Crag & Route Beta

Author	ACA Guide Vic updates
WM 3-Jan-2008 8:41:29 AM	Following on from the Hollow Mountain Guide, the ACA pages for Stapylton Amphitheatre are now nearing completion. All crags, routes and boulder problems in the Amphitheatre are now described and there are comprehensive topos for most crags and boulders including Taipan, Northern Walls, Central Buttress, Grey/Green Walls, Windjammer, Epsilon, Plaza Strip, Clicke, Kindergarten, Bellerophon, Afterglow, etc Feedback/corrections appreciated. (edit: thread now retitled from "ACA Amphitheatre Guide nearing completion")
MrKyle 6-Jan-2008 12:56:46 PM	Looking great Will. A top job! Kyle.
nmonteith 29-Jan-2008 2:18:39 PM	RE: Let X=X Area, Epsilon Wall http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=223 I repeated Kierans new route Walking and Falling (23) on the weekend. Really nice fun climbing - but i thought it either needs another bolt or mention of small cam placements before the first bolt. I cartwheeled off the opening moves when i got too high and decked out pretty hard. I then got some cams from my bag and protected it nicely. Great moves and stellar incuts up high! It is also VERY shady for 90% of the day.
duglash 29-Jan-2008 3:15:04 PM	you really should do more of placing the gear before you fall off, rather than afterwards..
nmonteith 29-Jan-2008 3:29:43 PM	I was just following the guidebook which said it was a sport route!
kieranl 29-Jan-2008 5:15:42 PM	On 29/01/2008 nmonteith wrote: >I repeated Kierans new route Walking and Falling (23) on the weekend. >Really nice fun climbing - but i thought it either needs another bolt or >mention of small cam placements before the first bolt. I cartwheeled off >the opening moves when i got too high and decked out pretty hard. I then >got some cams from my bag and protected it nicely. Great moves and stellar >incuts up high! It is also VERY shady for 90% of the day. I initially tried it placing cams but found it made things too complicated. Instead of just cruising left at a reasonable bouldering height (feet about shoulder height) I was stuffing around placing gear which quickly became ineffectual as you swung left. Also if you were doing it on a single rope those cams would have to be bombproof directionals so that you don't face a groundfall if they pull. The landing is good and the holds secure so I don't really think anything is necessary. With a few more ascents the holds will become more obvious too. Maybe the description needs a note to warn people not to go high while doing the traverse. I'll have a think about it tonight. Did you look at the middle of the wall above the traverse Neil?
nmonteith 29-Jan-2008 5:29:28 PM	On 29/01/2008 kieranl wrote: >Also if you were doing it on a single rope >those cams would have to be bombproof directionals so that you don't face >a groundfall if they pull. I didn't think about that. You're very right! Luckily i got it clean so i never tested the cams i placed. Probably another good reason to make it a bolt. The friend who i was with wasn't happy doing it without the cams either. >Maybe the description needs a note to warn people not to go high while >doing the traverse. I'll have a think about it tonight. Yere, i think a warning would be a good idea. >Did you look at the middle of the wall above the traverse Neil? No. I couldn't even see the bolts up high on the 22. I repeated a few of your other routes as well, Genuine Wage Overhang (no big-bros required) and the very nice Bird of Prey @ Summerday. Missing was also in the equation for a few of my mates that day.
WM 22-Dec-2008 4:23:32 PM	Since the previous announcements of the Hollow Mtn and Amphitheatre guides on ACA, a lot more has been added in Vic. The ACA site is good at publicising route additions but not so good at publicising new topos so I thought I’d list the new topos here, so those interested can take a squizz. Any feedback much appreciated. Arapiles > Colosseum area > Colosseum Wall, Comic Strip Wall Arapiles > King rat area > overview, King Rat central buttress, skydiver wall R side, lizard procrastination Arapiles > Atridae > House of Atreus, Muldoon Wall, Collision Course Wall, Agamemnon Buttress Arapiles > organ pipes gully > finger prince area, lemmington face Arapiles > Organ Pipes > D Minor back side, D Minor front side, Organ Pipes centre, Alchyne Wall (Kieran's topo but touched up by me) Arapiles > Central Gully L > Brick Wall, golden fleece wall Arapiles > Central Gully R side > Wind Wall Arapiles > Fang area > plaque Arapiles > Pharos area > Death Row Pinnacle, Uncle Charlie front, Spasm Chasm, ethereal buttress Grampians > North > Amphitheatre > Kindergarten > kindergarten R side Grampians > North > Amphitheatre > Epsilon Wall > leftside, rightside & bouldering overview done with better front-on shots taken from the toilet seat Grampians > North > Amphitheatre > Central Buttress > Missing Alcove re-done using much better photo angle - its a vast improvement! Grampians > North > Amphitheatre > Taipan Wall > Topo VIII re-done using a better photo angle, + corrections to Topos II, V and VII. Grampians > North > Amphitheatre > Spurt Wall > 5 detail topos Grampians > North > Amphitheatre > Lower Taipan > R side topo updated for new routes Grampians > North > Amphitheatre > Reprisal Wall > overview Grampians > North > Summerday Valley > Wall of Fools left side, Wall of fools right side, Back Wall, Main Wall, Bowler Boulder, Calcutti Crag, Left Wall, Tunnel Cliff overview, Flying Blind, BARC Grampians > North > Hollow Mtn > Van Dieman’s Land > Beaver Wall right side Grampians > Vic Range > High Tops > Millennium > 2nd tier topos updated following corrections (thanks guys) Buffalo > North Wall > Fuhrer buttress overview, fuhrer buttress lower, fuhrer buttress upper, Ozy buttress overview, Ozy buttress lower, Ozy buttress upper SW Vic > Werribee Gorge > left side, centre NW Vic > Camels Hump > 3 topos of Omega Block NW Vic > Ben Nevis overview Sydney > narrabeen steep side > 7 topos
WM 10-Mar-2009 1:38:59 PM	>On 29/01/2008 nmonteith wrote: >>I repeated Kierans new route Walking and Falling (23) on the weekend. >>Really nice fun climbing - but i thought it either needs another bolt or >>mention of small cam placements before the first bolt. On 29/01/2008 kieranl wrote: >The landing is good and the holds secure so I don't really think anything >is necessary. WaF got a few more repeats yesterday and I'd agree with Kieran, the route is fine as is (although the 2nd bolt seems pretty old?). I'd also mention that stick clipping the first bolt is very easy and eliminates the whole problem (provided the belayer stands out of the pendulum path). >>Great moves and stellar incuts up high! It is also VERY shady for 90% of the day. fully agreed - 1 star minimum and probably the best arvo shade option in the amphitheatre
phil_nev 10-Mar-2009 3:53:20 PM	Will be even better after some more traffic to clean up the sandy rock in places.
