Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Black Diamond "STOPPER" Set. (Sizes 4 to 13) - 10 pieces. Comes with a "free" karabiner for racking.   $109.00
16% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
International (General) (General) (General)  

Author
NZ - East Face of Pope's Nose
PThomson
18/09/2012
9:00:02 PM
G'day all,

Has anyone tackled the Alpine Rock climbs on the East Face of Pope's Nose in NZ? I'm looking at Bishop's Buttress (17) and The Vision (20) in early December this year, if I can get some more info and line up a climbing partner.

Any beta or advice?

Thanks.

-Paul

skink
19/09/2012
7:13:54 PM
I've never heard of anyone but the first ascentionists climbing those routes. They present spectacular logistical challenges which the quality of the climbing probably does not justify in the eyes of most I suspect.

So I am curious what drew you to them?
PThomson
19/09/2012
11:25:18 PM
G'day.

I'm something of an obscurist when it comes to adventurist trad routes (look at my previous posts on this forum, as evidence), and alpine rock/ice is a passion (just got back from a month in Kyrgyzstan.)

When I learned about these two climbs when I was in NZ previously, I was intrigued by the adventurousness, the presumed knowledge that they weren't climbed often, as well as the multipitching scale on such a sheer face.

The information in the guide indicates that helicopters are used to access the base of the climb... Other than money-wise, it might not be too much of a logistical problem.

skink
20/09/2012
4:48:46 AM
http://www.odt.co.nz/regions/otago/225457/choppers-flew-too-low-over-wilderness-areas-mountaineer

skink
20/09/2012
5:05:33 AM
Posting your question at http://climber.co.nz/discuss may generate some feedback

cruze
20/09/2012
6:46:20 AM
On 20/09/2012 skink wrote:
>Posting your question at http://climber.co.nz/discuss may generate some
>feedback

I am sure it will. Peter Dickson is quite active on the previous forum mojozone. My only comment would be that the Ewbank grading system crumbles at the edges of these long alpine rock routes where route finding and having consideration to ingress and egress may take precedence. That is, it is likely to be grade 17 or 20 +/- conditions/weather/whether you are climbing the original line or 20 or 50 m either side.
brendan
Online Now
20/09/2012
8:23:46 PM
I remember reading something about no more helicopter access into the base of the route (was in the great un-climbed lines issue of the climber) i can dig the article out and double check if you want.

Walking in or flying into bevan col and rapping to the base would be a "interesting" mission.

Have you done much alpine climbing before? ill be over in NZ for the summer (nov-jan) at this stage and i may be looking for a partner if mine can t make it over.




PThomson
21/09/2012
12:19:57 PM
G'day Brendan,

Yup, you're right about the chopper access. Just checked with some NZ colleagues to verify it. That does indeed make getting to the base a mission... Though not impossible. It also seems that from all reports these two routes really HAVEN'T had a recorded repeat ascent.

As to my alpine climbing... Well I've climbed a fair bit in NZ (done cook and the surrounding peaks, except for Tasman), and in Russia, and just got back from a month in Kyrgyzstan... Other than that, I've only climbed Blue Lake ice a few years ago. I'm fast on rock and mixed climbing, and no worries with snow or glacier travel. My weakness is just steep ice, because I haven't had much opportunity to practice on it. My plan is to go back to NZ for 2 weeks maybe in december and try and focus on some technical alpine climbing, preferably something obscure (though I still haven't done aspiring yet, so I might try and blast up that one as well). Not too sure who I'll be climbing with at the moment.

What are your plans, mate?
brendan
Online Now
22/09/2012
9:13:14 AM
I'll pm'd you with some details

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints