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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Camel's Hump Western Cliffs Omega Block [ Camels Hump Guide | Images ] 

Author
Boogie 'til you pukes loose bolt -replaced 17/4/16
JFG
3-Apr-2016
5:21:19 PM
Noticed today that the 5th bolt on boogie 'til you puke is loose, best to stay off this route at the moment.

Its a ring bolt that seems like the glue has worn away and it can turn side to side and makes a loud rattling sound. it is the bolt on the arete after the traverse.




dalai
3-Apr-2016
10:07:12 PM
Or just lead it using a few bits of gear like was done for a decade or two when there were only two bolts on the whole climb (I known actually three but two were right next to each other) before being retrobolted into oblivion!
SBW
13-Apr-2016
3:15:21 PM
I attempted to replace the bolt today, however my drill broke. I have put red tape around the bolt, as it is definately unsafe now. I will try and borrow a drill and finish the job on Sunday
Kp
14-Apr-2016
1:04:16 AM
Hi Steve....

Probably best to replace all of matts rings. One has cracked in the gramps. The metal was heat treated when bent ( massive no no). Cheers
SBW
14-Apr-2016
7:11:52 AM
Thanks Kent, I was thinking about replacing all of them.
This particular bolt has had glue failure. I suspect it was mainly hardener. Has anyone else come accross this or am I barking up the wrong tree ?

rodw
14-Apr-2016
8:24:59 AM
If you get any sideway torsion on a ring you crack the glue bond and it moves/rattles, further cracking the glue...the main reason you recess them well....if it was originally recessed well it more than likely just a bad glue mix, doesn't mean all suspect...might have been start or end of the tube and simply didn't mix well....with the rest being fine.

Dave_S
14-Apr-2016
4:04:01 PM
On 14/04/2016 Kp wrote:
>
>The metal was heat treated when bent ( massive no no).

Could you elaborate on this? You mean the rings were formed and then heat treated? I'd have assumed that would be the best way to go about it...
Kp
14-Apr-2016
5:09:29 PM
To bend the metal it was heated first then bent into shape. Screws the properties of the steel

Steve: the crux bolt on velvet goldmine @ Vd land was loose from glue failure. Super tough to get out out. Also I have replaced loose bolt on chicane @ spurt. Both due shallow recessing and twisting falls
Mark R
14-Apr-2016
8:00:42 PM
This is the second bolt on the arete to go this season. The ring placed on the crux of Hollow Screams Original came loose early in summer and has been replaced. That one was insufficiently (read not) recessed with an angular fall (and a fall taken pretty often). Unfortunately while loose the bolt has also been an absolute sh`te to get out (the weld broke while attempting to torque it free. It will no doubt yield to a good wailing on which is now due. The bolts below are also poorly recessed and a bit of an eyesore... they get climbed on much less and falls are linear so they are holding up pretty well.

rodw
14-Apr-2016
11:03:30 PM
Sounds like recessing is the issue...replace with proper recessing or use U's
SBW
17-Apr-2016
1:19:05 PM
The loose bolt on boogie has been replaced.
I think the issue was glue failure as the bolt was well recessed. It took over 3 hours to remove. This included drilling a hole directly above the bolt along the shaft.
When it finally came out, I found that the shaft had tack welds along it which I suspect were binding to the edge of the hole

To the MORON who removed the red tape off this bolt somewhere between Wednesday afternoon and Saturday morning. Not everyone was aware of the loose bolt, including one of my friends who happened to lead boogie Saturday morning and was slightly surprised at what he found.

phillipivan
17-Apr-2016
7:40:56 PM
Thanks Steve.
dalai
18-Apr-2016
1:45:36 PM
On 17/04/2016 SBW wrote:
>To the MORON who removed the red tape off this bolt somewhere between
>Wednesday afternoon and Saturday morning. Not everyone was aware of the
>loose bolt, including one of my friends who happened to lead boogie Saturday
>morning and was slightly surprised at what he found.

Red tape? Must have thought they got the first ascent of a project? ;-)

Ben_E
19-Apr-2016
3:25:38 PM
It was a Federal initiative:

https://cuttingredtape.gov.au/
SBW
19-Apr-2016
3:49:12 PM
On 19/04/2016 Ben_E wrote:
>It was a Federal initiative:
>
>https://cuttingredtape.gov.au/

don't think so, it happened to fast :)

Miguel75
20-Apr-2016
10:54:42 PM
On 17/04/2016 SBW wrote:
...SNIP...
>To the MORON who removed the red tape off this bolt somewhere between
>Wednesday afternoon and Saturday morning. Not everyone was aware of the
>loose bolt, including one of my friends who happened to lead boogie Saturday
>morning and was slightly surprised at what he found.

How do you know they were Mormon?

Duang Daunk
21-Apr-2016
7:27:58 AM
On 20/04/2016 Miguel75 wrote:
>On 17/04/2016 SBW wrote:
>...SNIP...
>>To the MORON who removed the red tape off this bolt somewhere between
>>Wednesday afternoon and Saturday morning. Not everyone was aware of the
>>loose bolt, including one of my friends who happened to lead boogie Saturday
>>morning and was slightly surprised at what he found.
>
>How do you know they were Mormon?

Because he's dyslexic?

Miguel75
21-Apr-2016
12:20:25 PM
On 21/04/2016 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 20/04/2016 Miguel75 wrote:
>>On 17/04/2016 SBW wrote:
>>...SNIP...
>>>To the MORON who removed the red tape off this bolt somewhere between
>>>Wednesday afternoon and Saturday morning. Not everyone was aware of
>the
>>>loose bolt, including one of my friends who happened to lead boogie
>Saturday
>>>morning and was slightly surprised at what he found.
>>
>>How do you know they were Mormon?
>
>Because he's dyslexic?

Hehehe;)

Jacques Shurmer
21-Apr-2016
6:35:27 PM
SBW you're welcome for the handled ascender ;) , within 5 hours of the re-bolt the route saw 15 climbers.

phillipivan
21-Apr-2016
7:04:55 PM
How long do you normally leave the glue to cure for? I would have guessed longer than that.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
There are 22 messages in this topic.

 

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