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Crag & Route Beta

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Frankenjura

wombly

11-Sep-2008
6:22:45 PM

I've been blessed with a couple of free days in Germany next week - to be spent somewhere within striking distance of Berlin. The Jura strikes as a fine place to head. Anybody out there have any sagely advice about the best spots to head for a bunch of sub-22 bumblies, or good places to stay?

Dave C

11-Sep-2008
11:00:46 PM

Another possible would be the classic Elbsandstein area in Saxony:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Europe/Germany/13__Sachsen__Saxony_/Elbsandstein/

gfdonc

12-Sep-2008
9:30:33 AM

I just got back from Germany/Austria this week.
My climbing was restricted to the south, but I did post on 'climbing.de' looking for partners (in German) and a guy was keen to spend the day taking me around Elbsandstein which is 200km south of Berlin.
If you're interested I can pass on his email address (and you can see if he speaks English).

Pat

12-Sep-2008
10:18:44 AM

On 11/09/2008 StuckinLara wrote:
>Another possible would be the classic Elbsandstein area in Saxony:
>
>http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Europe/Germany/13__Sachsen__Saxony_/Elbsandstein/
>
>
Hmm, this is the place that bans chalk, wired nuts and cams. How good are you at using knotted slings?

dr_fil_good

12-Sep-2008
10:25:38 AM

Stay at Oma Eichler's campground for Frankenjura. You'll meet people to climb with there for sure. Mrs Eichler doesn't speak much if any English at all but is a soopa-star regardless. You'll need your own wheels tho if you want to do Frankenjura

- hot tip for Oma Eichler's - you buy tokens from Mrs Eichler to make the shower hot ... ;)

gfdonc

12-Sep-2008
11:03:31 AM

It also depends on what you mean by 'striking distance' of Berlin. We drove from Berlin to Munich a couple of weeks ago, passing through the F'jura on the way. Without checking any maps I think you're about 400km away. Mind you, it's all autobahn...

mikl law

15-Sep-2008
8:37:14 AM

Frankenjura is consumer friendly sport climbing. Dresden is fabulous but a bit more "engaging". The harder routes are generaly better protected, the area is beautiful and it is very memorable

martym

19-Aug-2013
5:46:31 AM

We'll (hopefully) be in Frankenjura on Thursday & Friday en route to the Dolomites...
can anyone suggest a crag that:
- has a nice range of 5a to 6c climbing for not-quite-beginners (haven't seen our friends for 2 years, apparently they've learned to climb!..)
- is easy to find & access (I've heard the rumours)
- is toddler friendly (so our 1 year old daughter can play in the forest...)

I know, I know... but after having spent 3 evenings googling-the-shit out of Frankenjura - I just want someone to say: CLIMB AT THIS CRAG...
With something like 700-1400 locations... depending on which website you look at... we'd be happy with just a nice family day out with a few climbs if we're lucky :)

I'm aware of Mrs Eichler, but we'll probably just scoot back across the border to the Czech Republic... Although we're heading to Italy so the further south the better.

Anyone climb Sudgrat in Dohlenfels? Seems like the only low grade Multipitch I could find... though seems you might need suction cups on the glossy limestone.

Bw

19-Aug-2013
7:45:07 AM

Ive climbed at dohlenfels. Not sure on that particular route though. Im a hack and had a fun day there with friends a few years ago, mostly on the subsidiary crags around the back though we climbed one trad line on dohlenfels at the end. Not sure on the name if it though, it was the old school route right up the middle - maybe 18? Good fun but had to rap off half way when it got cold (february).
Having not climbed anywhere else in the (huge) area, id recommend it with that in mind :)

martym

19-Aug-2013
3:13:45 PM

On 19/08/2013 Bw wrote:
>Ive climbed at dohlenfels.

Thanks for the beta - I brought a light rack so trad's fine.
I think Sudgrat is the one those parties are on/heading up:
"Starts on the far right formation, near the signs for the hiking area. Each pitch has a belay bolt. The last pitch is a walk across a ridge. There is gear if you look, but, I did not find a need to place gear on the ridge. There is no anchor at the top of the last pitch"

stretching it here: any idea how long the approach is?
10mins? 30?

Cheers!

simone

19-Aug-2013
3:47:25 PM

On 19/08/2013 martym wrote:
>stretching it here: any idea how long the approach is? 10mins? 30?

Excellent spurt climbers epic mentality exhibited here.

The good Dr

19-Aug-2013
4:29:35 PM

On 19/08/2013 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 19/08/2013 martym wrote:
>>stretching it here: any idea how long the approach is? 10mins? 30?
>
>Excellent spurt climbers epic mentality exhibited here.

