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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
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Author
morroco trad climbing beta

freesolo
30/04/2013
9:44:05 PM
anyone ever climbing trad in morroco near agadir?? grapevine says there is a new area under development. any info appreciated.
Gareth
1/05/2013
12:43:54 PM
There's a new guide. Go to http://www.moroccorock.com/

freesolo
1/05/2013
4:44:27 PM
cheers for that. anyone been there?? camping/ transport ???
johnpitcairn
2/05/2013
11:07:27 AM
Looks like it's been taken down...?

ajfclark
2/05/2013
12:06:56 PM
That URL works fine from here.

SteveC
2/05/2013
1:03:54 PM
Not sure about climbing near Agadir, 10 seconds on google didn't turn up anything so I'll just talk about the things I do know- I was in the Tafraoute area in 2009, There's a bunch of granite in the area, some of it painted blue for some reason, but we didn't touch any of it. You go there for the Anti-Atlas Range which is a bit like an entire mountain range of Arapileses. If you like ground up trad adventures and cragging in mild climate and exotic locations then you'll love it. Leave the drill and duffel bag full of bolts at home.

The climbing history, I think, is that a couple of burned out pommy rockstars stumbled across the place about 10 years ago and since then it has slowly been gaining traction. I had the impression it was the next big thing with the poms now that they've ruined Spain and realised they are generally shit at sport climbing anyway. In fact the whole reason I went there was cos I was hanging out with some poms on an earlier trip and they were going gonzo about the place.

We spent about 3 weeks picking off plum routes on some of the bigger features and some cragging. All FAs on the big routes but i think most of the cragging we did were repeats (mostly so we could downgrade them for the new guidebook). In that time we were aware of just one other group of climbers which included the guide book author for This Book .

Even though I know some of the routes I did went into that guide book, some of the really hilarious adventurous ones didn't and I really think that this place is perfect for no guidebook, ground up adventuring. The topography of the rock is such that almost every belay stance had multiple options for the next pitch. I recall spending afternoons scanning mountains with binoculars for the next days route, only to get up there the next morning and pick a different line from the ground, then each pitch above being chosen according to the leaders preference for the face or the chimney, the crack or the juggy roof, and routes fell away as incremental pitch by pitch decisions. And we always topped out!

As far as accom and transport beta goes- We flew into Marrakesh and rented cars so as to take fate into our own hands, (Driving in Morrocco is still close to the top of my danger/fun list) and you'll need cars to go out to the mountains. We stayed for not much money at a grubby hotel in Tafraoute. You can also stay in style at Les Amandiers at the top of the hill or just go there to drink beer (only place in town). No camping that I know of but we bivvied by the car close to our next objective a couple of times in moderate discomfort. Be prepared to be trampled by Berbers and their goats early in the morning because you will always be camping where they want to trample.

Also, it just occurred to me, try researching on UKC theres probably a stack of info with all those british trad bumblies on their forums and some of the stuff I've said may be wrong now- it's just what I did.

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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