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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
International (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Geyikbayiri - Turkey
ademmert
17/02/2013
5:14:58 PM
Hi anyone climbed here that has any bata on the area??
Did you like it?
Where did you stay?
How long is a good amount of time there?

or anything else useful

Cheers

JMK
17/02/2013
10:41:48 PM
Good place - u can stay in the village at b& b or at campground. Book online and they pick up from airport fo about euro 20.

Village has no shops but a bread guy delivers daily. Also spring water for drinking in village is great. Couple small places to eat but really good.

Climbing is all bolted limestone. Either vertical to very overhanging. I spent 2 weeks there. Did lots of routes 6a to 7b. Generally very well bolted.
U can arrange cheap car hire but petrol is pricey. Did a. 2 day trip to Olympos for surf and local crags.

No shopping in village. Antalya is 25 km away so difficult to get to but car hire is easy from guesthouse

Had a great time there

Nmonteith
18/02/2013
9:23:38 AM
On 17/02/2013 ademmert wrote:
>Hi anyone climbed here that has any bata on the area??
>Did you like it?

Yes, but watch the sun factor. Mny of the better cliffs get a lot of all day sun. The climbing isn't as good as nearby Kalymonos but certainly great for a change. I found the climbs a bit hit and miss, mostly because the guidebook was one of those annoying guides that didn't use a star rating system! Grrrr. There is some stellar tufa routes and some fun pockets, however some of the rock is a bit chossy. Good quality bolts but the rap anchors were usually pretty shite, mostly old rope tied directly through fixed hangers. Yum yum.

>Where did you stay?

The campground is great, literally 100m from one of the crags. Super convenient. You can walk to all the areas easily. There is also little cabins that looked really nice set amongst the campground. There is a cafe on site that does communal dinners (very tasty).

>How long is a good amount of time there?

1 to 2 weeks fine. One week if you don't take rest days! :-)

Nearby Olympus has climbing and an awesome beach and roman ruins. Only an hour away from memory.

>
>or anything else useful

The MAJOR problem we had was not having a car, and relying on taxis and the campground staff to get us to the town and back. We felt pretty stranded - nowhere to get groceries. I recommend hiring a car. The campground has a couple you can rent but organize in advance! petrol in turkey is CRAZY expensive - even more than in the uk. So don't depend on driving all over turkey, just use hire cars for local transport.

Turkey has an amazing bus network - super clean, cheap and easy to arrange for traveling long distances. Way better than any buses I have been on in Australia. We used them for the long travel periods - I can thou rally reccomened Istanbul and anywhere along the western coastline. Great food, friendly locals and superb roman ruins everywhere. Turkey is great.

>
>Cheers
ademmert
18/02/2013
1:00:08 PM
How long were you in turkey all up neil?

nmonteith
18/02/2013
1:15:44 PM
3-4 weeks I think. I spent the first 3 days in my tent in Geyikbayiri as I was officially in go-go-STOP mode after 12 days straight of climbing in Kalymonos. We climbed for first 1.5 weeks or so (Geyikbayiri and Olympos) then just did the tourist thing up the coast to Istanbul - stopping at a few seaside towns (eg Kos), checking out super roman ruins at Ephesus, exploring trenches and museums around Gallipoli and then a few days in Istanbul. We could have easily spent a LOT longer in the area. So much to do.

nmonteith
18/02/2013
1:23:35 PM
Here is my photos...

http://neilshaulbag.smugmug.com/Sports/Climbing/2842008-Turkey/4824713_C53V8T#!i=290843789&k=xQTmr3N

dave h.
18/02/2013
2:48:04 PM
+1 re Neil's comments on the buses. They're excellent.

Turkey really is great (although I have no idea about the climbing). I lived in Istanbul for a year when I was about 13. Super friendly people. Be sensible, don't act like the drunken backpackers who descend on Gallipoli around Anzac Day, and you should be fine.

nmonteith
18/02/2013
3:05:40 PM
One of the cultural "highlights" of climbing in Turkey is all the Russian and other eastern bloc climbers. Apparently they don't need a visa for Turkey, whilst Europe requires one? Anyway - they were by far the majority of climbers! They had awesome rat-tails, mullets and ate a lot of tinned pork.They also didn't wear much clothing.

freesolo
19/02/2013
5:43:04 AM
bolted limestone. moderate number of quality routes for 3 weeks. weather can be iffy, loads of rain or loads of sun. pluses and minuses for each camping. bus system is better than before and hitching is pretty easy for shopping.

nmonteith
19/02/2013
7:34:57 AM
On 19/02/2013 freesolo wrote:
> hitching is pretty easy for
>shopping.

We tried hitching twice but ended up walking the entire way - in the midday sun.

Big G
19/02/2013
9:41:16 AM
Never climbed in turkey but loved my 6 week trip through turkey around 2000. Istanbul was awesome, favourite city in the world. the whole west coast was superb. loved the food, the history, the buses were generally pretty good (1 exception to that but it made for a great story anyway). Didn't get west at all so cant comment but cappadocia (sp.?) looks amazng.
ademmert
19/02/2013
12:13:14 PM
Thanks Guys, really looking forward to it.
Has anyone been there more recently?

