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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Mackey's Lookout (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
Noblesse Oblige description and topo
mikl law
28/02/2008
8:08:27 AM
Noblesse Oblige 405m 13
Classic easy slab climbing. Takes a long black streak, so avoid it in rain. Take slings and a light rack, hex’s are useful. Be prepared for 10-15m runouts on easier ground. Drive up about 1 km from Eurobin Falls and the buttress is obvious through the trees, there is a stream and a big white boulder here. Walk up the right ridge of the gully, keeping 60m to the right of the creek to avoid death slab/vegetation and cut across when you are level with the base of the buttress, about 15-20 minutes. The climb takes about 2-3 hours. Start on the right side of the slab, right of a left slanting scrubby crack.

1) 35m 8 Head up right to a short crack with a flake at the top at 10m, then leftwards past another flake then a BR to a bolt and gear belay in a big scoop.
2) 30m 8 Climb up past flakes to 2 BB in a deep bushy scoop
3) 40m 13 Go right up to a poor sling runner, BR, and then past another sling to a bolt and bush belay in a scoop.
4) 40m 12 Up past BR to a dyke at 30m, walk R to a sling and bolt belay.
5) 40m 8 Back left to black streak and up past BR to bollard and bolt belay.
6) 40m 6 Traverse diagonally right past a crack, a thread-able flake and more cracks to a bush in the black streak on the next buttress to the right. Up black streak to bolt belay.
7) 40m 6 Up streak past gear in scoops to bolt belay.
8) 40m 8 Head up slightly rightwards (~ 1 o’clock direction) past bush and up white slab to bolt belay on ledge.
9) & 10) 100m 4 Continue scrambling in this 1 o’clock direction up the buttress to the “Great Walk” track.
Walk 30m right to the road and hitch/drive/cycle back to car.
Mikl Law, Geoff Gledhill Easter 1976, retro-bolted Feb 2008


tnd
28/02/2008
8:55:47 AM
Mike, it should say "retrobolted Feb 2008" above, you've written 2007.
mikl law
28/02/2008
8:57:27 AM
isn't it really 1978 still,

JamesMc
28/02/2008
7:06:12 PM
This is exactly what Mt Buffalo has been missing. Long easy bolted slabs.

Thanks Mike.

JamesMc
jgoding
28/02/2008
10:54:03 PM


PS Better quality version of this topo and other info on this cliff here: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=26&crag_id=415
mikl law
29/02/2008
8:11:07 AM
Thnaks for that Joe, I found shrinking the picture-based topo to 40kb was beyond me. This is based on a shot Joe posted which not only shows the massive water streaks well, but also why you probabaly wouldn't do it in wet weather.

Superstu
1/03/2008
7:44:16 PM
We just did Nob Oblige and it was a great day out. Thanks Mikl !
mikl law
3/03/2008
7:58:15 AM
What do you think the grade of the route overall, pitch grades were,was the protection ok portection, and how long did it take? mikl

climbau
3/03/2008
9:18:36 AM
On 3/03/2008 mikl law wrote:
>What do you think the grade of the route overall, pitch grades were,was
>the protection ok portection, and how long did it take? mikl
Route Grade = 12/13
Pitch Grades = top 2/3 pitches significantly easier than the rest. Couldn't put a grade. It had a puff factor of 4 out of 5 from virtually running up those last few pitches.
Protection= excellent. If you don't like single bolt belays, incorporate the available bollards/bushes (as we did)
Time to complete route = 2h50mins
Time to locate route= 30/40mins (never been there before)


IdratherbeclimbingM9
21/04/2008
5:22:23 PM
X-Link to a Chockstone Trip Report thread containing further information regarding this climb

Link to poll concerning the grade of this climb.

evanbb
20/10/2010
10:15:04 AM
Which direction does this buttress face?

Heading from The Blueys to Melbourne (for the Ferry) between Xmas and New Years, and have a few days slack in our program. Considering summer climbing options and not coming up with many options.
dalai
20/10/2010
10:16:45 AM
North...
gfdonc
20/10/2010
10:34:07 AM
Funny, I found pitch 6 to be one of the harder pitches, and also with no gear. Must have picked a more interesting line?
kieranl
20/10/2010
10:55:43 AM
On 20/10/2010 dalai wrote:
>North...
? I would say East (ish).

ajfclark
20/10/2010
11:09:15 AM
Lake Catani camp sites are mostly booked from Christmas to Australia Day and you have to book 7 days Saturday to Saturday during this peak period. $157/pw or so. http://www.parkstay.vic.gov.au/

ajfclark
20/10/2010
11:14:21 AM
On 20/10/2010 kieranl wrote:
>On 20/10/2010 dalai wrote:
>>North...
>? I would say East (ish).

http://maps.google.com.au/maps?q=-36.710265,146.82818

Water streaks indicate the slope. Downhill is towards the top right.

evanbb
20/10/2010
11:19:14 AM
Well played.

The answer then is 'it will be hot as buggery'.

egosan
20/10/2010
11:37:43 AM
On 20/10/2010 evanbb wrote:
>Well played.
>
>The answer then is 'it will be hot as buggery'.
>
>

It snowed on last years Australia Day trip. There were some warm days to. Never did it peak into "Hot as Buggery."

IdratherbeclimbingM9
21/10/2010
12:30:50 PM
On 20/10/2010 evanbb wrote:
>Well played.
>
>The answer then is 'it will be hot as buggery'.
>
Hmm.
Goodhevansbb! ItisaSLABmate,whatevansareyouthinking?
?
~> regardless of the weather, yes, I think you will find it hot as buggery*!
Heh, heh, heh
(* Based on a bouldering trip to Black Range that we did once, where he trounced me on anything resembling overhanging! ☺)

evanbb
21/10/2010
12:53:54 PM
On 21/10/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Goodhevansbb! ItisaSLABmate,whatevansareyouthinking?

Nah, I'm way in control of my slab-running now after doing the Hazards Traverse in Freycinet. Goodness there were some 'runouts' up there. Volleys are surprisingly good slab shoes.

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There are 24 messages in this topic.

 

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