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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 54
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Southwest You Yangs Stockyards Car Park (General) [ You Yangs Guide | Images ] 

Author
Pain and Frequency (28) @ Northern Outcrop

nmonteith
10/08/2004
11:03:21 AM
Mike Law's classic looking 90 degree granite arete 'Pain and Frequency' (28) has recently been re-bolted. Has anyone repeated this route since its first ascent in the 1980's? It looks very sustained and technical. If you have fingers of steel and the balance of a cat then this could be the route for you!
joemor
10/08/2004
12:02:44 PM
originally 23 now 28.....

IdratherbeclimbingM9
10/08/2004
12:29:39 PM
On 10/08/2004 joemor wrote:
>originally 23 now 28.....
Mikl sandbag at its best?
He has been known to say regarding grading a climb, (words to the effect of);
'the lowest number you can give it without bursting into laughter' ...

nmonteith
10/08/2004
12:33:06 PM
On 10/08/2004 joemor wrote:
>originally 23 now 28.....

... and looks like 32+
Joe
10/08/2004
4:14:21 PM
got any photos?

nmonteith
10/08/2004
4:25:50 PM
nope. sorry...

Mental picture - clean vertical arete with stainless steel U every 3m or so.

Hawkman
10/08/2004
4:30:00 PM
sounds like Danny Ng has rubbed off on Mikl to.

alrob
10/08/2004
7:35:08 PM
i was out there today with douglas and we played around on it on top rope. he managed to get every move, including starting at the crux, and climbing cleanly to the end, with the crux seeming to be in between the first and third bolt. the top section i tried, but my fingers were so cold i could hardly get them to move! but a quick glanceat the top 5 or so meters looks about 22, with good egdes for right hand, and the LH arete is great. the middle section (coming out of the corner onto face, then onto arete)is a little delicate on small slopey edges. doesn't look any harder then 28, and is very doable

alrob
10/08/2004
7:36:05 PM
oh, and the top part is actually slightly off vertical, so its just some delicate slabbing to the top
duglash
10/08/2004
8:04:08 PM
I've just chucked up some dodgy shots from today at http://www.dugfish.com/climbing/

It's a great route and I'm very keen to get out there again - I have Tuesdays and Thursdays off as well
as weekends if anyone's interested.

I don't think anyone's done it since Mikl, in fact I heard according to Charlie Creese neither did he..

Thanks for the bolts Neil!
duglash
10/08/2004
9:26:45 PM
Actually Martin just sent me this, so I obviously heard a bit of a chinese whisper, tho the 2nd bolt was
above the crux:

Charlie belayed Mike on the climb and he told me that it was yoyoed though with the 2nd bolt
preclipped...
dalai
10/08/2004
9:43:44 PM
To put it in perspective though - YoYoing was all the rage in those days and seen as a legitimate ascent. Even Gullichs ascent of Punks was supposedly yo yoed....

Kurt Albert is claimed as introducing the Rotpunkt to the climbing world. The story goes that after every first ground up ascent a red dot was painted at the base to signify it had been redpointed - hence the name.
mikl law
10/08/2004
11:22:01 PM
1) yes yoyoed as everything was then
2) I took a huge whipper off the top trying to finish straight up when I almost got it. Next shot I broke a hold and next time I fiiashed it by stepping right at the top(I hadn't thought of inspecting or cleaning it from above, straight may be ok)
3) It's apparently one of the symptoms of a bad bladder infection

nmonteith
11/08/2004
9:35:10 AM
Great work guys. This has to be one of the best 'anti-lines' near Melbourne and I am happy that it has finally had some attention. Some interesting notes about the bolts. I added an extra bolt to the start (in the corner) as it was a large runout (and crux move) to the original first bolt (very crap 8mm dynabolt!). I moved the second bolt about 30cm to the left so you coudl clip it off the flat-top jug after the first little corner. I noticed several bolt scars (which i patched) near and below the second bolt. They appeared to be chopped rusty carrots.
duglash
11/08/2004
10:17:25 AM
Great route Mykyl. When did you do it?

Just as well it's not on grit or you'd be running it out from wires in the corner..

I also did Slime Time a while ago, which is a great little thing. Clearly I'll have to try Fiction and Rent a
Doddle this summer.
climberman
11/08/2004
10:39:20 AM
Hockly you punk, Jervis says woof woof woof. Ab would say hi, but is now a week overdue with grommet number two and isn't saying much other than 'get this thing outta me'. If bub doesn't come along today I'll call you very soon... mebbe this evening. I'm about to change jobs so can't email from this 'puter, so sorry for the space waste all. vertica@bigpond.com is home email, though. Hope you're well. Grade 28 huh - are you single ?
WM
11/08/2004
11:23:54 AM
(off on a tangent again but at least I know he's checking this thread)
Duglash was it you on the cover of Gordon Poultney's 'sport' guide to victoria monkeying out the dead tree branch about 15m above the lake? Did it snap?!
duglash
11/08/2004
3:45:47 PM
i don't think so, if it's a naked body in flight i think it's Volker Jurisch(?)
duglash
11/08/2004
3:50:49 PM
In fact, now that I'm thinking clearly about it Mikl, I reckon I should be able to get some personal
sponsorship from you for repeating all these routes of yours..

nmonteith
11/08/2004
3:57:55 PM
And I should get some personal sponsorship for replacing all the manky excuses for bolts!

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 54
There are 54 messages in this topic.

 

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