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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles The Pharos (General) Uncle Charlie [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Glue hold removed from Punks

ajfclark
1/04/2014
9:18:13 AM
http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2014/04/news-araps-classic-defiled/

BoulderBaby
1/04/2014
9:43:48 AM

" What is a route’s natural state? What is the place of glue in route preparation and should it be used to ‘return’ a route to its ‘natural’ state following the degrading of time and traffic? Can you chip a chip?"

I think this is just as bad as chipping. Once a chips done, its done. As much as I don't feel that chipping is appropriate(Customising climbs in 2014) that route had history. Is it almost worse to 'undo' a chip? or fill it over? I think so (and who's right is it do 'undo/fill a chip???) Maybe the person who initially put it there? I have been at crags when holds have broken, and that is natural - and it is at that persons discretion to reglue it be if its crutial in the way the line works, but come on - seriously? This is petty!!

BoulderBaby
1/04/2014
9:46:55 AM
This also could be a massive april fools - heres hoping!

Sabu
1/04/2014
9:58:59 AM
Totally an April fools joke.

phillipivan
1/04/2014
10:14:00 AM
This would be a funnier April Fool's, except it's dated 31/3... go figure.

ajfclark
1/04/2014
10:23:17 AM
I liked this one:

Eduardo Slabofvic
1/04/2014
10:26:23 AM
I would drink that if it was mixed with vodka

sbm
1/04/2014
10:38:39 AM
On 1/04/2014 phillipivan wrote:
> This would be a funnier
>April Fool's, except it's dated 31/3... go figure.

That's not really April fool's though, the dude is actually suing...not funny at all when combined with the "perfect storm" article below.

phillipivan
1/04/2014
10:45:01 AM
... That was kinda the point sbm.
martym
1/04/2014
12:41:10 PM
On 1/04/2014 BoulderBaby wrote:
>This also could be a massive april fools - heres hoping!

A very specific targeted joke that only a small portion of the climbing community would get... and if you found out it was a joke - how many people's climbing goals would it affect?
One Day Hero
1/04/2014
1:40:43 PM
I'm just really thankful that the India-Ethiopia-Somalia 'joke' hasn't been trotted out yet again.
Dave J
1/04/2014
2:17:38 PM
On 1/04/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>I'm just really thankful that the India-Ethiopia-Somalia 'joke' hasn't
>been trotted out yet again.
That was so 'last year'

BoulderBaby
1/04/2014
2:38:26 PM
On 1/04/2014 martym wrote:
>On 1/04/2014 BoulderBaby wrote:
>>This also could be a massive april fools - heres hoping!
>
>A very specific targeted joke that only a small portion of the climbing
>community would get... and if you found out it was a joke - how many people's
>climbing goals would it affect?

Almost everyone I live with...

shortman
1/04/2014
2:52:36 PM
On 1/04/2014 BoulderBaby wrote:

>Almost everyone I live with...

How many do you live with that can actually climb punks?

sbm
1/04/2014
3:33:37 PM
This is great news and a step forward for Australian climbing. I believe NSW climbers should follow suit and this weekend I will start on the "restoration" of every glue enhanced hold in the Bluies.

Eduardo Slabofvic
1/04/2014
3:49:00 PM
On 1/04/2014 shortman wrote:
>On 1/04/2014 BoulderBaby wrote:
>
>>Almost everyone I live with...
>
>How many do you live with that can actually climb punks?

That's not the correct question.

BlankSlab
1/04/2014
3:56:21 PM
On 1/04/2014 sbm wrote:
>This is great news and a step forward for Australian climbing. I believe
>NSW climbers should follow suit and this weekend I will start on the "restoration"
>of every glue enhanced hold in the Bluies.

glue enhanced protection included?

BoulderBaby
1/04/2014
7:13:22 PM
On 1/04/2014 Edward Oslabofvic wrote:
>On 1/04/2014 shortman wrote:
>>On 1/04/2014 BoulderBaby wrote:
>>
>>>Almost everyone I live with...
>>
>>How many do you live with that can actually climb punks?

Almost everyone I live with.



Turns out all that's left is a big resin scar of that hold.


E. Wells
1/04/2014
10:30:51 PM
Holds that are reinforced with glue so that they dont get ripped off the wall by lard asses are certainly not 'enhanced' by the glue. Usually glue makes them alot slipperier and sometimes more slopey than they initially were. Living in Victoria its easy to scoff at glued up flakes and sidepulls because you have hard rock. Blueys does not.

shortman
1/04/2014
10:53:32 PM
I call bullshit. I'm a light weight weak f*cker and have ripped holds off routes that have been climbed thousands of times...piccolo or whatever that shit climb is at the organ pipes...and on the flip side of that....close to Melbourne their is this place called egg rock where I can go with my dog and my fav problem has a hold that has been flexing for 3 years....ya never know...

I can see why people glue but for f*cks sake....adapt to the problem.....not the other way around. Just go climb something else.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
There are 26 messages in this topic.

 

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