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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Mt York - Beginner Routes

BlankSlab
17/10/2012
1:34:27 PM
Im heading up to Mt York for the weekend. My girlfriend will be taging along and wants to do some easy stuff up there.
Anyone surgest some short sub 15 grades that are nice for beginers?

Or somewhere close by that would be alright? I would suspect dam cliffs to be busy since its warming up and it will be a weekend.

climbau
17/10/2012
2:26:55 PM
try Lichenbak and CC Rider, and maybe Obituary. nothing to weird on any of those.

Big G
17/10/2012
3:45:23 PM
Mezzaluna
Noodle
unknown 14ish on ring bolts 10 m right of mezzaluna

bw
17/10/2012
3:57:12 PM
bolts? or for her to top rope?

noodle is good, steep and juggy 15, great belay/picnic block


bw
17/10/2012
3:58:42 PM
On 17/10/2012 Big G wrote:


>unknown 14ish on ring bolts 10 m right of mezzaluna

is that the one just to the left of the crack? that was my first lead :) such an underwhelming name
widewetandslippery
17/10/2012
4:41:28 PM
Mt piddington faith area. Good routes to lead and easy to top rope and its a good crag.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17/10/2012
4:46:12 PM
On 17/10/2012 Batey wrote:
>Im heading up to Mt York for the weekend. My girlfriend will be taging
>along and wants to do some easy stuff up there.

Leading or following?
... as the answer you need is relative/subjective to the person, their inclinations and previous experience. For example; if following, Auntie Jack (although Gd 19), would be a worthy undertaking and quite possibly within the ability range, but if leading, then climbau's suggestions* are more appropriate with the caveat that Obituary has a history of at least three significant accidents on it!

(* On 17/10/2012 climbau wrote: try Lichenbak and CC Rider, and maybe Obituary. nothing to weird on any of those.)

Dr Nick
17/10/2012
6:39:45 PM
Viparete (17) would be another good top rope, but it's a necky lead at the grade. There's an 18 just to the right that I can't remember much about, but part of me is saying is scary to about 2/3 height.

Obituary is OK if you're sensible with gear, but you need to take a fair bit of big stuff. Unless it's significantly changed you can thread an 11 hex through a hole near the top for a bomber runner, but carting one of those up probably adds two grades!

Out of interest, does Atomic Punk still need a cam in the break down low or has it been retroed to make a proper sport route? ISTR when it first got rings you still needed the cam unless you were prepared to solo it out to about 8m.
bobic
17/10/2012
7:00:23 PM
If she's ok with heights go to Mt Boyce. I always take beginners on Sweet Irish (10) and if they handle that ok then on The Eyrie(12).

bw
17/10/2012
7:42:13 PM
On 17/10/2012 bobic wrote:
>If she's ok with heights go to Mt Boyce. I always take beginners on Sweet
>Irish (10) and if they handle that ok then on The Eyrie(12).

heh. found out my mate and my missus aren't the biggest fans of exposure on baby carrots (13)...
but yes, a good easy day at boyce there

Marto
17/10/2012
9:47:52 PM
On 17/10/2012 Dr Nick wrote:
>Obituary is OK if you're sensible with gear, but you need to take a fair
>bit of big stuff. Unless it's significantly changed you can thread an 11
>hex through a hole near the top for a bomber runner, but carting one of
>those up probably adds two grades!
>
>Out of interest, does Atomic Punk still need a cam in the break down low
>or has it been retroed to make a proper sport route? ISTR when it first
>got rings you still needed the cam unless you were prepared to solo it
>out to about 8m.

Number 2 bd cam in the break down low( 2m off the ground??) followed by a med size wire then the first carrot.....you still need a cam for the break up higher though.

The gear on Obituary is absolutely bomber, nothing too big...a healthy set of wires and hexes and a few cam's up to #3 is fine.

Big G
17/10/2012
11:08:14 PM
such an underwhelming name

Must be!

There are a few along that wall at the right grades but none are too special, especially the starts. But should be ok on top rope

BlankSlab
18/10/2012
8:01:44 AM
Sorry a bit vague with details but some good surgestions.
Shes not at all up to leading. Only done a few outdoor climbs with me in the past. Think boyce is out of the question but Piddington would be nice (she will hate me for the walk in haha).
Shes only been climng on toprope previously but time to get her seconding i think. Have the whole weekend so ill take a look at the mentioned routes and deecide on the day i think.

Thanks for the few ideas.
martym
18/10/2012
9:22:10 AM
On 17/10/2012 Marto wrote:
>The gear on Obituary is absolutely bomber, nothing too big...a healthy
>set of wires and hexes and a few cam's up to #3 is fine.

Second that!
All around obituary & lichenback is great for beginners.
Avoid Snap Crackle Pop if she doesn't like mantling! I've seen many a beginner fail to get off the ledge there - and others who just made it struggle in the rooflets.
Same with Mezzaluna - it was a beginner area once, but now the start of each climb has been systematically depleted by years of attack.

We take a lot of beginners with promise to Medlow Bath Sunbath area.

Just describe the Walk-In to Piddo as a lovely bushwalk with chance sightings of wildlife (don't tell her it'll be snakes and waterdragons)

rodw
18/10/2012
9:56:17 AM
On 17/10/2012 Batey wrote:
>Or somewhere close by that would be alright? I would suspect dam cliffs
>to be busy since its warming up and it will be a weekend.

York wont be any less busy TBH..and you get swim at the end of the day too at the dams.

bw
18/10/2012
10:19:37 AM
On 18/10/2012 Batey wrote:
but Piddington would be
>nice (she will hate me for the walk in haha).

nah, the walk out will really get the daggers out

Big G
18/10/2012
10:30:14 AM
shipley upper is a good beginners area too - yes its busy but Ive never waited to get on a climb and the walk is pretty short

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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