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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 62
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Camels Hump New Easy Sport Routes
anthonycuskelly
19-Jan-2015
11:30:43 AM
Just wondering if anyone has FA/grade/name information on the new easy sport routes at Camels Hump, up past Grey Arete?

There's a wall with 6 routes plus linkups, we thought grades 14-18, but I haven't found any information on the area. It seems like a lot of people know it's there somewhere but not many know how to find it, so if I can't get info I'll just put a bit of a writeup on thecrag to try and avoid too much track propagation around there.
dalai
19-Jan-2015
12:06:09 PM
Big fallen tree at the base with an undercut start? Lots of dodgy looking bolts or is this something a lot newer?
jdb
19-Jan-2015
12:45:58 PM
Did you descend down to the climbs via a saddle near the Camel's Hump lookout?

I don't believe they are near Grey Arete, unless they are really new.

I stumbled upon 4 sports routes (~10+years ago) on a wall which in the old guide had a climb called Brian Boru (or something like that)

Yes, they are pleasant 14-18s, with sharp positive holds, if we are talking about the same climbs?!
anthonycuskelly
19-Jan-2015
1:09:50 PM
dalai: Further along, and up the hill a little.

jdb: Very, very shiny fixed hangers and ring bolts. We approached by walking past grey arete then along and up, but you could probably drop down near the lookout somewhere.
dalai
19-Jan-2015
2:17:07 PM
On 19/01/2015 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>dalai: Further along, and up the hill a little.
>
>jdb: Very, very shiny fixed hangers and ring bolts. We approached by walking
>past grey arete then along and up, but you could probably drop down near
>the lookout somewhere.

Could be the back wall as jdb alludes to? Does the wall face back towards Grey arete?

From an earlier topic on that wall - comments from Robin back in 2007

"I did get up to the back wall on saturday & took a few notes and sketched a rough topo. My notes were.

1. News From Home 20m 15 appears to finish left up a groove/crack not right as described in the guide (the section that I edited?). There is absolutely no protection finishing to the right and to reach any sort of feature/crack is well into groundfall territory. Looking at an old description in the Rock guide it simply says "climb up the boss (BR), finishing up groove." I would suggest the groove is left, not right. I do recall attempting this climb in recent years as a warm up and bailing out when I got into groundfall territory.

2. Unknown 1 20m 13. Starts 3m right of NFH. 4 FH's, trad placement to finish optional

3. Unknown 2 20m 15. Starts at Skippy heading left to old FH. Up past 4 more FH's tending left near top. Trad placement near top optional.

4. Skippy. Climb the groove & clip anything within reach.

5. Unknown 3 about 2m R of Skippy. Not sure if this has been done but there is a low fixed hanger then another on high just left of the finishing grove. These FH's could be part of Skippy but appear to be not in very good positions for that climb. U3 probably need one bolt in the middle to complete the climb.

6. Brian Boru. Starts about 1m R of Unknown 3. Rusty carrot then finish up cracks to right of groove.

7. Locris. Ugly chimney

8. Unknown 4 20m 15 Starts 3m right of Locris. 4 FH's, natural belay. 1st FH optional?

I agree with Neil this area would be well served by one set of well positioned rap anchors. Note this is a good area for easier grade climbs and suitable for top roping.

Also does anyone know who has put up these new routes?

I will send in my rough topos to the Argus (VCC)."
anthonycuskelly
19-Jan-2015
2:51:19 PM
Dalai, sounds like it is Back Wall with a significant (re)trobolt: There's a cleft in the middle of the wall with an 'L' painted on the rock which would line up with Locris. I'll try and acquire a look at an older guide (I've only got the 'Around Melbourne') and work out which climbs are now nice cruisy sport routes.
Dave_S
19-Jan-2015
3:53:58 PM
On 19/01/2015 anthonycuskelly wrote:
> I'll try and acquire a look at an older guide
>(I've only got the 'Around Melbourne') and work out which climbs are now
>nice cruisy sport routes.

Unfortunately the Northwest Victoria guidebook seems to be very difficult to get hold of! (Out of print?)
Mark R
19-Jan-2015
3:59:06 PM
Hi Giuys, I will write up descriptions for these which are indeed the back wall... Approached from above but preferably via vague pad up left of grey arÍte etc. the 2 routes left of skippy are about 15/16 and now have U bolt anchors, skippy got a clean and semi retro, Brian nori a rebolt... Bold but easy to reach across to skippy, new 17 on arÍte, a 12 that starts right of loris but crosses left at half height, the easy 9 arÍte right of locr is and a 14 after that. All sport with optional single piece of gear 1-2 cam and mid wires cover the cliff). All have double bolt lower offs. Mixed authors.
dalai
19-Jan-2015
5:16:47 PM
Thanks for the details Mark.
anthonycuskelly
19-Jan-2015
8:54:52 PM
Thanks Mark! We partially cleared & cairned a route up from Grey Arete but it's still not obvious. It is a really nice little easy wall now.

If anyone's heading up to do any other climb resuscitation work I'd be interested in helping out.
peteclimbs
19-Jan-2015
9:02:03 PM
So where are these routes in relation to Grey Arete?
anthonycuskelly
19-Jan-2015
9:28:45 PM
Warning; following description may be wildly inaccurate or horribly misleading and is based on a single visit with a bit of bushbashing.

If you head past Grey Arete, then across and up the slope towards an enormous fallen tree. From the uphill end of this there should be a slight pad heading across and slightly uphill. This turns uphill, gets mildly lost, bashes through some bracken then flattens out amongst some small trees. The wall may be just visible on your left as you face uphill (there is another wall on the right that we didn't investigate).
Mark R
19-Jan-2015
9:40:46 PM
So:

Back Wall:

Would probably be the best midteen crag near Melbourne.

