17 Down Under:
17 DOWN UNDER. "A celebration of moderate grade climbing in Victoria". 184 pages. 285 images. Father & son team, Steve & John Morris, embark on a journey to climb and photograph 50 of the best rock climbs in Victoria, grade 17 & under. Inc bookmark $50.00
Located in Newnes Sate Forest north of Zig Zag railway mostly a sport crag was smattering of trad...(Bungleboori crack is across the creek from green wall, gr 21 65m trad test piece which apparently is a classic for the budding trad masters.)
Climb Number - 75
Grades - 6-24
West carpark - best for Pagoda environs, surprise wall, pack raft spire, red & green wall
East Car carpark - best for Diesel wall, walk down wall and red wall
...though you can walk to all crags from each of them. East carpark road is rough so unless you have high clearance best to head for west carpark. (Diesel wall got its name from a stray rock that put a hole in my Diesel tank on one trip in.)
Pagoda environs is a great kids/beginner crag, Diesel a good moderate crag with harder stuff at surprise wall and up the creek valley. Mostly a 50m rope and bunch of draws will get you up most things but be aware there are longer routes, so make sure your rope is long enough for the lower offs (mainly surprise and red wall).
Most routes only had a few ascents, so treat holds with this in mind as it is the Blueys not Araps, though we have a 100kg+ climber in the crew and he had no issues. Place was hit hard by fires so don't wear white :) and take a brush to dust of a bit of soot or lichen we may have missed.
There are a few projects about so please stay off them as projectors are out of country or recovering from a broken bone, but plenty of other stuff to keep you amused.
There are some really good routes and some not so really good routes, haven't starred any of them...you can work it out...or if you really want my opinion PM me.
Enjoy (or not)..up to you.
P.S Note we do have an old rope that somehow survived the fires hanging down the southern side of the Pagoda, we wil get it next time we are there so just leave it.