Excellent didn't read the post mentallity there. Ah ... 1 year old child ... DUH

bw

19-Aug-2013
6:04:55 PM

On 19/08/2013 martym wrote:
>On 19/08/2013 Bw wrote:
>>Ive climbed at dohlenfels.
>
>Thanks for the beta - I brought a light rack so trad's fine.
>I think Sudgrat is the one those parties are on/heading up:
>"Starts on the far right formation, near the signs for the hiking area.
>Each pitch has a belay bolt. The last pitch is a walk across a ridge. There
>is gear if you look, but, I did not find a need to place gear on the ridge.
>There is no anchor at the top of the last pitch"
>
>stretching it here: any idea how long the approach is?
>10mins? 30?
>
>Cheers!

There is no approach, i think that pic was taken from the carpark! The smaller crags around the back are about 5 mins easy walk. Lots of easy bolted stuff there, guide not really needed on the smaller walls. The main dohlenfels (pictured) is mainly v hard sport. Try the one up the middle, its great fun :)
Sounds like the climb you describe is the ridge to the summit? Looked good, i wouldve liked to try it but we ran outta daylight.
Read more here: http://wouldratherbeskiing.blogspot.com.au/2011/03/frankenjura.html excuse the lameness but its not really for climbers :)

martym

20-Aug-2013
5:55:30 AM

On 19/08/2013 bw wrote:
>There is no approach, i think that pic was taken from the carpark! The
>smaller crags around the back are about 5 mins easy walk. Lots of easy
>bolted stuff there, guide not really needed on the smaller walls. The main
>dohlenfels (pictured) is mainly v hard sport. Try the one up the middle,
>its great fun :)
Looks like we've found our crag - cheers BW!

>Sounds like the climb you describe is the ridge to the summit? Looked
>good, i wouldve liked to try it but we ran outta daylight.
I'll let you know if we get on it.

>Read more here: http://wouldratherbeskiing.blogspot.com.au/2011/03/frankenjura.html
>excuse the lameness but its not really for climbers :)

No lameness - seems like a perfect day trip - bit of climbing followed by German beer - what more could you ask for on a nice spring day?
Thanks heaps mate!

martym

20-Aug-2013
5:59:55 AM

On 19/08/2013 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 19/08/2013 martym wrote:
>>stretching it here: any idea how long the approach is? 10mins? 30?
>
>Excellent spurt climbers epic mentality exhibited here.

My wife just read this over my shoulder and said "why are people nasty to other climbers on Chockstone?"
To which I just laughed a bit.

simone

20-Aug-2013
9:26:28 AM

On 19/08/2013 bw wrote:
>There is no approach, i think that pic was taken from the carpark! The smaller crags around the back are about 5 mins easy walk.

Ah, excellent. Thank goodness for that. Crisis averted.

TgDr, if you have the same problem as Mikl with approach shoes, you too should be happy to climb there now.

marty, tell your wife I'd laugh too, except next thing the spurties would also lament the distance from the carpark to the gym. I suppose I should be grateful that it is such a worry about convenience, given the rate of retrobolting, chipping, tick marks, etc, would also increase if the distances weren't any less epic.

ajfclark

20-Aug-2013
9:46:58 AM

On 20/08/2013 martym wrote:
>My wife just read this over my shoulder and said "why are people nasty to other ~~climbers~~ people on ~~Chockstone~~ The Internet?"

It's a good question.

martym

26-Aug-2013
4:23:52 AM

Thanks for all the advice BeeDub, we had a great time in Frankenjura this last week. We started in the Czech Republic at the Goethe Rocks - quick trip for my friends who had to finish some work first; then went to Steinwald in the North of the Jura; and finally made it to Dohlenfels - didn't get on any other routes than Sudgrat, but that was a great ramble. Bad news is my daughter's become totally dependant on mum, and if she sees her touch a rope she starts crying.. we'll have to do something about that.
Unfortunately we've arrived to rainy Dolomites, but we've got a week so fingers crossed!

To finalise the access issue; here's a pic I took especially - ironically, the route could be classed as mixed (1 to 2 bolts on the easier pitches) so not exactly sport climbing. We met a 73 year old German at the top, he soloed the whole thing in about 15 minutes...

& this is the take away shop with beer & hamburgers for climbers & cyclists:

bw

26-Aug-2013
12:17:40 PM

Good to hear :)
Oh yeah, i maybe shouldve mentioned that the old routes are far from being sport like :D

martym

27-Aug-2013
4:49:42 AM

On 26/08/2013 bw wrote:
>Good to hear :)
>Oh yeah, i maybe shouldve mentioned that the old routes are far from being
>sport like :D

No worries - I read up about Frankenjura, and for anything under grade VI it's recommended to take a light rack!

There are 20 messages in this topic.