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Crag & Route Beta

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More rebolting at Mt Piddington

mikl law

28-Jul-2008
12:39:54 PM

A few more have fallen under the hammer:-
Chicken Hearted (13) has been retro'd with SS carrots (with and without fixed hangers), I was told it was by Harry Luxford (who put the route up in 1966), but this hasn't been confirmed. I saw someone abseilling down it, but don't know what the anchor is at the top.
Bon Voyage is now a nice 21 with 8 U's and a lower-off. Scramble up on the left to a block at 8m (maybe belay from here if you only have a 50m rope). It's about 30m.
The pin at 20m in Psychodrama came out (rusted through) with one hit and has been replaced by a U, also the belay at the top.
Level with this the rap station atop Amen Corner (30m rap) has been beeded up also

Lhotse

28-Jul-2008
12:47:48 PM

thanks mikl.
i've often thought that that pin on psychodrama was close to the end of its life.

ErikaH

28-Jul-2008
1:09:44 PM

Great thanks Mikl. I always hated that weird anchor left from the beginning of time at the top of Amen corner.

mikl law

29-Jul-2008
8:50:27 AM

The angle corroded through about 30mm into the rock. The lost arrow in the forground is from the start of Leif Ericson /Law's Effort and was placed at about the same time (1978)


Pat

29-Jul-2008
10:07:03 AM

Sobering pic Mikl.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

29-Jul-2008
10:44:53 AM

Very sobering.
I have seen older pitons in the 'bungles in much better condition, possibly due a drier environment. It makes me wonder about the condition of ones on the north wall of Buffalo due being a wet environment, even though the external appears OK and they 'ring' when tapped ...

Thanks for posting the pic Mikl.

mikl law

29-Jul-2008
12:03:41 PM

I'll try and take a better pic.
The ones on P1 of "Both Sides of the Glass" all snapped or came out with 1 light hit
Chris Ling has one he broke on Climb X
On the other hand, the one at the start of On Edge was bomber after 30 years still
I believe that the porous sandstone can keep the steel surface wet, while bungles rock (and granite) won't have any water travelling through it

Lhotse

29-Jul-2008
1:05:39 PM

On 29/07/2008 mikl law wrote:"On the other hand, the one at the start of On Edge was bomber after 30 years still"

Hey the new rings on "On Edge" make for a bit more of a wild ride! ;-)))


pmonks

29-Jul-2008
3:36:52 PM

G'day Mike,

When did the pitons on P1 of "On Both Sides of the Glass" get removed? Andrew and I rebolted it (all 3 pitches of the original line) in 2000 or so, and it was all carrots (plus one manky home made hanger on P2) at that point.

Cheers,
Peter

mikl law

29-Jul-2008
4:27:34 PM

1993 I think, I believe that P1 was originally pitons and natural gear for pro. The old guide mnay have more detail on this


IdratherbeclimbingM9

30-Jul-2008
9:33:46 AM

Link to better photo of pitons thread

maxdacat

30-Jul-2008
6:23:09 PM

On 29/07/2008 Lhotse wrote:
>On 29/07/2008 mikl law wrote:"On the other hand, the one at the start of
>On Edge was bomber after 30 years still"
>
>Hey the new rings on "On Edge" make for a bit more of a wild ride! ;-)))

I would have thought the opposite....good to see it has been equipped with "proper" bolts now. Does this mean the tide is turning against carrots in the Bluies? Is it organised equipping or a bunch of ad hoc good sports like Mike?

On that pointI can think of a few i would nominate in the lower grades as well eg Bandoline Grip at Shipley, Set Piece Battle at Boyce.

hipster

30-Jul-2008
6:52:55 PM

On 30/07/2008 maxdacat wrote:
>>On that pointI can think of a few i would nominate in the lower grades
>as well eg Bandoline Grip at Shipley, Set Piece Battle at Boyce.

I'm pretty sure young Grant Colville rebolted Bandoline Grip recently, as well as some other routes on or near the grey slab. He's from Blackheath, 15 years old, and works part time at the local butcher after school. So he saves up all his pennies, buys a new drill, and goes to work rebolting, of all thankless tasks.
Top effort that!
Ado

maxdacat

31-Jul-2008
4:55:36 AM

good for him....i hope he gets the recognition and assistance he deserves.


tnd

31-Jul-2008
8:57:55 AM

On 30/07/2008 hipster wrote:
>On 30/07/2008 maxdacat wrote:
>>>On that pointI can think of a few i would nominate in the lower grades
>>as well eg Bandoline Grip at Shipley, Set Piece Battle at Boyce.
>
>I'm pretty sure young Grant Colville rebolted Bandoline Grip recently,
>as well as some other routes on or near the grey slab. He's from Blackheath,
>15 years old, and works part time at the local butcher after school. So
>he saves up all his pennies, buys a new drill, and goes to work rebolting,
>of all thankless tasks.
>Top effort that!
>Ado

Make sure Grant knows that both Sydney Rockies (http://www.sydneyrockies.org.au/climbing/rebolting/rebolting.html) and climbinganchors.com have funds to pay for rebolting materials.

citationx

31-Jul-2008
10:25:02 AM

On 30/07/2008 hipster wrote:
>On 30/07/2008 maxdacat wrote:
>>>On that pointI can think of a few i would nominate in the lower grades
>>as well eg Bandoline Grip at Shipley, Set Piece Battle at Boyce.
>
>I'm pretty sure young Grant Colville rebolted Bandoline Grip recently,
>as well as some other routes on or near the grey slab. He's from Blackheath,
>15 years old, and works part time at the local butcher after school. So
>he saves up all his pennies, buys a new drill, and goes to work rebolting,
>of all thankless tasks.
>Top effort that!
>Ado

it's the influence of local bolter Mitch that's wearing off on him.

devlin66

31-Jul-2008
12:14:12 PM

Mitch can rub off on anyone, good and bad. :-)

mikepatt

1-Sep-2008
11:20:15 AM

Chicken Hearted now has 7 bolts (some with, so without hangers) and a double u bolt lower off/rap/anchor at the top. It's shrunk over the years and is now 30m, not 42m. The grade of the bolted line is somewhere between 13 and 17/18 and it has a run out section in the middle. I wouldn't recommend it to a grade 13/14 leader.. A cam or two and a sling to tie off the odd chicken head would be good. Of course it would have been a whole lot neckier in the old days but they climbed hard then, didn't they?

mikl law

2-Sep-2008
5:27:30 PM

Do you know who rebolted it?

mikepatt

3-Sep-2008
10:22:17 AM

no. although Harry does have a habit of painting his bolts black.

There are 26 messages in this topic.