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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Northern	Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre	Taipan Wall	[ Taipan Images ]

Author

Rap anchors on Taipan


Organ Pipe

18-Sep-2007
7:07:40 PM

Just curious about rap anchors along the top of Taipan wall, and distances from them to ground (as in are there any 2 x 50m rope opportunities, or will I need 2 x 60m).

I'm after a nice arvo rap off Seventh Pillar, although I assume that this part of the wall is too high for 2 x 60's.

Appreciate any usefull beta to save me from a big walk off : )

Thanks, Ben.


Edward Sillypants

18-Sep-2007
7:15:13 PM

Ummm, my understanding is that you run out the top half of the last pitch on Typan, so you can leap off and power plummet back to the previous belay zone , there by saving at least one abseil ...


Organ Pipe

18-Sep-2007
7:18:59 PM

Welcome back and goodbye.


Edward Sillypants

18-Sep-2007
7:28:38 PM

>Appreciate any usefull beta to save me from a big walk off : )

OK ... then ...a course in base-jumping might beta what ur looking for , yeah ?

Hope this helps ;-)


muki

18-Sep-2007
7:32:42 PM

G,day Ben, you can walk left (faceing the cliff) to one of three rap anchors, personally I have always
used the ones above Clean Sweep, but only cos It's a single rap, the other closer stations might need to
hit a station midway down the wall, they are above The great Devide and another above father Oblivion.


Edward Sillypants

18-Sep-2007
7:44:01 PM

HA HA !!! :D

CHECK THIS BLOKE OUT !!! :D


Organ Pipe

18-Sep-2007
9:30:14 PM

Awesome, thanks Bomber. I'll head for Clean Sweep. Will I be right with twin 50's?


muki

18-Sep-2007
10:14:41 PM

Yeah, double 50's are fine, but if you are thinking of doing the 7th then take at least 3 # 1 RP's for the aid
out the roof flake after the second belay! crucial gear as everything else is too big, that and plenty of
slings to leave on the bolts for your second and you to aid through on! no other gear essential, maybe
some bigger cams for the horizontal pitch might be nice, but not crucial. have a good one this is a really
fun day out. BP

gfdonc

19-Sep-2007
9:40:58 AM

Don't recall many 1RPs on that section, but the crack swallowed some #2s.


Organ Pipe

19-Sep-2007
10:21:51 AM

I've got 3 x each size from 3 to 10, but only 1 x size 1 and 1 x size 2, so maybe a trip to Little Bourke at lunch is in order (always love an excuse to go and shop for gear).

kieranl

19-Sep-2007
8:05:39 PM

On 19/09/2007 gfdonc wrote:
>Don't recall many 1RPs on that section, but the crack swallowed some #2s.
>
It's an expanding flake. Do it when it's cold and it might take the #2 RPs rather than the #1s


Edward Sillypants

19-Sep-2007
8:25:34 PM

interesting ... you sure you got that around the right way ?

kieranl

19-Sep-2007
8:30:28 PM

Yes.


Edward Sillypants

19-Sep-2007
8:35:22 PM

OK:-)

Thanks BIG K !!

u no I respect your ... ummm ......................................... anyway ... THANKS !!!


Chuck Norris

19-Sep-2007
11:05:09 PM

On 19/09/2007 kieranl wrote:
>On 19/09/2007 gfdonc wrote:
>>Don't recall many 1RPs on that section, but the crack swallowed some
>#2s.
>>
>It's an expanding flake. Do it when it's cold and it might take the #2
>RPs rather than the #1s

at the risk of disrupting this hijacked thread with a serious question...is that a water thing?

kieranl

19-Sep-2007
11:44:40 PM

Thermal. Rock expands when hot, contracts when cold. Maybe my conclusion is wrong but my experience is that gear jammed in a flake on a hot afternoon usually pulls out easily in the cool of the morning. And the flakes on Seventh Pillar move. Almost thirty years ago I recovered a hex that had been squashed and then dropped out of Seventh Pillar. So, I'd do prefer to do Seventh Pillar in cool weather.
But I'm quite happy for someone to tell me why I'm wrong with my theory.


muki

19-Sep-2007
11:48:33 PM

Thats right, when I did the 7th it was a hot day and we did the climb in full sun, hence #1 RP's

kieranl

19-Sep-2007
11:52:33 PM

**Snap** thanks Bomber

james

20-Sep-2007
12:34:14 AM

it was pretty cold when I did it & I remember using both #1 & #2 RPs. I'd say take a couple #1 regardless, they don't weigh much.


Organ Pipe

20-Sep-2007
9:22:43 AM

I picked up an additional number 1 and number 2 yesterday at lunch.
Hopefully this'll be enough.

There are 41 messages in this topic.