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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Central Mt Rosea (General) [ Rosea Guide | Images ] 

Author
What the hell did we do....

GG
22/11/2004
9:14:07 AM
I hope we are not the only suckers who did this...Jevon and I mistook the D for Debutante and ended up on Diane (18)....Traversed right passed piton with tatt on Hard times (19) but then up and left for 10m to small triangular ledge...from there we went up to Cave with loose rocks inside...then up on the left wall of dripping waterfall...at maybe 19/20....40/45m.

Awesome Line! Anyone know if this is an established route???

shaggy
22/11/2004
11:22:27 AM
The line you took probably wasn't any scarier than debutant, never understood why it gets 3 stars, so much loose rock, very sandbagged, ahhh. I would've felt more secure on a clean 19. But don't dont know the line you did tho.

shiltz
22/11/2004
12:42:46 PM
It sounds similar to my attempt to climb Hard Times last year with visiting German Michael S. We did the harder variant of the first two pitches and then got lost on the later pitches. Finished through sandy nonsense into a cave which we then had to traverse out the left side of to top out on some vegetated rubbish. Excellent fun!

master of drung
22/11/2004
1:19:35 PM
i have done a very similar route to this also getting my d's confused it wasn't wet and i'm not sure about the last pitch but up to the cave with loose rock's it sounds very familiar. i also remember a steep corner with a hand crack somewhere towards the top. my second still claims that it was the hardest and scariest thing he has ever climbed.
i agree awsome line. strongly suspect it would have been climbed previously either by others making the same mistake or deliberately because it struck me as a reasonably logical line. i assume you have "selected climbs" like me and i think i could pick most of it as parts of other climbs given the wonderful benefit of hindsight. if you could find a comprehensive guide i reckon there would be a fair chance it would be in there.

GG
22/11/2004
1:36:12 PM
Shiltz....definately sounds right...Up to cave with loose rock...then up the left hand side of the cave (cos its blank face directly above cave)...Up left hand side of dripping/wet rock...onto sandy stuff...

shiltz
22/11/2004
2:53:00 PM
I did a strange finish to Diane as well when I did it first years back. I ran pitch 2 & 3 together and then followed the instructions for pitch 3 when I was setting out on pitch 4. So I went right instead of left and climbed through some very difficult territory with marginal pro. Couldn't find it in the SE Gramps guide book but didn't think it was really worth writing up. I think its all part of the fun of climbing at Rosea.

Rupert
22/11/2004
8:59:16 PM
yeah we climbed hard times a number of years back and got totally lost. The first (on route) bit was good though!
mikl law
23/11/2004
1:09:27 AM
D for debutante and Diane

A guy read the old Mt Vic guide and mistook AC for Amen corner (offwidth 19) and Angular Crack (10), both routes are described as a wide crack with a black wall on the right (Tombstone wall, Minatour) and an orange wall on the left (Graveyard wall, Janicepts). The guy took a grounder from half height and was carried out
kieranl
23/11/2004
10:43:25 PM
That all sounds like the top of Hard Times or something fairly close to it. Can't remember too much about it - it was dry when we did it so the waterfall bit doesn't help and I don't remember a cave but the general directions put you in the right area.
There's about 3 finishes written up right of the top of Heretic, Ashes to Ashes, a direct finish to Hard Times and Hard Times itself and there are a couple of other possibilities I think. A bit hard to sort out without a good photo.
Anyway, hard, scarey and funky is about it for that top section of cliff - full value.

Hardware
25/11/2004
9:33:36 AM
It was great value! This climb had everything, sandy slopers, loose chockstones, caves, slabs, corner cracks, sketchy traverses.
Had bugger all gear on me and very little pro in by the time I reached the top of the last pitch with a run out of est. 8m But im sure the number will grow if you ask me in a years time.



Jevon.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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