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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Blueies with a Portaledge.
Bultitude
25/06/2013
11:11:58 PM
So there has been talk amongst the UNSW Outdoors club about buying a portaledge for routes like Ozy and such in Vic.

I was looking at getting some practice nights in on it on some of the bigger blueies climb (I know I don't need a ledge, it'll just make it a different kind of fun).

Any suggestions for routes that are steep enough to haul on?
One Day Hero
26/06/2013
12:30:55 AM
Madge Mcdonald and Weak as I Am are both pretty steep. I'll buy you guys beers if you go up on a friday night, stick clip your way up either route, and bivy on the 4th or 5th bolt!*


*You have to stay there and brew coffees until the first wave of sport doggers show up and ask you to clear the route..........you must then reply "fuch off, it's taken, go climb something else"

Macciza
26/06/2013
12:52:46 AM
DogFace is ok . . ..
Gigantor is easy access

Also fun can be had out in the Grose
Perrys is a possibility . . .

Cheers
anthonycuskelly
26/06/2013
8:09:37 AM
ODH, you're making taking a portaledge to the crag sound like a good idea. It's like a hammock that you can brew coffees on.
PDRM
26/06/2013
8:58:16 AM
On 26/06/2013 Macciza wrote:
>DogFace is ok . . ..
>Gigantor is easy access
>
>Also fun can be had out in the Grose
>Perrys is a possibility . . .
>
>Cheers

Colossus? Can make a two day event of it with a night under the roof.

P

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26/06/2013
8:58:26 AM
On 26/06/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>Madge Mcdonald and Weak as I Am are both pretty steep. I'll buy you guys
>beers if you go up on a friday night, stick clip your way up either route,
>and bivy on the 4th or 5th bolt!*
>
>
>*You have to stay there and brew coffees until the first wave of sport
>doggers show up and ask you to clear the route..........you must then reply
>"fuch off, it's taken, go climb something else"

You have just sown the seed of an idea for The Horn area at Buffalo next time there is an outdoor-ed course retrobolting happening there...
~> Have to get a T-shirt made up though, something along the lines of 'You got ambushed by an aid climber? What kind of spurt climber are you anyway? !!'
Heh, heh, heh.

Miguel75
26/06/2013
9:14:27 AM
On 26/06/2013 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>ODH, you're making taking a portaledge to the crag sound like a good idea... SNIP...

It isn't? If you've got one, flag it;)

I take mine out pretty often though (usually) to less travelled routes. The times I've had people climb by they've been pretty stoked to climb in and sus things out.

I reckon the OP should get out there and have fun. I've turned many single pitch climbs into multi day epics;)

Macciza
26/06/2013
9:26:09 AM
On 26/06/2013 PDRM wrote:
>Colossus? Can make a two day event of it with a night under the roof.
>
Or climbing slowly over 3 days, 1 night at the alcove(2nd belay), the next up under the top roof (4th belay) . . .
PDRM
26/06/2013
9:57:19 AM
On 26/06/2013 Macciza wrote:
>On 26/06/2013 PDRM wrote:
>>Colossus? Can make a two day event of it with a night under the roof.
>>
>Or climbing slowly over 3 days, 1 night at the alcove(2nd belay), the
>next up under the top roof (4th belay) . . .

Very mellow option. Sounds good! :)
Miss the Blueys and Dog...
P

hangdog
26/06/2013
2:20:12 PM
Set it up half way across the Sweet Dreams traverse. Wait till the morning and pick up a toll for each climber that passes by.
Wollemi
26/06/2013
2:52:02 PM
You guys missed this;
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/nelson-bay/other-sports-fitness/portaledge-fly-black-diamond-skylounge-big-wall-rock-climbing/1021483188
baz74
27/06/2013
6:49:23 PM
I alway thought Samarkland in the Grose would be a good route for that sort of shenanigans. Never done it though but it looks awesome and Aiding should make it a lot easier than 25.

Rocksinmyhead
27/06/2013
9:18:50 PM
The Masterpiece at Piddo. Extra points if you haul it with you as you go.

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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