kieranl 10-Mar-2009 5:24:26 PM	Second and fourth bolts on Walking and Falling are non-stainless dynabolts from my first attempt on the route about 15+ years ago. Was going to be a 2 bolt route! They would still be quite safe but they need replacing in the long term. I haven't tried to replace them yet because I would like to do it with minimum rock damage. When NS dynabolts are new I've found it fairly easy to drag the sleeves out with pliers but after a few years the sleeves corrode slightly and don't come out easily. If anyone has some suggestions, I'd be happy to hear them. One option that I've thought of is to drill a short hole either side of the shaft to give the pliers a better grip on the shaft and then use the additional holes to countersink a ring. Would that work or would it just create a godawful mess?
kieranl 26-Mar-2009 11:25:09 PM	Arapiles - Campbells Kingdom is now pretty complete. There's more work to do on topos etc but hopefully it will entice a few people to that area over Easter.
nmonteith 27-Mar-2009 8:28:12 AM	On 10/03/2009 kieranl wrote: >One option that I've thought of is to drill a short hole either side of >the shaft to give the pliers a better grip on the shaft and then use the >additional holes to countersink a ring. Would that work or would it just >create a godawful mess? I've done that before - it can work but you do have to drill quite hefty holes to get the really good purchase with the pliers. Sometimes the sleeve comes out in parts. Bring a set of good needle nose pliers as well.
devlin66 27-Mar-2009 9:49:18 AM	A normal drill bit the same size as the OD of the sleeve should work. After a while I imagine the bit will jam in the sleeve and start spinning the sleeve. Should be easy to pull it out after that. If it doesn't spin just keep drilling till all of the sleeve is gone. Clean out the hole and install new anchor.
nmonteith 27-Mar-2009 10:08:22 AM	On 27/03/2009 devlin66 wrote: >A normal drill bit the same size as the OD of the sleeve should work. After >a while I imagine the bit will jam in the sleeve and start spinning the >sleeve. Should be easy to pull it out after that. If it doesn't spin just >keep drilling till all of the sleeve is gone. Clean out the hole and install >new anchor. ? Would you drill straight into the 10mm metal bolt? That's a recipe for destroying several good drill bits probably. You can't remove the bolt before you remove the sleeve with normal dynabolts.
kieranl 10-May-2009 1:20:40 PM	Arapiles : Detailed topos now up for Cyclops Eye, Deep South and Pop Wall (that was one everyone was waiting for). There' s a long-view topo for Possum Rocks. This needs some closeup topos.
WM 17-Jun-2009 1:54:56 PM	Hey Kieran, I just saw your topos, they are looking good!! the drunk fly has sobered up. I've also done the following new and updated topos: Grampians - north taipan topo III spurt wall x2 missing alcove x2 (updated for an excellent new route ... if I do say so myself) van dieman's - beaver wall Grampians - Vic Range millennium x3 Araps Dec Crag x5 colosseum wall x2 the thimble comic strip wall bushranger bluff Araps King Rat Gully areas cobwebs gully kryptonite cliff pilot error ledge x2 Araps - Atridae lois lane wall x2 cassandra face flight deck Araps Central Gully left Stoat Wall Pebbles & Bam Bam area Wailing Wall Dog Wall x2 lemming wall x2 shattered buttress charity buttress x2 deep freeze wall Araps central gully right mari buttress x2 reaper buttress x2 preludes wall Araps fang buttress x2 Araps - Bluff Major north face and last and least: Ben Cairn x3
jgoding 17-Jun-2009 4:53:24 PM	And (Northern Grampians) the Sun Deck / Wave Wall has been updated too, to include a sneak peak of what the aerial photos in the new "Best of Vic" guide will look like, and how they will add value to find these areas! Great stuff Will & Kieran!
kieranl 5-Jul-2009 11:26:46 PM	At Summer Day Valley, sorted out Tunnel Cliff and added topo for the good climbs.
kieranl 27-Jul-2009 10:18:20 PM	Arapiles - Routes on Left Watchtower face are in. No topos yet.

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