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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 58
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Retro bolting of trad route at Camels Hump

robbie
28-Feb-2016
7:59:25 PM
G'day All, Some mates and I were headed for some climbing yesterday just past a route we did a SHORT while ago.
To to our surprise we found that this route had been retro bolted more recently with 3 shinny new hangers. The first hanger with some RED tape on it. Even thought the pro was a bit tricky to find and the route dirty on our assent, we all agreed that it did not warrant this sort of attention. We are all the wrong side of 60 and didn't find it that hard.
THE INTEL
Date of our assent: 16-Jan -2016
Location: Camels Hump - Eastern Outcrops - Winter Wall.
Guide Book: Northwest Victoria. Page 20.
Route: Cella - Gr 8 - Trad.
So there you have it. Cheers Robbie.

Macciza
29-Feb-2016
9:44:06 PM
Chop them! Or better yet, get the retro bolsters to remove them....
Or just put bolts through the hangers ...

JimmyS
1-Mar-2016
2:00:54 PM
Chop 'em

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1-Mar-2016
2:41:05 PM
Speak to the retro-bolter/s.
~> Give them a chance to do the right thing, ... as they were probably unaware of it being an existing route?
If they don't, then chop AND patch the holes with local material to match.
Then apply to Dangerouser Cliffs Australia for membership, T-shirt, and their absolution, or blessing, depending about how you feel re your action!
;-)


Depending on the pre-existing ethos of established climbs in that particular area, it could be a case of doing nothing being the worst outcome that could happen (imo re incremental creep), from this incident.

I look forward to hearing the retro-bolters point of view if they become aware of this thread...

rocksinmyhead
1-Mar-2016
3:49:19 PM
On 28/02/2016 robbie wrote:

>To to our surprise we found that this route had been retro bolted more
>recently with 3 shinny new hangers.

>The first hanger with some RED tape
>on it.

>Route: Cella - Gr 8 - Trad.


Fark!!! Who the hell is projecting a grade 8?
dalai
1-Mar-2016
4:04:17 PM
I've only so far climbed it with the draws on and first hanger preclipped.

Given the angst in the Sonnie thread about virtuous ethics, I still need to go back and lead it now ground up placing the draws.







Seems to be a bit of the old retrobolting going on out at Camels these days!
patto
1-Mar-2016
5:43:47 PM
On 1/03/2016 dalai wrote:
>Seems to be a bit of the old retrobolting going on out at Camels these
>days!

Yes. A whole wall was done not too far from the hump. I can't remember what its called. Overall its a pretty boring and useless wall for trad or sport. Though it is an accessible place for people new to the sport to get some baby steps in.

The ethics either way could be debated....
dalai
1-Mar-2016
5:48:23 PM
Back wall over on the Eastern Outcrops.

The latest climb is just around the corner from this wall.

Eduardo Slabofvic
1-Mar-2016
6:10:44 PM
Smash them with a mallet

Eduardo Slabofvic
1-Mar-2016
6:11:21 PM
Not sure what to do with the bolts though
dave_s
1-Mar-2016
6:17:13 PM
From the NW Victoria guidebook:

Cella, 90m, grade 8
Starts 3m right of Keres. Initialed.
P1, 20m: The easy slab.
P2, 70m: Move the belay 60m right to below a short groove and then climb it.


That's seriously a route?

Robbie
1-Mar-2016
8:16:59 PM
Yep M9, my thoughts as well, re retro bolters being unaware of an existing route. The area is an absolute maze. And doing nothing is just that. Lets be positive, someone believe s that they have created a new route. ;)

Robbie
1-Mar-2016
8:21:55 PM
On 1/03/2016 dave_s wrote:
>From the NW Victoria guidebook:
>
>Cella, 90m, grade 8
>Starts 3m right of Keres. Initialed.
>P1, 20m: The easy slab.
>P2, 70m: Move the belay 60m right to below a short groove and then climb
>it.
>
>
>That's seriously a route?

Cella is getting an update with some of its measurements. Hence the reason for us doing the climb. The second pitch has a fun crux for an 8, so stay tuned.
>
robin2
1-Mar-2016
8:46:25 PM
Must be about 15+ years ago I did this climb when editing for the Eastern Districts Guidebook. I didn't have a rope so I didn't check the distances. As I recall the second pitch was intermittent low angled rubbish hence my comment 'is it a climb or a bushwalk'. I pretty much wrote it up as for the original route description, which included a 70m second pitch. It may well have a logical finishing point well short of the 70m, taking some of the 'bushwalking' out of the climb.

billk
1-Mar-2016
9:20:01 PM
On 1/03/2016 Robbie wrote:
>Yep M9, my thoughts as well, re retro bolters being unaware of an existing
>route. The area is an absolute maze. And doing nothing is just that.
>Lets be positive, someone believe s that they have created a new route.
> ;)
>

We really need a decent topo of that area, coz last time I was there i couldn't work out where lots of the listed routes were. There are probably some good routes tucked away there that would get a bit of traffic if people could just find them. If people knew where the existing routes were, they could then work out where the possibilities are for new routes, whether shite, so so or classic.

(Perhaps new classics are a bit much to hope for.)
Dave_S
1-Mar-2016
9:25:39 PM
On 1/03/2016 billk wrote:
>(Perhaps new classics are a bit much to hope for.)

Hey, I've done my part!

billk
1-Mar-2016
9:33:01 PM
On 1/03/2016 Dave_S wrote:
>On 1/03/2016 billk wrote:
>>(Perhaps new classics are a bit much to hope for.)
>
>Hey, I've done my part!

cool!
SBW
1-Mar-2016
9:55:45 PM
I think i may Know who did it, I will have a chat to them. I do know they tried to research it.

As a side note, Boogie t'il you puke is a retro. Now the crag classic! (I preffered the old bolting)

Dave_S
1-Mar-2016
10:03:57 PM
Speaking of Boogie, where were the original bolts positioned? I can see how you could probably get away with just two well-placed bolts in the lower section, and then trad gear from the ledge onwards.
SBW
1-Mar-2016
10:30:47 PM
On 1/03/2016 Dave_S wrote:
>Speaking of Boogie, where were the original bolts positioned? I can see
>how you could probably get away with just two well-placed bolts in the
>lower section, and then trad gear from the ledge onwards.

The first bolt was above the undercling, left of the bottom of the flake. The second was to the left and slightly higher than the new position. The old bolt took you away from the rising ground, when you fell. The current second bolt has seen plenty of near grounders.

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 58
There are 58 messages in this topic.

 

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