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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles Bard Buttress (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ]

Author

XI

Will_P

23-Oct-2012
3:43:46 PM

At the risk of starting a repeat of a long-standing debate... and at the risk of being accused of wanting to sanitise and suburbanise the trad experience... the route description of XI ("ex-eye" or "eleven" or "zee"?) says that after the run-out start, the hollow flake takes good RPs behind it. My question is (I'm not asking for exact, specific beta here...) if I go up without the smallest couple of RPs, am I going to get any decent gear in there, or will I die (the only two options, I'm pretty sure). Is this just handy Araps vernacular for 'take small wires', or is it 'if you don't have RP brass nuts of size 0-5 you won't get any gear in'? Thanks in advance...

Eduardo Slabofvic

23-Oct-2012
3:52:41 PM

The route description is from the days before small cams were invented. Take a bunch of small cams and you'll be fine.

mattjr

23-Oct-2012
3:55:05 PM

I have lead it with a couple of sets of nuts and felt safe.. no rps on my rack.

pecheur

23-Oct-2012
4:43:13 PM

On 23/10/2012 Will_P wrote:
>At the risk of starting a repeat of a long-standing debate... and at the
>risk of being accused of wanting to sanitise and suburbanise the trad experience...
>the route description of XI ("ex-eye" or "eleven" or "zee"?) says that
>after the run-out start, the hollow flake takes good RPs behind it. My
>question is (I'm not asking for exact, specific beta here...) if I go up
>without the smallest couple of RPs, am I going to get any decent gear in
>there, or will I die (the only two options, I'm pretty sure). Is this just
>handy Araps vernacular for 'take small wires', or is it 'if you don't have
>RP brass nuts of size 0-5 you won't get any gear in'? Thanks in advance...

Will aren't you the guy who's done every Araps route in the guide (I never did find out if that was the Simey or Sheppard guide) 18 and under (or was it under 18? this was a while ago and I heard it third hand).

One Day Hero

24-Oct-2012
7:30:10 AM

You don't need rp's, the flake takes normal wires. The route is completely safe.............unless you fall off the crux and the hollow flake rips. If that happens, you'll probably die. Enjoy.

rolsen1

24-Oct-2012
8:22:41 AM

On 24/10/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>You don't need rp's, the flake takes normal wires. The route is completely
>safe.............unless you fall off the crux and the hollow flake rips.
>If that happens, you'll probably die. Enjoy.

The RP in question doesn't go in the flake, I placed it, whether it is needed, probably not. Not sure how hollow the flake is surely someone has fallen on it? Having said that I'd trust Edurado's opinion, I'm not sure if I had small cams, I did the route 15 years ago. It is a great climb, highly recommended.

Will_P

24-Oct-2012
11:15:35 AM

Thanks all.

And On 23/10/2012 pecheur wrote:
'Will aren't you the guy who's done every Araps route in the guide (I never did find out if that was the Simey or Sheppard guide) 18 and under (orwas it under 18? this was a while ago and I heard it third hand).'

Ha! I've heard worse rumours about me. But no, I've done lots of them (<18), but probably not even half.

There are 7 messages in this topic.