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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Beta on "Thousand Watts" at Red Rock?

thylaxene
29-Apr-2015
6:28:27 PM
Saw mention of this in the book 17 Down Under. Anyone got any info on it? Eg where it is so I can climb it!

Cheers.
kieranl
30-Apr-2015
10:16:32 AM
Looks like it may be a relatively recent addition at Ben Nevis. The area is covered by North-west Vic guide but may not be in it. Drop an email to Steve at Rock Hardware steve@rockhardware.com.au (and let us know where it is too )

harold
30-Apr-2015
11:12:54 AM

I emailed Steve for info on this route a few years back and he kindly gave me the description below. Nice well protected slab route mostly on stainless glue in bolts. Just need a bunch of hangers and a few small/medium cams and wires. You will easily see the line of bolts not far from the main abseil access. Probably a good escape option if you back off one of the older scary, runout routes. I'll try and get around to adding this to the crag sometime, I haven't seen it in a guide.

" North West Victoria Guide

Red Rock

1000 Watts 165mt Grade 15

Our intent was a safe and well protected and hopefully one available to the masses. I think we succeeded.

Start 15mt down below the Endless Summer - Yasser block and just past a jumble of boulders.
1. 40m. (13)
Testing moves up to a bolt at 6mt. Follow a seam heading left and past a cam placement. Move up left past a second bolt to the right and on to 2 bomber cam placements in a seam back to you left. Straight up past 2 more bolts to a couple of thin moves below the belay (DFH) on a small headwall.

2. 45m (14)
Head out right and up then straight up past 4 more bolts. From the 4th bolt you can continue straight up past a 5th bolt or move left to a series of "brilliant" pockets and a bolt to the belay (DFH)

3. 45m (15)
Yet another "brilliant" pitch. From the belay head straight up past 6 more bolts. (A small cam can be found between the 2nd and the 3rd bolt if required) The last part of this pitch has some "brilliant" friction climbing if you stay in the line of bolts. Continue up to where the angle eases and belay at the DFH

4. 35m (15)
Easily up to the overlap on natural gear and to a bolt above on the right hand end. Step up and make thin moves to more natural gear and continue up to belay at the abseil boulder.

And the name!! Well we thought the climb was "Brilliant"
John Morris, Chris Watson, Steve Morris. 10.2.08.

thylaxene
1-May-2015
7:14:12 AM
Thank you.

thylaxene
1-May-2015
7:24:13 AM
I've added it to TheCrag:

http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/mt-cole
tskinner
1-May-2015
12:47:25 PM
On 30/04/2015 harold wrote:
>
>I emailed Steve for info on this route a few years back and he kindly
>gave me the description below. Nice well protected slab route mostly on
>stainless glue in bolts. Just need a bunch of hangers and a few small/medium
>cams and wires. You will easily see the line of bolts not far from the
>main abseil access. Probably a good escape option if you back off one
>of the older scary, runout routes. I'll try and get around to adding this
>to the crag sometime, I haven't seen it in a guide.
>
>" North West Victoria Guide
>
>Red Rock
>
>1000 Watts 165mt Grade 15
>
>Our intent was a safe and well protected and hopefully one available to
>the masses. I think we succeeded.
>
>Start 15mt down below the Endless Summer - Yasser block and just past
>a jumble of boulders.
>1. 40m. (13)
>Testing moves up to a bolt at 6mt. Follow a seam heading left and past
>a cam placement. Move up left past a second bolt to the right and on to
>2 bomber cam placements in a seam back to you left. Straight up past 2
>more bolts to a couple of thin moves below the belay (DFH) on a small headwall.
>
>2. 45m (14)
>Head out right and up then straight up past 4 more bolts. From the 4th
>bolt you can continue straight up past a 5th bolt or move left to a series
>of "brilliant" pockets and a bolt to the belay (DFH)
>
>3. 45m (15)
>Yet another "brilliant" pitch. From the belay head straight up past 6
>more bolts. (A small cam can be found between the 2nd and the 3rd bolt
>if required) The last part of this pitch has some "brilliant" friction
>climbing if you stay in the line of bolts. Continue up to where the angle
>eases and belay at the DFH
>
>4. 35m (15)
>Easily up to the overlap on natural gear and to a bolt above on the right
>hand end. Step up and make thin moves to more natural gear and continue
>up to belay at the abseil boulder.
>
>And the name!! Well we thought the climb was "Brilliant"
>John Morris, Chris Watson, Steve Morris. 10.2.08.

I am the editor of Argus (VCC montly newsletter) which has a New Routes & Beta section. This was emailed to me last week and will be included in the next issue also.

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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