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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Poll Option Votes Graph
Go for it, lots of good options 5
33% 
Stay home you fool! 2
13% 
Read the bloody guide book and stop bothering us! 8
53% 

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Best Araps routes in 40+ heat?
Wendy
7/02/2014
7:38:40 AM
On 6/02/2014 simey wrote:
>On 6/02/2014 Wendy wrote:
>>Reversing the scramble to Cecilia and walking out is possible but a bit
>sketchy.
>
>That's right. The grade 2 scramble is completely inappropriate to reach
>a cliff where the routes are all graded 19 to 26+. It makes much more sense
>to rap in and then climb out and haul your gear out... not!
>
You can scramble it all you want Simey - i've been up it and down it, and it's ok up, although I'm not thrilled about it but it really sucks down. And you have to walk down to cecilia, past that cliff then up again with all your stuff when you can just toddle along the top and rap in. Besides, you lose the opportunity to rig a bunch of clip and lower anchors or a bunch of friendly top topes. Hauling out your left over food and water is really not a lot of effort you know.
jprockbelly
7/02/2014
10:27:06 AM
Thanks again White Gold, Wendy, and everyone else. Great to get some decent feedback (in spite of what the poll says)

On 5/02/2014 JamesMc wrote:
>Arapiles won't go away.
Neither will Buffalo!
I did consider this but I've been there during high summer, and as goshan says, my main memory is blazing hot sun everywhere.

On 5/02/2014 White Trash wrote:
>the murray, as anything else is a creek by comparison,

Your avatar is perfect for this comment :)
jrc
7/02/2014
12:21:54 PM
Hot Flap is a ripper in these conditions. Only way to do it.

I remember taking the kids up Conifer Ck in the cool of the evening once too. The ribs were worthy of a barbecue!

If you overheat too much you can go to the pix in Horsham. as you pass out from heat exhaustion you can reflect on how big old stone buildings have enough thermal mass not to need aircon...
jdb
7/02/2014
4:21:13 PM
Central Gully right side - Kinkaid 18* and Morphydd 19*** are pretty shady

shiltz
7/02/2014
4:51:23 PM
What's the mozzie situation like this year? Last time I went looking for shady climbing on a hot Arapiles summer afternoon I was almost eaten alive. After that I finally arrived at the conclusion that Arapiles is a good April - November crag. Only took me about 10 years.
Wendy
7/02/2014
6:18:46 PM
On 7/02/2014 shiltz wrote:
>What's the mozzie situation like this year? Last time I went looking for
>shady climbing on a hot Arapiles summer afternoon I was almost eaten alive.
> After that I finally arrived at the conclusion that Arapiles is a good
>April - November crag. Only took me about 10 years.

I would almost put that the other way around. Arapiles is a good Nov-April crag ...

Not a mozzie to be seen in ages. Can't remember when I was last bitten at the crag. It's way too dry to have any around. Was at Skyline Walls again today, perfect conditions until about 2 and even after that for the more heat tolerant.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
9/02/2014
1:32:26 PM
On 7/02/2014 Wendy wrote:
>Can't remember when I was last bitten at the crag.

~> As opposed to posting on Chocky... ;-)
Heh, heh, heh.
Roast_chook
9/02/2014
7:37:06 PM
I can categorically rule out doing the full face of watchtower.
Drake
9/02/2014
8:26:17 PM
>> I can categorically rule out doing the full face of watchtower.

Fancy a trip up Tiger wall next- perhaps Kaiser to Blockbuster?
Roast_chook
9/02/2014
8:30:31 PM
Maybe once I start peeing again!
jprockbelly
10/02/2014
12:07:55 PM
Preludes wall and surrounds were wonderful and cool on Saturday, you'd never have known it was 40+ on the plains. It was actually pleasant until about 2:00 and bearable after than if you were keen. We climbed there until about 5pm when the sun started to peep over the top and the shade disappeared.

Red Parrot Chasm was a hit with everyone. The rock was cool to touch and cold air was leaking from the back of the crack! Luckily we'd stopped by bunnings on the way up so I had a 4' piece of PVC pipe to protect the crux, good thing too since my volleys blew a hole in the toe half way up.

On 7/02/2014 shiltz wrote:
>What's the mozzie situation like this year?

Not a mozzie in sight all weekend .... although I was seriously molested by march flies

shortman
10/02/2014
12:40:43 PM
Yeah...but preludes wall is always so uninspiring...and grey...and just shit really.
jprockbelly
10/02/2014
4:22:26 PM
On 10/02/2014 shortman wrote:
>Yeah...but preludes wall is always so uninspiring...and grey...and just
>shit really.

Yeah I know mate, not a patch on those Merri Creek gems ;)

On a 40+ day I'll take uninspiring grey in the shade over, inspired orange in the sun.

shortman
10/02/2014
4:44:55 PM
On 10/02/2014 jprockbelly wrote:
>On 10/02/2014 shortman wrote:
>>Yeah...but preludes wall is always so uninspiring...and grey...and just
>>shit really.
>
>Yeah I know mate, not a patch on those Merri Creek gems ;)
>
>On a 40+ day I'll take uninspiring grey in the shade over, inspired orange
>in the sun.

Ha ha. Fair call. Don't knock da creek bro!
martym
11/02/2014
12:24:51 AM
On 5/02/2014 jprockbelly wrote: I know there are a bunch of good routes
>that are shady all day, but I'm guessing these will be chockers. Plus when
>it tops 40 it's still hot in the shade.

anyone mention Pilot Error & Tarzan yet?

Not big & long - but that's not exactly what you want on a 40 degree day...

ajfclark
11/02/2014
12:29:59 PM
Did spiral staircase this morning. Gets good morning shade this time of year. Top pitches go into the sun about 1030...
rhysd85
20/02/2014
4:47:36 PM
I did Kaiser direct / resignation a few weeks ago on a 45 degree day. Started at 6pm - car reading was 44 finished at 820 car reading of 33. It wasn't too bad in the shade and surprisingly not too slippery, until it rained for five minutes.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
There are 37 messages in this topic.

 

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