North facing 15-20m wall below rib that heads off East from Lookout. Well shaded by trees. Can be accessed from above (scramble down to chain at top of cliff, there are rings to avoid scramble but hard to find). Best access approx 200m past grey arete, limbo, into oblivion etc via vague trail to base of wall. Routes set for easy leads... anchors are generally not safe for access from above with exception of FHs/chain above Skippy. Refer old NW guide for details re other climbs.

L) wall - 2 short sand bag 18s and one short super soft 24 (barely 23).
L) side of wall the climb above the bollard is OK but needs rebolt (and if not retroed will be essentially solo)

Remaining routes described relative to the 2 major R) trenches

Summer Breeze 15m 15
Left most line of 4FHs to crack (mid/large wires) and up right to shared double U anchor.
FA MRewi 2007 (I replaced 2 old low bolts that really did lead no where)

Unknown 15m 15
1m R) of SB. Direct start past 4 or 5 FHs to above anchor. Good. Predates my time here.

Skippy 15m 14
Could be the trench (which has been climbed but is an absolute deep mossy horror show). More likely given the old bolts it climbed 1m right all the way. Now retroed by one who will remain un-named with 2RB and 3FH to gain the original FH/chain anchor atop the cliff. Rebolted 2014

Brian Boru 15m 15
The old bolt has been replaced. Run out although one of the bolts on S can be reached. Take some wires/cams but not much fits. Trend R) at top to DRB anchor. Rebolted 2014

Undertow 15m 16/7
Undercut start on arete past 3 or 4 FH to DRB anchor as for BB. Mark Rewi 2014

Tie the Knot 18m 12
Named after an incident involving 2 hapless bumblies who tried to get each other killed at Omega Block. Start 2m R) of the low angle arete past 2 bolts until able to step L) across gully onto balancy wall. 5? bolts in all to DRB anchor. FA Phil Aarons 2013/4

Anthony's Arete 20m 9
Start as for TTK or 2m left and trundle up the ridge past 4 or 5 bolts and optional trad up high to gain DRB anchor on OFTM. FA Liam Aarons 2013/4

One for the Masses 20m 14
Named during my "I'm a wanker phase". Nice climbing past 4 or 5 FH to DRB anchor. Mark Rewi 2007

There are a couple of obvious lines to tidy up further along. Dont hold back!
Mark R
19-Jan-2015
9:42:51 PM
Someone who knows what they are doing can put it in the crag!
Jayford4321
20-Feb-2015
9:26:08 PM
Hey has anyone found this crag or got better directions. I tried last week an couldn't find it. Is it easier to find from top or bottom.
Cheers J
Jayford4321
22-Feb-2015
6:31:13 PM
Thanks for the help not. Found it yesterday after a fk load of bashing. Once you know were to go it's easy. Walk to the lookout follow the little track on right that continues beyond the lookout and then cut down left to join a track that gos at the bottom of the cliff line. Stay close to the bottom of cliff on ya right and then ther it is. The whole shit about grey arete is just that shit don't waste your time like I did following those dum ass directions.

The climbs are ok. Some have too many grips. The vcc should fix the bottom of the cliff as all my gear got shit all through it.
J

JamesMc
22-Feb-2015
6:38:33 PM
On 22/02/2015 Jayford4321 wrote:
>The vcc should fix the bottom of the cliff as all my gear got shit all through it.
>J

HTF is keeping your gear clean an issue for the VCC?

BTW, I was up there today for the first time in decades. If anyone feels that the cliff would improved by retro bolting Tobin Bros, go for it.

James Mc
marky
22-Feb-2015
8:18:06 PM
On 22/02/2015 Jayford4321 wrote:
>Thanks for the help not. Found it yesterday after a fk load of bashing.
>Once you know were to go it's easy. Walk to the lookout follow the little
>track on right that continues beyond the lookout and then cut down left
>to join a track that gos at the bottom of the cliff line. Stay close to
>the bottom of cliff on ya right and then ther it is. The whole shit about
>grey arete is just that shit don't waste your time like I did following
>those dum ass directions.
>
>The climbs are ok. Some have too many grips. The vcc should fix the bottom
>of the cliff as all my gear got shit all through it.
>J

Hahaha!! Darwin Award?? Maybe you should just take up stamp collecting... Lol

Maybe next time bring a tarp folded up in your pack to lay your gear on your royal highness.


dalai
23-Feb-2015
2:03:26 PM
On 22/02/2015 Jayford4321 wrote:
>The climbs are ok. Some have too many grips. The vcc should fix the bottom
>of the cliff as all my gear got shit all through it.

Dear VCC

Please pave and mark a path to the cliff hence forth removing the fun in wandering through the bush searching for this or any other cliff. Cable car like the one planned to be built on Mt Wellington would be the preferred option, perhaps contacting them would be worthwhile as they may be after a plan B if the Tassie government come to their senses and don't allow it.

At the base of the cliff, consider fitting matting like Burnley to make it safer and keep my gear clean.

Please remove / fill holds from the climbs as there are too many to choose from. Better yet please paint the holds so we know which to use and can avoid the rest.

A roof over the cliff would be great as it will protect us from the elements.

If you could move the cliff to the city it would be much appreciated. Far more convenient...

Thanks

shortman
23-Feb-2015
2:24:45 PM
Dalai cracked a funny.

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There are 62 messages in this topic.

 

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