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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Bulahdelah first timer

pedro.c
8/04/2013
5:10:30 PM
I'm taking the family up to camp at seal rocks for the first week of the school holidays (next week) and we'll be taking the opportunity to get some time on the wall at Bulahdelah.

theCrag.com offers this advice "Access to the main areas is constantly changing due to the current roadworks. At the moment turn up Stuart St and follow the trail under the new highway."

Is this still the case?

Also I'm a bit baffled by all the warnings of private property access problems followed by descriptions of climbs located on or the near the private property/s. If I do use these private properties to access climbs are we likely to be shot at, asked to leave or ignored?

Can someone please tell me where a first timer at Bulahdelah may find some accessible climbs in the 18-21grade range and some clear directions on how to find them?

Some helpful advice would be appreciated.

nmonteith
8/04/2013
8:03:29 PM
Contact vwills on these forums. She is up there most weekends.

pedro.c
8/04/2013
8:17:28 PM
Thanks Neil.

I'll try and get in touch with her however I hear she's in Spain.

Macciza
8/04/2013
9:37:37 PM
Or even better,
Try and get in touch with John Wilde, for a Wilde time . . .

vwills
8/04/2013
10:16:36 PM
The access at the moment is tricky without a 15minute walk uphill (a shock to NSW climbersbut not that bad). The rain at the beginning of March has led to major potholes that has swallowed several cars in the last few weeks and it is now advisable to walk most of the fire trail to the main mountain carpark. Having been away the last 6 weeks I didnt realise this and almost lost the Forester into a large hole at midnight on saturday. Apparently Forestry know of this, have other priorities, and are going to close the road, but there is no warning sign as yet.
SO advised current access if coming from Sydney is to turn right into Blanch St, then right into McKenzie. McKenzie does a little bendy thing so go left then right and 400m after getting onto McKenzie turn left at a state Forest sign and drive across a brand new bridge that takes you over the new freeway. It would be advisable to park on the other side of the bridge and walk up the hill as the road rapidly deteriorates. After a short distance on the road the old tramway heads off left and up and is the quickest walk up the mountain, or just stay on the road.
The best climbs at Buladelah are over grade 20, but there are a few areas you can try.
When you get to the cliff head north on the walking track towards lookout. The second major pinnacle you encounter (Lichen Pinnacle) has 2 bolted 18ish routes on its south face that are visible from the track as brushed streaks. They share the same anchors. The routes at Boiler wall that you walk directly past are also in your grade range.

The other wall to try in the area is lookout wall. Keep going towards the lookout and drop down to the left (town side) just before a cutting and keep contouring towards lookout. If you find yourself on stairs heading up to Lookout platform you have gone too far by about 100m. This wall has 11 routes at present from grade 13 to 23(the 23 is the rightmost route).

The Delah walls with Bumble buttress also has a cluster of routes in the 14-24 range. From the mountain car park go straight up the steep hill to the right of the quarry entrance to a saddle. Drop over the ridge then head north and slowly ascend. I think the crag.com has some topos for this area.

You will no doubt get lost and curse me. There is a guide in production but you are too early...
John Wilde is there more than me. Look for the blue Barina outside the bakery at 9am any weekend morning....

pedro.c
9/04/2013
8:16:46 PM
Thanks Vanessa

Looking forward to it.

Hope to see you there.
mabsydney
30/04/2013
9:10:25 PM
Can anyone tell me how to find Fieg's overhang? I was up there a couple of weeks ago and interested to check out Renaissance and Trigonometry, but couldn't find the place.

vwills
30/04/2013
10:31:25 PM
Even if you find Fiegs overhang which is 70m north of the main cave on the east side of the ridge you probably wont locate those routes which are 2 tiers above. Currently they have had 1 ascent and rap anchors arent installed so we downclimb a grade 10 chimney to get off . Unless you like a bit of dirt and vegetation in your cracks and dont mind a little loose rock you may not enjoy Bulahdelah trad climbing. Belly button, and the Cleavage on the second (Bellybutton) pinnacle are probably the most acessible trad routes up there, via the mountain car park (which it is best to walk to after crossing the bridge over the new bypass, rather than drive up the hill). There are also 3 decent trad routes on Perfect Wall and a couple of OK trad routes on the Green Wall.
You can email me if you want further info.
mabsydney
1/05/2013
6:14:46 AM
Thanks Vanessa, I'll send you a message.

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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