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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Wolgan - Mystery Mountain - Landslide area
12:14:55 PM
Was camping at the Wolgan this Easter, and couldn't stop looking at this amazing line on Mystery Mountain (opposite Old Baldy). I think the area is called the Landslide Area, and the line is the obvious huge corner on the LH boundary of the big yellow face. There is a big (offwidth/squeeze chimney size?) crack running up the corner for about 35m to a curved ledge, then directly up again for another 25-30m to an overhang at the top of the yellow face. Looks like a crack through this overhang giving access to the grey face above, then another crack diagonally up and right through this grey face for another 25m or so. It is a very obvious line, so presumably done before, but I couldn't find any descriptions for routes on this face. Anyone know what it is?


12:57:09 PM
Neve mind - found it. Looks like this area is called "The Point" on the SRC guide, and the climb is probably Electric Kool-aid (15, 3p) - perfect :-)
8:13:56 PM
Hmm. After exploring the area, we found Electric Kool Aid and Psychedelic, and this climb isn't either of them. It appears to be undescribed - but surely it must have been climbed. Anyone recognise this line?

Pic taken from the smaller campsite across the river.

I'd love to know what this is. Appears to be quite hard, but definitely doable, and very exciting...
10:08:34 PM
and a closer look

10:47:06 PM
That line looks rad. Don't forget a TR when you send it;)

1:21:59 AM
It's a stonking line - I remember looking up at it on each trip and wondering the same thing. Presumably it's offwidth, given the crack is clearly visible from such a long way away.

I vaguely recall a campfire conversation one night which mentioned that Giles Bradbury had tried it back in the dark ages - I wonder if Mikl knows anything about it?
8:58:11 AM
pmonks - Mikl doesn't seem to, no. But I'm sure you are right, someone must have tried it - but you'd think if it had been done, it would have been written up, it is a fantastic line.

miguel - hmm, I think this is a bit above my pay grade. But if there is a strong trad leader out there who wants to give it a crack, I'd love to be belay slave / 2nd on it. Anyway, it will give me motivation to work on my crack / wide crack / offwidth techniques over the next year or two :-)

11:41:43 AM
Hi, I could be keen if the timing to be there can work out . . .
The left arching overhangy bit looks quite interesting too . . . .
Drop us a line if you plan heading that way again . . .
I have other projects downstream as well . . .
1:58:21 PM
If I didn't see you chime in I was going to point out this thread to you :-)

Pity you couldn't make it this time, I'll certainly let you know when we go up again. Similarly, if you get a break and fancy going up, just drop me a line. Would be happy to help you on your other projects too. Don't mind a bit of a walk, either.

There are 9 messages in this topic.


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