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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All TAS (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Seeking Tasmania Sport Advice
keith2000
23/01/2013
12:49:05 AM
Hello

I'm visiting Tasmania for two weeks from 10 Feb.

If possible, I would love to do a bit of sport climbing when I visit. I'll bring a rope and draws etc. My girlfriend can belay but does not climb or do difficult approaches.

Can anyone suggest a good area to visit?

We'll have a rental car. Flying in to Launceston, but also planning to visit Cradle Mountain and Hobart area --- or wherever is recommended.

Grades from Aussie 20-26 ish (I think --- that's roughly french 6a to 7c or so)

Many thanks!

Keith
Cam McKenzie
23/01/2013
7:32:48 AM
hey Keith,
Hillwood (near Launceston) is probably the most extensive sport climbing area in Tas, and has an easy approach. There are quite a few bolted routes in the Launceston Gorge as well, though I've never climbed there before.

In the south your best bet would probably be the Paradiso at Mount Brown on the Tasman Peninsula. The approach is not difficult but it is a bit lengthy (45 minutes or so). Great climbing by the sea.

There are also a number of sport routes up on Mount Wellington, but these are not very concentrated. The approaches aren't difficult, but may not be ideal for a non climber. There's also Sphinx Rock which is a sandstone cave full of bolted stuff, but it's not really why you'd come to Tassie to climb. There's always the classic Freuhauf and Waterworks in Hobart.

There are a few other sport climbing areas that are amazing but don't have easy approaches (Star Factory at Freycinet, the Boneyard at Final etc.).

Anyway, check out thesarvo.com for online guides etc.
cheers
Cam

Miguel75
23/01/2013
7:38:43 AM
I really liked Hillwood for sports climbing; there are some pretty fun climbs and cool rock.
Cam McKenzie
23/01/2013
9:10:50 AM
On 23/01/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>I really liked Hillwood for sports climbing; there are some pretty fun
>climbs and cool rock.

I'm not that big fan myself. It's got some good stuff, but most of it is very sameish. There is much much better stuff around, but nothing quite as consumer friendly and accessible.

Miguel75
23/01/2013
9:44:20 AM
On 23/01/2013 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>On 23/01/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>>I really liked Hillwood for sports climbing; there are some pretty fun
>>climbs and cool rock.
>
>I'm not that big fan myself. It's got some good stuff, but most of it
>is very sameish. There is much much better stuff around, but nothing quite
>as consumer friendly and accessible.

I have no objectivity when it comes to surfing or climbing. Regardless of conditions I'm either super stoked or just really really stoked, which can be a problem for my more discerning friends;)

nmonteith
23/01/2013
10:32:45 AM
Paradiso access is not good for non climbers, especially if the surf is up! My GF refused to go down when there was big swell, we rapped in instead and she had to jumar out.
Cam McKenzie
23/01/2013
11:18:45 AM
On 23/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>Paradiso access is not good for non climbers, especially if the surf is
>up! My GF refused to go down when there was big swell, we rapped in instead
>and she had to jumar out.

Yeah, probably a good call. Hard to judge these things sometimes, there's a little step you've got to scramble down. Most of the wall (the LHS anyway) is pretty sheltered from waves unless the swell is really pumping though.

jkane
23/01/2013
1:43:15 PM
On 23/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:
> My GF refused to go down when there was big swell

smirk.

vwills
23/01/2013
3:41:09 PM
I am not sure that the GF would consider the 45min walk out to the Paradisio, on sand, through scratchy head high heath an "easy approach" either
Cam McKenzie
23/01/2013
4:19:48 PM
On 23/01/2013 vwills wrote:
>I am not sure that the GF would consider the 45min walk out to the Paradisio,
>on sand, through scratchy head high heath an "easy approach" either

This is Tassie that we're talking about here. A nice stroll along the sand dunes is certainly easy compared to the approach to the Star Factory or the Bone Yard I reckon.

If it's bolts and no walk in, you're pretty much restricted to Hillwood, Cataract Gorge, Freuhauf, Waterworks or Adamsfield. Honestly, if that was what my Tassie climbing trip consisted of, I'd prefer to just go to Freycinet and sit on the beach.

Doug
23/01/2013
4:21:01 PM
Probably the only really easy approaches to sport climbs in Tassie are Hillwood, Blackwood Rocks, the climbs on the shady side of The Gorge in Launceston and the handful of routes at Little Bluestone Bay near White Water Wall. Apart, of course, from the uber classic Hobart crags of Fruehauf and Waterworks Quarries.

