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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
International (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Yangshuo
Howsie
17/07/2014
2:15:00 PM
I am sure there are many who have experieced climbing at Yangshuo. I am heading there in September and was wondering....

- where's the best place to meet climbing partners?
- is there anyone wanting to meet up (5-19 Sept)?
- does anyone have insight/concern regarding the condition of bolts?
- not to miss locations, crags or nearby sights?

Thanks for any feedback.

shortman
17/07/2014
3:00:15 PM
On 17/07/2014 Howsie wrote:
>
>Thanks for any feedback.

Firstly, you have way to much international climbing going on for my liking.

Secondly, you go overseas way too much.

And thirdly, I am super jealous of your life.

Helpful?

ajfclark
Online Now
17/07/2014
3:17:05 PM
I was there in April 2011?

I met quite a few climbers at Karst Cafe and China Climb (or whatever it became). No idea if they still exist anymore. Picked up a guidebook there for 100Y ~= $15. Serviceable. We rode pushbikes everywhere. Sometimes this lead to epic missions when we went too far.

We got hassled at a few crags for money. Wine Bottle springs to mind. Anywhere that's close to the road or has lots of easy routes seemed more problematic.

There were a few places where you could see they'd had issues with the bolts. The upper parts of Treasure Cave had 6 or 7 bolts in about 1m with 5cm or more of thread pulled through the nut. These were mostly at ground level though so it might've just been people practising? All the lower hangers were missing from routes at Tom Thumb and Baby Frog Buttress.

White Mountain has had a history of access issues. It was fine when I was there, but who knows now?

Moon Hill is spectacular even if you don't climb. The steps are super slippery when wet. The easy (5.8?) Todd Skinner pitch right of the arch (facing down hill) was loose and scary.

The Egg was good.

Chicken Cave was cool, as was Treasure Cave.

Didn't climb anything at the Butterfly but I've been told the mud springs are good?

Riverside was interesting too. Both the easy routes at the right end were dirty and scary.

Low Mountain and Space Buttress were both worth a visit.

Twin Gate Mountain was somewhat polished maybe?

Eduardo Slabofvic
17/07/2014
3:38:50 PM
It's all gone to crap. Go somewhere else.

There's plenty of great climbing in China. Go check out the Climb Dali web site for info on what's the in place to go. There's a great sandstone place recently been opened up Yunnan. Again, Climb Dali will have info on it.

If you have to go to Yangshuo, try finding the crags closer to Guilin. I went to one that was called Stone City, or something like that, and it was pretty big. 4 pitch routes, and the tallest parts weren't developed then. Maybe they are now. It was far enough away from Yangshuo to be away from all the access crap
tristosterone
17/07/2014
9:08:13 PM
Was there in late October last year and February this year. Access issues have basically been sorted due to the hard work of the local climbers. If you stay at the climber's inn, the owner, lily, will hook you up with climbers or go climbing with you. Bolts are generally fine. White mountain, lei ph Shan and moon hill have to be the stand out crags. The place is awesome - it's just easy e.g. cheap food, cheap accom and lots of great routes. Only problem in sept is it will probably be pretty warm...
Howsie
18/07/2014
8:50:34 AM
Thank you for your very quick feedback. Have been in touch with Lilly and booked myself in. Also given my late flight arrival she sorted out transport which is brilliant as I was given the heads up that the taxi mob there can be crooks.

tomatessechees
18/07/2014
10:12:29 AM
@tristosterone
I am debating spending Xmas vacations there and would be keen to hear how conditions were for you in late Dec/early Jan. Finger-numbingly cold? Is it so popular that there are line-ups for a lot of the routes? Any point in bringing trad gear or is it all bolted? Cheers!

martym
18/07/2014
12:25:28 PM
On 18/07/2014 tomatessechees wrote:
>@tristosterone
>I am debating spending Xmas vacations there and would be keen to hear
>how conditions were for you in late Dec/early Jan. Finger-numbingly cold?
>Is it so popular that there are line-ups for a lot of the routes? Any point
>in bringing trad gear or is it all bolted? Cheers!

I was there in January 2009 - I didn't bring any climbing gear as I assume it would be freezing. It was about 20 degrees for the 4 days I was in Yangshuo. I spoke to a few of the climbing companies & managed to rent a harness; shoes & a guide (a friendly young climber) for about $60 and did Happy New Year on the Thumb. It's a trade route for them, 5.10 or something, slippery limestone. We climbed in T-shirts.

I asked the guide "Do you want to like, check I can belay and stuff?"
He said "I figure, you want to do a 5 pitch climb at 5.10 - you know how to belay."
Fair enough.

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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