengths needed, any
>bolt or natural anchors on the way etc
>
>Also, the footbridge is a long way back from the top of the falls isn't
>it?
>
>hope you can help
>
>DMW

U will be ok if U use a 350 m rope , an wear a helmet , because the trout in the water hurt when they fall on U.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27-Feb-2018
12:24:29 PM
On 24-Feb-2018 DMWdesign wrote:
>I am looking at abseiling down Crystal Brook Falls (low water level of
>course) but not sure if it's possible with 60m ropes and lack of rebelay
>points

I don’t think anyone has abseiled down Crystal Brook Waterfall into the Gorge.
It’s likely possible, but would be an adventurous undertaking requiring an experienced team, good preparation and self reliant rescue skills with appropriate equipment.

I wouldn’t undertake the task without first extensively scoping the proposed route/s, escape options, and taking a minimum of hammer and pitons and possibly a backup hand-drill bolt kit, plus practical experience with knowing how to use them.
Using a 200 m rope would mean only having to find/make two rebelay points if a second set of ropes is taken and the first rope retrieved later...

The pool at the bottom is pretty much unavoidable for such an undertaking, but isn’t that deep on the couple of times I’ve been as close to base of Falls as I could get.


>Also, the footbridge is a long way back from the top of the falls isn't it?

Gnaguts is right about PV wouldn’t allow using their bridge for that purpose anyway.
I’d reckon it too far away myself, but although I’ve not specifically looked for natural anchors closer, my memory of the area leaves me thinking there isn’t much available close to the top of the Falls that is suitably substantial for the purpose, therefore requiring another rope and gear for setting up a top anchor off nearest available natural options.

JamesMc
27-Feb-2018
6:55:35 PM
I think the Bendigo Outdoor Ed people do it at a canyoning trip. You could ask them. Or walk to the bottom and have a good look.

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