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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Northwest	(General)	(General)	(General)

Author

Retro bolting of trad route at Camels Hump

mikllaw

1-Mar-2016
10:43:51 PM

those 'old' bolts were probably after the FA, I think we had one low and trad and trust from there-on

dalai

2-Mar-2016
9:47:13 AM

On 1/03/2016 billk wrote:
>We really need a decent topo of that area, coz last time I was there i
>couldn't work out where lots of the listed routes were. There are probably
>some good routes tucked away there that would get a bit of traffic if people
>could just find them. If people knew where the existing routes were, they
>could then work out where the possibilities are for new routes, whether
>shite, so so or classic.
>
>(Perhaps new classics are a bit much to hope for.)

A large number of the routes from those days around the Eastern outcrop had their initials painted at their base. Might be a bit faded now...

Dave_S

2-Mar-2016
11:23:13 AM

Yeah, last time I had a look through that area, I don't think I was able to make out even a single example of initialing.

mikllaw

2-Mar-2016
11:42:31 AM

Adding a few maps to theCrag would help a lot

Jayford4321

2-Mar-2016
4:38:13 PM

Gd 8 with bolts an red tags?
This thred is bullshit.
I'm callin a spade a spade an not a troll.

Dave_S

2-Mar-2016
8:46:33 PM

Tape on the first bolt doesn't necessarily mean "Stay off, this is my project." It could just mean "Stay off, the glue is still drying."

robin2

4-Mar-2016
7:30:30 AM

Checked it out last night. Bolts are good but placement and the route? The route is tagged because they must have run out of battery power when drilling the third bolt hole, and I guess they were planning to place one or two more above that. There's rap anchors at about 10m. There is natural gear available and the route has little value. It would be good to see these bolts dissapear. I believe this retro bolt is a geniune accident.

Agree a topo for the area would be good. It took me a bit of time to work out where everything was, and i edited the guide for that area. In my defence the original route descriptions and the old Rock Guide were all over the place. A couple of the routes at the eastern outcrop are OK. A couple of the rusty bolts need replacing and there may be a case for adding/repositioning a bolt on one or two of the routes. I'll put hand up to come up with some topos or at least an overview aerial photo.

dalai

4-Mar-2016
9:32:41 AM

Noticed on TheCrag last night a new very short scrappy block above the Back wall has been bolted with a couple of micro routes... Same person/s?

Dave_S

4-Mar-2016
12:07:25 PM

On 4/03/2016 dalai wrote:
>Noticed on TheCrag last night a new very short scrappy block above the
>Back wall has been bolted with a couple of micro routes... Same person/s?

Seems likely, and I'd strongly recommend that no bolt chopping occurs until that person has been contacted and given a chance to explain.

The route we're talking about has probably seen one ascent per decade. There's no rush to chop anything immediately, and if the bolter is asked and if it is deemed that the bolts are inappropriate, then they might even be willing to do the removal themselves.

dalai

4-Mar-2016
2:27:54 PM

On 4/03/2016 Dave_S wrote:

>Seems likely, and I'd strongly recommend that no bolt chopping occurs
>until that person has been contacted and given a chance to explain.

Too late. Pitchfork already sharpened...

kieranl

4-Mar-2016
3:21:06 PM

On 4/03/2016 dalai wrote:

>
>Too late. Pitchfork already sharpened...
>
>

A bunch of pitchforks out there could come in handy to dig some more crags out of the moss.

Dave_S

4-Mar-2016
3:28:59 PM

On 4/03/2016 dalai wrote:
>
>Too late. Pitchfork already sharpened...

Just bend the tines downward and then use it as an aid climbing hook. The handle could even make a built-in etrier!


phillipivan

4-Mar-2016
3:38:15 PM

Stuff It. I'ma gonna pour a couple three bags of rapid set down it and save everyone the trouble of chopping it AND climbing it.

You can thank me already.

TimP

4-Mar-2016
7:44:01 PM

Just got back from a huge day with my crew. We pulled all the bolts out of the whole crag, hammered in a bit of reo and connected them up with steel cable to create Australia's first Via Ferrata.

Mark R

4-Mar-2016
8:21:58 PM

It's not. The billy boat bluff routes are short, barely worthwhile but not a crime against humanity either. Possibly against goats. The dude who bolted these has done some good work on back wall below and many many people have climbed his lines. He didn't bolt the line in question.

Mark R

4-Mar-2016
8:38:15 PM

Dave S... if you know who the other dude is it would be good to get in touch with them as you suggest.

Dave_S

4-Mar-2016
8:55:01 PM

On 4/03/2016 Mark R wrote:
>It's not. The billy boat bluff routes are short, barely worthwhile but
>not a crime against humanity either.

They'd make some great bouldering problems, if it weren't for that ugly 10m drop right underneath them...

>The dude who bolted these has done some good work on back wall below and many many people
>have climbed his lines. He didn't bolt the line in question.

Ah. Well then I have no idea who did bolt the line in question.

dalai

4-Mar-2016
11:27:35 PM

On 4/03/2016 Dave_S wrote:
>They'd make some great bouldering problems, if it weren't for that ugly
>10m drop right underneath them...

There are 3 or 4 SDS problems on the wall that is above the middle of the Back wall at right angles to it. Pretty exposed with the ground sloping away steeply, though not quite like the drop off underneath Billy Goat blocks...


billk

5-Mar-2016
10:57:15 AM

Hey has anyone looked at today's Spectrum yet? (It's the Age's kulcha supplement.)

Apparently the mighty Camel's Hump has death defying climbs hundreds of metres above jagged rocks. Unfortunately you have to climb up the side of a mountain to get to them.

Be great to work out what climb the model is on and how high above the deck she really is.


billk

5-Mar-2016
10:58:06 AM

Apparently rock climbing wouldn't interest the masses if it was portrayed realistically.

There are 58 messages in this topic.