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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ]

Author

Great Divide

chalkischeap

30-Aug-2006
6:39:11 PM

Can anyone provide the beta to unlock this cruxy little number? The tricky bit is in the groove.

Cheers,

Mike

Nottobetaken

31-Aug-2006
8:24:37 AM

Belayed a German friend on it years ago - who thought the bottom slab was 24/25 to the crux, then V6/7 crux out to the arete - then 23/24 to the top. Obviously this doesn't help you move by move - but it also doesn't really add up to a 'soft touch' 27 either. He didn't do it (had 2 runs on it) - but by comparisons sake - he knocked over Touchstone Pictures and Angular 2nd shot. When you get around to doing Dinosaurs DD - let me know!

chalkischeap

31-Aug-2006
8:21:23 PM

Thanks for that - your memory is correct. When the crux sequence is worked out it will be a great 50m pitch. It appears to be just 3 moves. Jugs to left hand gaston - right hand pinch/crimp and pop for the break ...........................or does it go left a little lower?.

Couldn't do it either way on Saturday so would appreciate some help with footwork/body position or whatever it takes.

Dinosaurs DD is on the list - hey they all are!

kieranl

31-Aug-2006
10:45:34 PM

I belayed Steve Monks on it years ago and he fell off the slab once and then took two or three tries at the crux before coming down for a good lie down in the big break between the slab and the crux. He then did it.
My suggestion: climb better.

drdeviousii

1-Sep-2006
8:43:55 AM

On 31/08/2006 kieranl wrote:
>My suggestion: climb better.

Enlightening as always kieranl.

Nottobetaken

1-Sep-2006
11:25:33 AM

On 31/08/2006 chalkischeap wrote:
>Jugs to left hand gaston - right hand pinch/crimp and pop for the >break .... or does it >go left a little lower?.

He definitely used the LH gaston method - that was a key move.

chalkischeap

1-Sep-2006
11:26:03 PM

Thanks for the advice guys, I will go for the gaston move and climb better. I must admit I was hoping for a little more detail but I’ll work with that. This seems to be a rather neglected climb considering its quality.

nmonteith

4-Sep-2006
9:51:55 AM

On 1/09/2006 chalkischeap wrote:
>This seems to be a rather neglected climb considering its quality.

Same could be said for all of Taipan Wall!

wm

25-May-2011
11:28:30 AM

On 31/08/2006 chalkischeap wrote:
> It appears to be just 3 moves. Jugs to left hand gaston - right hand pinch/crimp and pop for the break

weirdly enough, out of these 3 moves I could do the 2 long moves but not the 10cm move. Anyone got beta for getting the R hand crimp/sidepull? I'm hoping there's some trick to pull through on the gaston without requiring the L shoulder of a mutant ... ?

Dave J

25-May-2011
11:58:23 AM

From memory it was get the left gaston, something little with the right ...feet up and go again off the gaston....but if it wasn't that then hold the little thing on the right and go with your left. Sorry...it was a long time ago...But the FEET UP bit was the key.....maybe there's bridging or a drop knee to be had or something. Steve Monks trick of a good lie around in the sun may not be an option you have.

Rossco

25-May-2011
12:05:47 PM

I haven't done it Mike, but I think using a heel is key from speaking to people.

ademmert

25-May-2011
1:47:31 PM

Pesonaly, WM start working that shoulder! I think that is the reall key :o(

MichaelOR

25-May-2011
6:57:49 PM

Toughen up Will - just because you can't reach or jump for it doesn't mean you won't learn some technique and/or get stronger in that shoulder and make the move!
Michael

PS Sorry to miss your 'Taipan Party' last weekend! Congrats on Father O. You're running out of easy ticks on Taipan so take my advice!

IdratherbeclimbingM9

25-May-2011
7:22:12 PM

On 25/05/2011 ademmert wrote:
>Pesonaly, WM start working that shoulder! I think that is the reall key
>:o(

Either that or use a pink rope!
~> I am told they are good for most things, including free ascents of Ozy...
Heh, heh, heh.

There are 14 messages in this topic.