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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 71
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge (General) (General) [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Ozymandias and water

gnaguts
7/12/2016
4:27:07 PM
freddofrog
>an angle grinder to chop the oldies.

WotU got against M9?

gnaguts
7/12/2016
4:32:52 PM
On 6/12/2016 sgodwin wrote:
>What I wanted to ask is if anyone knows the current status of the creek
>in the gorge. Are we likely to have any trouble getting water? Also what
>state are the belay anchors on the route in? Should we consider bringing
>gear to replace old bolts?
>
Ur on tha track x leanin 2wardz conservatizm 2 garantee gettin up it.
Carry in h2o just in case, and bring a haulbg full of pitons for belays just in case.
sgodwin
8/12/2016
11:52:10 AM
Thanks guys.

We're actually planning to bring a portaledge. Maybe not really necessary for this route, but the idea is that this will be a bit of a warmup/training climb for a trip to Yosemite in about six months, and some of the routes we have in mind over there will involve a portaledge. I've talked to others that have climbed Ozy and found a portaledge worked well to create a flat sleeping surface on Big Grassy.

If we manage to move fast enough on the first day on the wall we might even have time to haul to the Gledhill Bivi and spend the night there instead, but plan A is to bivi on Big Grassy and haul the next two pitches in the morning after we've lightened the bag by eating and drinking some of the contents.
gfdonc
8/12/2016
12:33:41 PM
"Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth"
- Mike Tyson

Grinder
8/12/2016
1:16:27 PM
On 8/12/2016 gfdonc wrote:
>"Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth"
>- Mike Tyson
>
Has Ozy busted your lip Steve?
gfdonc
8/12/2016
4:34:00 PM
On 8/12/2016 Grinder wrote:
>Has Ozy busted your lip Steve?

>If we manage to move fast enough on the first day on the wall we might
>even have time to haul to the Gledhill Bivi and spend the night there instead,

Naah .. just biting mine ..
lightfoot
8/12/2016
5:23:18 PM
A Ledge is awesome get to grassy for a night and then bivvy at gledhill. Gledhill bivy is worth the trip in itself. Do what you need to to spend the night there.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8/12/2016
7:03:10 PM
On 6/12/2016 sgodwin wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Sorry to drag this old thread back up, but I was hoping somebody might
>be able to give me some up to date info on Ozy.
>
>My girlfriend and I planning to come to Mt Buffalo in the week before
>Christmas, with Ozymandius direct as the main objective. We have a little
>bit of aiding/big wall experience, but we're not fast, so the plan is:
>
>Day 1: Arrive in Melbourne on the ferry from Tassie, sort out food and
>gear, drive to Buffalo, suss out the approach to the Defender of the Faith
>rap anchors.
>Day 2: Rap in via Defender of the Faith, find the start of the route,
>get water, fix a pitch or two, bivi at the base. (I have dodgy ankles so
>I hate walking down hills. I don't care if the abseil approach is awkward
>with a haul bag, I'll take it over carting loads down by foot any day)
>Day 3: Climb to Big Grassy, fix the next two pitches, rap back to ledge,
>bivi.
>Day 4: Climb to top, drink beer, sleep.
>Day 5: As above, minus the climbing part.
>Day 6: Angels
>
>What I wanted to ask is if anyone knows the current status of the creek
>in the gorge. Are we likely to have any trouble getting water? Also what
>state are the belay anchors on the route in? Should we consider bringing
>gear to replace old bolts?
>
>Cheers,
>Scott

There will be good water in Crystal Brook all summer due the best rain it has had last winter for twenty years.
I've only seen it dry up on one summer in the last thirty years, and that was at the end of a prolonged drought of five years running.

Belay anchors on the route in?
DotF is a trade route and had all its belays (regarding its use as access to Ozy), upgraded a while back to mega-stainless.
The rest down Comet Ramp are more than adequate though one is sketchily exposed if you happen to be going down in wet conditions.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8/12/2016
7:10:21 PM
On 7/12/2016 gnaguts wrote:
>freddofrog
>>an angle grinder to chop the oldies.
>
>WotU got against M9?

It would upset more than just me if someone was to take an angle grinder onto the north wall...

Did I just hear an echo of a Dangerouser Cliffs lynching party?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8/12/2016
7:13:42 PM
On 8/12/2016 lightfoot wrote:
>(snip)
>Gledhill bivy is worth the trip in itself. Do what you need to to spend the night there.

+1
sgodwin
9/12/2016
11:42:53 AM
On 8/12/2016 gfdonc wrote:
>On 8/12/2016 Grinder wrote:
>>Has Ozy busted your lip Steve?
>
>>If we manage to move fast enough on the first day on the wall we might
>>even have time to haul to the Gledhill Bivi and spend the night there
>instead,
>
>Naah .. just biting mine ..
>
Don't worry. I don't have any illusions about how fast we'll be. We've had our arses well and truly handed to us on 'easy' walls before, so this time I'm being conservative and planning on taking a long time.

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 71
There are 71 messages in this topic.

 

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