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Crag & Route Beta

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Tasmania

dan_b

20-Sep-2012
10:42:07 PM

Heading down to Tassie in a few weeks to Hobart then up the east coast. Whats the best option for some sub-20 trad? Limited time, approaches <1 hr are preferable, epics out of the question too!

Dan

One Day Hero

21-Sep-2012
12:08:54 AM

Hmmm......."sub-20".........."<1hr approaches"........"no epics"?

Sounds to me like someone has promised their girlfriend that "This time it'll be different, baby. Honest, it'll be lots of fun, no screaming at each other, no dragging you up stuff which is too hard, just give me one more chance baby, please"

If the sea is calm, Whitewater Wall at Frecinet has some girlfriend certified routes.........if there's waves, it could get epic pretty quick. Be careful with Mt. Wellington unless your girlfriend knows how to climb cracks, a lot of the easy routes there will be guaranteed argument starters if her only experience of "gr20 trad" is at araps. Hillwood is boring but safe, The Launceston Gorgey stuff would be good for "compromise days" where she climbs a bit to make you happy, and you wander aimlessly round shops and touristy shit to make her happy.

I wouldn't fuch around with anything on the Tasman Peninsular or any of the mountainish crags if you've promised an epic-free trip!

simey

21-Sep-2012
7:40:06 AM

Sounds like you might be better asking for recommendations on potential new girlfriends. But you are probably like ODH who doesn't mind practicing his Z-dragging on a regular basis either.

widewetandslippery

21-Sep-2012
8:17:45 AM

Freycinet is very friendly and very under rated as a crag. There is bush or paid camping. Local accomodation. A pub with bottlo. Pies and other sorts of food.

ajfclark

21-Sep-2012
8:26:49 AM

On 21/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>If the sea is calm, Whitewater Wall at Frecinet has some girlfriend certified
>routes.........if there's waves, it could get epic pretty quick.

There's a bunch of other places at Freycinet also have quick access and sub 20 climbing. The Lassies Wall and Harlequin page has a bunch of stuff: http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Lassies+Wall+and+Harlequin

skegly

21-Sep-2012
8:55:12 AM

There is also limestone caves under most of the state.

simey

21-Sep-2012
9:32:20 AM

On 21/09/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Freycinet is very friendly and very under rated as a crag.

I wouldn't say Freycinet is underrated. It is the one location everyone visits when climbing in Tasmania. And deservedly so.

Cam McKenzie

21-Sep-2012
3:58:28 PM

Mt Wellington is awesome, but depending on your crack climbing / dolerite experience, you'll probably find the grades sandbags. As a general rule, anything under grade 17 is going to involve an offwidth or a chimney. Best climbing starts at 18+. Also, it may still be pretty cold up there.

Tasman peninsula is awesome and has a huge variety of stuff to do, but most of the good stuff is > 20. The Candle Stick is awesome at grade 16 - 18 depending on which way you go, but this has got epic written all over it, so maybe not.

Freycinet has the best easy climbing in the state (and some of the best hard climbing too at the star factory). White water wall, harlequin buttress, lassies wall etc all have good stuff on them. White water wall in particular has some great routes in the teens. If you're up for a bit more adventure there are some great moderate long routes on the Hazards, though they may start stretching your < 1hr approach. Japhlion (16) is very good (if you don't mind runout slabs), and has a fun approach along he sea level traverse. Stud City (19) is absolutely awesome (other than the last jungle bash pitch).

Ben Lomond has lots of good stuff in the 18-20 range, but again, if you and your partner are not crack climbers, then there's potential for epics. Approach is a bit variable as well depending on which way you go over the scree.

Never climbed in the gorge at Launceston, so I can't comment. Hillwood is ok, but if I was on an interstate road trip, I wouldn't bother personally. Lots of people love it though.

Ultimately though, I'd just go to Waterworks and Freuhauf in Hobart and leave the rack at home.

ajfclark

21-Sep-2012
5:27:53 PM

On 21/09/2012 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>Hillwood is ok, but if I was on an interstate road trip, I wouldn't bother personally. Lots of people love it though.

Found it good to stop at Hillwood when driving from Freycinet to the ferry terminal.

widewetandslippery

21-Sep-2012
7:15:26 PM

Simey my under rated comment was not a what do you do in tassie thing but more of a I wanna climb rocks and what is a destination other on araps. For a quick visit coles bay shits all over buffalo or the gramps (provided you are not a high grade climber)

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