Is josito still the place to stay?? or the climber garden??

Cheers
Adam

trog
19/02/2013
12:35:40 PM
I was there around 2 years ago - Josito's was fine then. There are a few other places like climbers garden (CG closer to the sunny climbs, further from the shady sectors... but all pretty compact really), but Josito's is the easiest for consumer climbing - lots of people flying in a for a week or 2 from Germany, Austria etc get all meals etc made for you, picked up from the airport etc.

We had wheels, so shopping wasn't a problem and we cooked for ourselves most nights. Apparently the markets down the hill are tourist prices - where people from the city go to feel like they are getting a bargain, but aren't really. Still not bad for local produce.

The meals the campsite did seem to vary from average pasta to very tasty BBQ fish - it's worth picking which nights you don't cook yourself (euro 8-10 i think). Beer was expensive (2.50), but is everywhere in turkey. All the campsite prices were in Euro.

We spent 2 weeks in Geyikbayiri compared to 7 on Kaly... felt about right :)

Turkey is awesome though, we spent more time just poking around places like Cappadoccia, Heraklia, Istanbul, and the coast up towards Bodrum, than actually climbing in Turkey.
ademmert
19/02/2013
12:54:58 PM
Thanks Trog.

Did they have cooking facilities you could use or did you have your own stove etc??

Cheers
Adam

trog
19/02/2013
1:00:56 PM
we had a van with a built in stove + fridge so just used that... but from memory there were a bunch of gas bottles with a burner on top floating around - not sure how it worked, whether you needed to rent it or not and whether there was cookware floating around or a fridge available.

Some of the huts may have had kitchen facilities too, not sure.

nmonteith
19/02/2013
2:35:09 PM
On 19/02/2013 ademmert wrote:
>Thanks Trog.
>
>Did they have cooking facilities you could use or did you have your own
>stove etc??

We struggled to find metho for our Trangia stove (apparently metho is considered drinking alcohol and being a Muslim country this is a problem?!) - so we ended up hiring one of their old clunky gas stoves. There wasn't any communal stoves or a kitchen.

TheBerg
20/02/2013
6:34:08 AM
I was there off and on for over 3 months last year. Stayed in JoSiTo camping the whole time.The campsite is a very social place - which was a big plus for me as I was travelling solo. In fact, I made enough contacts in the first 2 months there to keep me busy with friends and climbing partners for the rest of the year travelling throughout Europe. From my experience, climber's garden is a much quieter campground where you can enjoy your own space a little more. Not much difference in price or in facilities between there and JoSiTo.

Best season is from October - April. Before/after that it gets very hot and you can only comfortably climb in the shady sectors. You can rent a gas cooker for 1 euro/day (but almost always people don't mind you borrowing their's). On Sunday the small town (Akdamlar) at the base of the mountain has a bazaar where you can buy super cheap fruit and vegetables for the week's cooking. On the way to Antalya there are many large supermarkets (Migros, Kipa Extra, etc.) where you can buy almost anything you need. I never had any problems hitchhiking - I did many trips all the way into Antalya and back without issues. Also you can take the bus from Akdamlar to Antalya (bus 521 or 501 from memory).

As for routes - there are currently somewhere close to 1000 bolted lines within walking distance from the campsites (max 20 min). For sure enough good climbing for a 1 month trip. I climbed solidly 2 days on, one day off for over 3 months and never got bored. However, I do agree with Neil's comment that nearby Kalymnos is better in terms of rock quality. The grading is gernerally softer than the rest of Europe (similar to Kalymnos). Personally, I think the best sectors are 'Sarkit' and 'Trebenna', and the small sector 'Left Cave' has some quality routes.

If you need any more info about my experiences in Geyikbairi or other climbing areas in Europe feel free to PM me. Might be some time replying but I'll get back to you for sure. Enjoy the holiday! Nick
ademmert
20/02/2013
11:30:14 AM
Thanks Heaps Nick
Really useful info!

Might send you a pm with more questions as they arise.

Cheers
Adam

nmonteith
20/02/2013
12:51:15 PM
p.s. I have the guide Adam if you wanted to borrow it.

pei
28/02/2013
12:03:54 PM
I was there in May 2010, I think it was quite hot at that time of year from what I remember and had to plan to climb in shady crags. Anyway I don't have too much to add to what was said above. I enjoyed the food at Josito and it was definitely the busiest place climbers-wise and close to many of the cliffs.

If you get sick of staying in a tent, and want a night under a roof, the Rasayana guesthouse (see http://antalyarockclimbing.com/guest-house-en.htm) was nice, with the shared rooms not too expensive, they have camping also. It's a family-run organic farm, and they cook amazing food.

I didn't have any problems with hitching in to town (or even between cliffs when I was lazy!).

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
There are 26 messages in this topic.

 

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