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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo The Horn Environs (General) Dreamworld [ Horn Guide ] 

Author
Hairline Fracture?
singersmith
24/01/2008
12:45:24 PM
Sometime after Christmas I did this sweet boulder problem/solo in the Dreamworld area. I think it is
right near the base of Gondawandaland. All told it's about 20 meters of climbing and heaps of fun.
"Sit" start from way back under the boulder, about 10 meters out to the flare/chimney section then a
little grunt to get into the chimney and solo to the top. She's probably in the range of grade 22-24.
Does anyone know if it's an FA or has this thing has been climbed before? Mt. Buffalo is in need of an
offwidth renaissance, any takers?







qman
24/01/2008
1:01:37 PM
looks hideous!!

well done
devlin66
24/01/2008
2:14:21 PM
nice grovel and good vision......... in the dark down the back!

nmonteith
24/01/2008
2:38:28 PM
There are plenty more sit starts to do on evil offwidths at Buffalo. I look forward to seeing more photos of these!
Wendy
24/01/2008
7:11:48 PM
I think for 20m, I might get the rope out. However, it's nice to see a fellow maniac in granite offwidths in slippers. I did a much maligned little number up at the Horn called Yuk at NYs. If you ignore the derogatory name and description and just go look at it, it's a great line. OK, so it is a little grotty, but with a bit of traffic it'll be heaps better. It looks like you might be one of the people for the job.


shiltz
25/01/2008
7:54:57 AM
We were climbing at Dreamworld before Xmas. I think there is plenty of bouldering potential there. I did a few things around near the far end of the Strathbogie crack. There were some obvious problems that were too hard for me that day. These weren't offwidth cracks though. Nice work. Reminiscent of some of the obscurist routes on "First Ascent".

tmarsh
25/01/2008
9:16:25 AM
I'm torn between admiration for people like Singersmith and Wendy and utter horror that anyone's life could be so miserable that thrutching up granite offwidths could seem a better alternative than say, chewing your arm off. On balance I'm coming down on the side of admiration, but it's a fine line you're treading here people. What you call a 'striking line', others might see as 'recurrent and persistent efforts at self harm'.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/01/2008
9:17:05 AM
I am impressed with the hitherto 'underground' development of the tor offwidths happening up there.
Good work singersmith, Wendy, shiltz, et al?

That whole plateau has a lifetimes worth of potential development in that theme.

On most days one can look out over fields of boulders, let the eye dwell on the larger magnets, and wonder of their potential; but on certain days when the air seems fresher and the early morning or late evening light picks out the blades of rock and 'hidden' tors, it is then that you realise just how much potential is there and ones sense of exploration is energised anew.

tmarsh
25/01/2008
9:37:34 AM
On 25/01/2008 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On most days one can look out over fields of boulders, let the eye dwell
>on the larger magnets, and wonder of their potential; but on certain days
>when the air seems fresher and the early morning or late evening light
>picks out the blades of rock and 'hidden' tors, it is then that you realise
>just how much potential is there and ones sense of exploration is energised
>anew.

Wow... just for a minute I was transported by the beauty of your vision, M9. But then I realised that you were actually talking about a plateau littered by lumps of granite. Anyone would think they were nuggets of gold the way you talk them up.
qman
25/01/2008
9:41:41 AM
As far as i am concerned off widths are OFF for a reason and not ON.

Happy to stick to on width climbing.

but all power to you.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/01/2008
10:10:54 AM
On 25/01/2008 tmarsh wrote:
>Wow... just for a minute I was transported by the beauty of your vision,
>M9. But then I realised that you were actually talking about a plateau
>littered by lumps of granite. Anyone would think they were nuggets of gold
>the way you talk them up.

Bah, humbug?; ... or
Consistency conshmistency

~> ... but Christmas has been gone a month (exactly) now tmarsh!

Heh, heh, heh.

:)
:)

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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