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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Southwest You Yangs Stockyards Car Park (General) [ You Yangs Guide | Images ] 

Author
North Western Outcrop project (Youies)

harold
20/10/2012
10:23:56 PM
I went out to North Western Outcrop today and decided to have a play on an old project of mine from 5 years ago, hoping I had magically become stronger since then. Unfortunately that was not the case, and I couldn't do the crux move.
Anyway, I was surprised to see two new belay bolts at the top and was wondering if anyone has been seriously trying it. I would love to know if someone is close to sending it, or even wants a belay. Would be great to see it get done.
There is a red tag at the bottom which I keep forgetting to take off, obviously any ownership has long since expired! so sorry about that.
There was a little discussion about the climb way back here with a pic.
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=5624&Replies=11&PagePos=0&Sort=

It was a great day out there today. We had fun on Baby Faced Assassin. A great face climb. Dave and I got pretty scared running it out to the top. I swore to myself 'I'm never doing this again', but when I got to the anchor thought 'Oh it wasn't too bad'. Alexy sadly ended his day with a horendous flapper slipping off the first move.

I also had a little top rope on Pain and Frequency. That is a nail crux coming out of the little roof. If anyone has some good beta for getting from the roof to the next bolt, that would be awesome. I was stepping right of the corner at the roof, then going straight up from there. I think my fingers were too trashed to do the moves though.

goshen
23/10/2012
12:58:20 PM
Hey Harold... For what it's worth, I don't remember the moves coming out of the roof being all that bad (ie, I'm sure there's a sequence for it - something along the lines of what you've described)... But higher up the arete, the holds just kind of ran out. Did you do ok with that bit?

harold
23/10/2012
2:04:41 PM
Thanks. I've done the top bit before and was right once my feet were level with the roof. It was once I reached the roof and stepped out of the corner onto the right wall it was really really thin. Just couldn't do it. Was starting to wonder if that was the right way. I think with fresh fingers it might work.

There are 3 messages in this topic.

 

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