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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Browns Road Sydney - Call for history and info

BlankSlab
12/02/2014
10:20:18 AM
Hi Everyone.

I'm trying to track down information regarding Browns Road crag in Sydney. I spend a lot of time here and put up some routes recently and have been contemplating the equipping of some of the larger 10-12m tope ropes. Also want to make sure the routes put up are not conflicting with forgotten history.
I also want to try and record any info for the place in terms of FA names, Dates, when its was developed. Have been hunting around for a while but haven't found much at all.

Will Monks mentioned Peter Balint's Sydney bouldering guide to me had some details (thanks Will for pointing me in the right direction). I have had a few names passed on in terms of people putting up problems / routes Jon Reilly, Rob Saunders, Hira Verick, Mike Myers, Justin Kennedy, Tim O'Neill and Libby Illy. Are any of these people members here or does anyone have any contact information for them.

If anyone knows of other publications that might have some details then pass it on to me.
Any help is much appreciated.

Just realised i posted it in gear / lost and found. Can it be moved over to the crag beta section by one of the mods here??

*Chockstone Moderator - Topic moved as requested.*

pmonks
12/02/2014
3:27:45 PM
I didn't do any FAs there, but climbed there on quite a few occasions in the mid-late 90s.

My $0.02 would be to leave the place as a top-rope only crag - it's pretty unlikely you'd be putting up first ascents and it's just not high enough to make a good leading experience. By leaving it unleadable you're also gifting it to current & future hardpersons who have the cojones to solo that kind of terrain. If you're keen to spruce up the place, pulling some of the old carrot anchor bolts and replacing them with modern anchors (i.e. SSGABs) would be a better way to go.
PDRM
12/02/2014
3:53:42 PM
I lived just up the road for a while, bouldered there often and put in a few of the large top rope bolts on the isolated block.

P

Edit: and I'd agree with pmonks views on how the place should be developed/not...
Dr Nick
12/02/2014
4:18:15 PM
PMonks, most of the climbs have at least one modern anchor in addition to the older carrot, done about two years ago. That gives two points at the top of each climb without having to drill too much. I'm sure there are some that were missed in the rebolt, so care still needs to be taken.

pmonks
13/02/2014
8:55:50 AM
On 12/02/2014 Dr Nick wrote:
>PMonks, most of the climbs have at least one modern anchor in addition
>to the older carrot, done about two years ago.

Nice - when I climbed there it was mostly natural anchors (often trees) with the odd rusty carrot here and there. Good to save the trees some wear & tear.

BlankSlab
17/02/2014
11:44:32 AM
Thanks for the input guys (been away for a few days).

As Dr NIck said most the top outs have new bolts placed by him (thanks i couldn't remember who it was who did it) and that covers most of the courtyard area now.
Think someone come through and did another batch because many of them now have 2 new stainless anchors.

I have fixed up a few more over the past 6 months and have headed down the hill to do some easier below 16 stuff and put up some mixed routes on stuff that didnt appear to have been climbed. Anyway i took the approach that mixed is best if any new stuff was to go up (this is areas away from the courtyard). As a result there is a few carrots down the hill on the lower cliffs (maybe 3 or 4) but the rest of it is pretty much as is.

Been surprised that its had an increase in traffic over the past few months which is seeing the courtyard climbs clean up nice and as a result you probably don't need your brush with you any more.

Get down there and have a climb if you haven't been there. Early mornings its in the shade until 11:30.

Thanks for the response again.

EDIT:
Actually would love to know who was the person who took the time to bolt the too harder roof climbs down near aid walls. Would be good to record them if possible. Any leads would be much appreciated.

Capt_mulch
20/02/2014
4:02:29 PM
Mike Myers would be a good source of info (he used to live nearby), but he seems to have dropped off the planet for the moment. I'm meeting up with a pile of old mutual friends in a few weeks so I'll see if I can hunt up his contact number (I know an old girlfriend still has contact with him). Climbed there a few times with Mike in 1982 ish.

rodw
Online Now
20/02/2014
8:17:07 PM
WW&S still has contact regularly mulchy..ask him

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/02/2014
9:13:49 PM
On 20/02/2014 Capt_mulch wrote:
>(I know an old girlfriend still has contact with him).

On 20/02/2014 rodw wrote:
>WW&S still has contact regularly mulchy..ask him

Are you gents now suggesting ww&s has a gender identity crisis happening?
~> I figure he will set you straight soon enough!
Heh, heh, heh.


Capt_mulch
21/02/2014
10:17:20 AM
Had a Facebook message from WW&S today that alluded to Myers contact - I don't know about a gender ID crisis with WW&S - I think his rough old mug is only attractive to females!!
widewetandslippery
21/02/2014
12:10:28 PM
Browns Road had most of its problems top roped first then done solo, without crashmats I think that is fair terminology.

I think good top rope anchors are the only anchors that should be placed.

There are plenty of other suburban routes and scope for many many more in the Sydney region.


BlankSlab
21/02/2014
12:25:33 PM
Thanks for that.

There are 12 messages in this topic.

 

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