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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge South Side Bent's Lookout Area [ Gorge Guide ] 

Topic Date User
Bureaucrat Direct Start? Monday, 31 January 2005 At 10:54:48 AM WM
Message
Anyone know anything about the 2 pitch bolted route which leads up to the undercling traverse on bureaucrat's 4th pitch? It's not in any of the guides/updates, but the bolts look a couple of years old.

It's mostly 10-15m L of Status Quo. Pitch 1 starts about 15m below the start of Status Quo then a hard looking start to move diagonally up L (1 carrot, 2 FH) onto the buttress via some steep dyke moves. Once in the middle of the buttress it goes straight up a groove (2 carrots), then easily slabs up L (1 carrot) to a ledge and double carrot belay 5m R of Bureaucrat. pitch 2 is straight up past 2 carrots then a hard section diagonally R past 2FH, then up past 3 more carrots and a final FH about 12m below Bureaucrat's undercling traverse. Presumably it continues directly up to join Bureaucrat.



 

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