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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Sweet dreams, variant pitch 4?

9:14:58 PM
We climbed sweet dreams today, and there was a line of ring bolts going straight up from the end of the traverse pitch that I don't remember from last year. I've searched around, and I can't seem to find any information about this pitch. Does anyone have some info?

At the end of the SD traverse pitch (#3), there are two sets of DBBs, very close to each other. Directly above the second of these, there is a line of ~10 ring bolts on the steep wall, left of the normal SD route. This line stays left of the large ledge, and eventually meets up with the other grade 17 variant finish just a few bolts before the top-out.

We climbed the line- it was steep, juggy, and fun- somewhere around grade 17. This is NOT the commonly climbed grade 17 variant finish on the left side of the large ledge. I've done that climb as well. The line I'm talking about is left and around the corner from the other SD finishes.

Any info would be appreciated. Cheers!

8:24:50 AM
What you probably climbed was the 3rd pitch of my route Sacharine Nightmare (22) that starts from ground level, about 20m right of Sweet Dreams, and crosses that route on the black slabs. It doesnt finish as for Sweet Dreams - it has it's own finish up a little 4th pitch about grade 16. It's a full sport route.

The description is on

1:46:16 PM
Cool- thanks Neil.

There are 3 messages in this topic.


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