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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo Mackey's Lookout (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Noblesse Oblige description and topo
mikl law
8:08:27 AM
Noblesse Oblige 405m 13
Classic easy slab climbing. Takes a long black streak, so avoid it in rain. Take slings and a light rack, hex’s are useful. Be prepared for 10-15m runouts on easier ground. Drive up about 1 km from Eurobin Falls and the buttress is obvious through the trees, there is a stream and a big white boulder here. Walk up the right ridge of the gully, keeping 60m to the right of the creek to avoid death slab/vegetation and cut across when you are level with the base of the buttress, about 15-20 minutes. The climb takes about 2-3 hours. Start on the right side of the slab, right of a left slanting scrubby crack.

1) 35m 8 Head up right to a short crack with a flake at the top at 10m, then leftwards past another flake then a BR to a bolt and gear belay in a big scoop.
2) 30m 8 Climb up past flakes to 2 BB in a deep bushy scoop
3) 40m 13 Go right up to a poor sling runner, BR, and then past another sling to a bolt and bush belay in a scoop.
4) 40m 12 Up past BR to a dyke at 30m, walk R to a sling and bolt belay.
5) 40m 8 Back left to black streak and up past BR to bollard and bolt belay.
6) 40m 6 Traverse diagonally right past a crack, a thread-able flake and more cracks to a bush in the black streak on the next buttress to the right. Up black streak to bolt belay.
7) 40m 6 Up streak past gear in scoops to bolt belay.
8) 40m 8 Head up slightly rightwards (~ 1 o’clock direction) past bush and up white slab to bolt belay on ledge.
9) & 10) 100m 4 Continue scrambling in this 1 o’clock direction up the buttress to the “Great Walk” track.
Walk 30m right to the road and hitch/drive/cycle back to car.
Mikl Law, Geoff Gledhill Easter 1976, retro-bolted Feb 2008

8:55:47 AM
Mike, it should say "retrobolted Feb 2008" above, you've written 2007.
mikl law
8:57:27 AM
isn't it really 1978 still,

7:06:12 PM
This is exactly what Mt Buffalo has been missing. Long easy bolted slabs.

Thanks Mike.

10:54:03 PM

PS Better quality version of this topo and other info on this cliff here:
mikl law
8:11:07 AM
Thnaks for that Joe, I found shrinking the picture-based topo to 40kb was beyond me. This is based on a shot Joe posted which not only shows the massive water streaks well, but also why you probabaly wouldn't do it in wet weather.

7:44:16 PM
We just did Nob Oblige and it was a great day out. Thanks Mikl !
mikl law
7:58:15 AM
What do you think the grade of the route overall, pitch grades were,was the protection ok portection, and how long did it take? mikl

9:18:36 AM
On 3/03/2008 mikl law wrote:
>What do you think the grade of the route overall, pitch grades were,was
>the protection ok portection, and how long did it take? mikl
Route Grade = 12/13
Pitch Grades = top 2/3 pitches significantly easier than the rest. Couldn't put a grade. It had a puff factor of 4 out of 5 from virtually running up those last few pitches.
Protection= excellent. If you don't like single bolt belays, incorporate the available bollards/bushes (as we did)
Time to complete route = 2h50mins
Time to locate route= 30/40mins (never been there before)

5:22:23 PM
X-Link to a Chockstone Trip Report thread containing further information regarding this climb

Link to poll concerning the grade of this climb.

10:15:04 AM
Which direction does this buttress face?

Heading from The Blueys to Melbourne (for the Ferry) between Xmas and New Years, and have a few days slack in our program. Considering summer climbing options and not coming up with many options.
10:16:45 AM
10:34:07 AM
Funny, I found pitch 6 to be one of the harder pitches, and also with no gear. Must have picked a more interesting line?
10:55:43 AM
On 20/10/2010 dalai wrote:
? I would say East (ish).

11:09:15 AM
Lake Catani camp sites are mostly booked from Christmas to Australia Day and you have to book 7 days Saturday to Saturday during this peak period. $157/pw or so.

11:14:21 AM
On 20/10/2010 kieranl wrote:
>On 20/10/2010 dalai wrote:
>? I would say East (ish).,146.82818

Water streaks indicate the slope. Downhill is towards the top right.

11:19:14 AM
Well played.

The answer then is 'it will be hot as buggery'.

11:37:43 AM
On 20/10/2010 evanbb wrote:
>Well played.
>The answer then is 'it will be hot as buggery'.

It snowed on last years Australia Day trip. There were some warm days to. Never did it peak into "Hot as Buggery."

12:30:50 PM
On 20/10/2010 evanbb wrote:
>Well played.
>The answer then is 'it will be hot as buggery'.
Goodhevansbb! ItisaSLABmate,whatevansareyouthinking?
~> regardless of the weather, yes, I think you will find it hot as buggery*!
Heh, heh, heh
(* Based on a bouldering trip to Black Range that we did once, where he trounced me on anything resembling overhanging! ☺)

12:53:54 PM
On 21/10/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Goodhevansbb! ItisaSLABmate,whatevansareyouthinking?

Nah, I'm way in control of my slab-running now after doing the Hazards Traverse in Freycinet. Goodness there were some 'runouts' up there. Volleys are surprisingly good slab shoes.

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