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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Guides updates Muline, Red Rocks, Ruined Castle

6:30:54 PM
They are at Ruined Castle.... (near Tortoise Wall in southern vic ranges)

12:40:41 PM
New routes at Red Rocks, Victoria Ranges, Grampians
All routes have been added to the online guide at:

* Chrysalis 20m 27 (sport)
Rising technical traverse and crimpy face out left from Fat Fingered Freak on back side of
Southern Pinnacle. Start as for FFF and climb it to the 2nd bolt. Head hard left on shallow slots to big
break. Shake, then crimp like a fiend to next big break. Finish up further thin exciting stuff to lower-off.
6 rings all-together. 4th bolt is hard to clip without extension.
FFA Neil Monteith - 13-10-2007

** Insha'Allah 15m 27 (sport)
Long admired – God willing it’s now been climbed! The u-bolted flared shiny orange crack on the east
face of the Northern Pinnacle about 5m right of Hamstrung. Brutal fingerlocks to start then up short
reachy corner. Campus right along slick break to final crimpy face finish. Sustained. 6 bolts and lower-
FFA Adam Demmert - 13-10-2007

* Bikini Bootcamp 10m 20 (sport)
A good warm-up route or worthwhile in its own right. Starts just right of descent gully for the Back Wall
routes (about 10m right of Height of Darkness) at small pillar. Undercut start then balancy arete to
finish. Four RBs and lower-off.
FFA Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert - 01-09-2007

Two Weeks to a Beach Body 11m 22 (sport)
Intense plaything. Starts 1m right of Bikini Bootcamp. Bouldery start up undercut block (RB) then span
right (RB) to buckets. Up juggy wall above (RB) to anchors of Bikini Bootcamp. Finish is runout but
FFA Neil Monteith - 07-10-2007

Espanol Pinnacle
This little pinnacle sits 50m left of the access track as you walk into the Red Rock Pinnacles. You can
see it through the trees to the left when you walk right past Pellant Pinnacle (the small west facing
orange cliff with the crappy FHs).

The first route was added here in 2002 by Marcel Geelen. Three further routes were added in early
October 2007 by Neil Monteith. All route are listed here as the original description for Marcel’s route
was quite wrong in height and grade.

No Habla Espanol 14m 16 (trad)
On the South East face of the pinnacle is a bottomless wide crack. Up crack (crux) on good gear then
head left up rampy corner. Finish up vertical crack on jugs. Rap from bolt anchors above Je Ne Parle
Pas Francais.
FFA Marcel Geelen & Jac Cutter - 13-10-2002

Je Ne Parle Pas Français 14m 23 (sport)
Technical slabby crimpers. Starts 3m left of No Habla Espanol.
Fingery vertical start up subtle left facing corner, desperate middle and easy finale. Four FH's and
optional hand sized cam for the easy juggy finish.
FFA Neil Monteith - 06-10-2007

Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches 10m 19 (trad)
Short steep crack. On the north side of the pillar are two right leading lines. This one climbs the right
one. When the crack runs out reach up to horizonal, then step right and up juggy groove to top. Rap off
anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais. Protects with good medium wires and fist sized cams.
FFA Neil Monteith - 07-10-2007

* Non Parlo Italiano 10m 23 (mixed)
Short intense fun on great quality rock. Starts 3m left of Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches, just left of
small tree. Up right on jugs to break, boulder out left over bulge (RB) to seams. Whack in some trad
gear and up wall above to final reachy pull to summit jugs and rap rings.
FFA Neil Monteith - 07-10-2007

12:05:34 AM
Ruined Castle is now on the ACA website. Might add a few more topos in the next few days...
Good place to go at this time of year. Breezy and shady until 3pm.
4:44:34 PM
Chrysalis is just so good

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There are 44 messages in this topic.


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