D.Lodge
24/01/2013
2:36:26 PM
Apart from the last section of the walk to the paradiso it was a pleasant stroll. Knee high bushes with a fantastic view, the climbing is also fantastic. Get out there if you can, had a ball just before Xmas for a couple of days.
One Day Hero
24/01/2013
2:47:00 PM
Just keep your eyes open for the Tiger Snakes when going to the Paradiso. It isn't "if", it's "where"!
keith2000
24/01/2013
7:45:49 PM
Thanks for all the replies. I will hopefully go check out some of these areas.

Does anyone know anything about Fingal? There seems to be a nice recent pdf guide and it looks good.

Regarding my comment about difficult approaches: I mean that my girlfriend won't want to abseil in and belay me from a tiny exposed ledge, not that the walk-in must be easy.

Long and/or bushy walk-ins etc (and short easy ones) are fine.

Doug
24/01/2013
9:00:01 PM
On 24/01/2013 keith2000 wrote:
>Thanks for all the replies. I will hopefully go check out some of these
>areas.
>Regarding my comment about difficult approaches: I mean that my girlfriend
>won't want to abseil in and belay me from a tiny exposed ledge, not that
>the walk-in must be easy.
>
>Long and/or bushy walk-ins etc (and short easy ones) are fine.

In that case, you really should try to spend a few days on the Organ Pipes. After Midnight and In Flagrante Dilecto, both 24, both three stars, both 50 metres long are two of the best sport climbs you will ever do. Apart from those two standouts, there's quite a lot of other good quality sport climbing up there. The routes may not be very concentrated but you don't have to go too far to be able to do a few together at a time.
Check out the guide on thesarvo: http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/The+Organ+Pipes?showChildren=true#children
Cam McKenzie
24/01/2013
9:07:29 PM
On 24/01/2013 keith2000 wrote:

>Does anyone know anything about Fingal? There seems to be a nice recent
>pdf guide and it looks good.

Most of the new stuff at Fingal is half way up the cliff, so probably won't fit your criteria. As Doug said, there are some pretty amazing routes on the Organ Pipes, it's my local so I'm probably biased but I reckon it's got some of the best routes in Tassie.

Grunt Master
24/01/2013
10:30:09 PM
Cam...

I am very confused. You post all of these replies about the Boneyard, and yet, I have not met you here yet... So have you simply not bothered to inform the landowner (as requested) of your prescence... or are you talking from a slightly more authoratative stance than you should be?

There is a load of great stuff available to a climber such as this, and we would love to have them over. I would also love to have you over anytime. But as previously mentioned... it is confusing when you answer with such authority on an area that we have not sighted you at yet!

Kind regards


Andrew (owner and very lame climber )
dalai
24/01/2013
11:31:43 PM
Andrew. Anyone who has seen the guide and the location of the Boneyard can easily see it isn't meeting the OP's access requirements for the girlfriend... Abseil access, sloping ledge.

"My girlfriend can belay but does not climb or do difficult approaches."

plus

"Regarding my comment about difficult approaches: I mean that my girlfriend won't want to abseil in and belay me from a tiny exposed ledge, not that the walk-in must be easy."


Grunt Master
25/01/2013
8:54:59 AM
Hi Martin,

Thankyou for so elegantly pointing out the posters requirements... I can read too.

The point that I was making was that, in the same excellent new guide that you refer to, there are multiple other areas that would meet these requirements, as well as provide excellent climbing. I was also pointing out (far too abrasively... sorry Cam... rough day) that I found it strange that people were giving authoratative statements on an area that they may not be super familiar with. I note that this point has been left alone.... probably a good call... I don't intend to create an angst fest!

I agree that the Boneyard would be a poor option due to access and location issues, but there is an entire Buttress of fun up the hill (New Horizons), as well as classic routes going straight off the ground, which would only be a 10 minute walk from my house. Even if these people are unwilling or able to do a multi-pitch route, there is thoroughly enjoyable 1st pitch climbing on Saphire Rose, God Monster, Best thing since powdered milk etc. All of these routes provide safe, quality and challenging climbing around the grade spread that these climbers are looking for.

Thanks again for helping to clear up this issue.
Cam McKenzie
25/01/2013
11:26:43 AM
hey Andrew,
Nope, haven't climbed at the bone yard (have just moved back to Hobart), though mates have been raving about it. Given that it's half way up the cliff though I figured it didn't fit into the gentleman's requirements.

Based on my limited experience of Fingal (I've only climbed Sapphire Rose), I figured there are probably better places to climb single pitch sport routes.

Anyway, to each their own. I'm not trying to give authoratative statements, just giving my opinion.

If I do happen to be heading up that way, I'll be sure to give you a call before we pop in.

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There are 24 messages in this topic.

 

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