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Crag & Route Beta

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1:01:44 PM
Just wondering what the weather is like at the Arapiles, Grampians and Blue Mtns in April and May.
Coming over from Canada for a few weeks of climbing and want to max it out.
Also wondering about the any recommended routes for Au 13-22.

4:31:55 PM
Weather is pretty good for that time of year. In case you haven't been told, Arapiles is almost all trad (plus bouldering), Grampians is a mix of trad, sport and bouldering, and the Blue Mountains is mostly sport.

If you need partners, camping at Arapiles is a good option. There's usual people there at every time of year, with Easter being the peak. Only a couple of hundred meters walk from the campsite to the nearest climb.

Grampians is a bit more spread out. Northern Grampians is probably a good place to start looking at, and includes Taipan wall as well a lot of the bouldering that international climbers visit for -®ion_id=9

For the Blue Mountains, the crags around Blackheath are a good starting point. Easy to access by public transport, and Shipley Upper would be one of the most popular crags in the mountains if you want a partner.®ion_id=3
8:52:12 PM
April is usually perfect. Think calm sunny days, maybe 17-25C, cool evenings. May is perhaps a bit cooler but usually still close to ideal.
3:28:51 AM
Thanks for the beta, trad is very good. what's in a a standard sort of rack, ie do I need to bring a #5 camalot or can I leave it behind?
Are guide books hard to find? I'll be in Albury for 12 days beforehand and can I find one there?
Thanks again
7:42:03 AM
Guidebooks for all three are pretty widely available (gear shops in Melbourne/Katoomba, Natimuk cafe, etc).

Rack varies obviously, but a #5 camalot is normally excessive. For Arapiles & Grampians I tend to carry a couple of sets of wires, a set of microwires, and a varying number of cams (normally only to #3). I'm leading up to 19.
9:01:02 AM

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One Day Hero
10:14:06 AM
On 21/10/2012 bladeso wrote:
>Coming over from Canada for a few weeks of climbing and want to max it

If you're coming out solo, probably best to go straight to araps and pretty much stay there the whole time. Easiest way to find partners and "max it out" on consistently good routes. The gramps has some of the best 5.12 to 5.hard routes in the world, but there aren't a ton of amazing climbs at 5.11 and below situated close enough together to make for good milage days.

If you have a partner, a car, and good navigational skills, you might be able to get some full days of climbing in at the gramps and blueys too..............seriously though, if I was only coming out for a couple of weeks, I'd spend it all at araps.

Gear- at squamish I was climbing with 1 set of wires, about 20 cams, and 8 draws. At araps it's usually more like 2 sets of wires, a set of cams, a dozen draws, and lots of 60cm slings. Some routes need more cams, but it's never 30m of splitter in one size. You won't need the 5 cam unless you're the type of sicko who goes looking for wide cracks to climb.

>Also wondering about the any recommended routes for Au 13-22.

There's hundreds of awesome routes at araps right across that grade range, just wander round like a kid in a candy store and climb everything which looks good.

If you're more keen on lots of driving and exploring, there's lots of good stuff in the gramps and blueys too (and try to get to point perpendicular for a day!)

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