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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Mt Kinabalu roped climbing beta

7:38:00 PM
A mate and I are in Borneo this week. Kinabalu is on the list to-do, but we're a bit discouraged by all the tour companies and fees.

However we're also overwhelmingly inspired and excited by Yuji Hirayama, Daniel Woods, James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini's recent hard routes at high elevation.
We heard there might be a 10 pitch 6a or a number of other non-9a routes on amazing granite.
We've started a little communication with MountainTorq, but wondering if anyone else has some recent info on the climbing up there.

It seems the fees and permitting have changed a lot in the past few years.

8:29:15 PM
You aren't after "roped climbing beta",

You are after, 'how do I get there without paying a fortune' beta.

All those climbers you mentioned are sponsored by The North Face.

Try ringing TFN and telling them you're really good.

It might work,

Otherwise I have heard that guiding companies have Kinabalu pretty sewn up and you will pay more than you want to, no matter what,

1:03:07 AM
yeah i know it costs a lot and i'm work on working that out with local contacts.

but if anyone has some info on the routes up there, I am interested.

seems like the North Face crew was up there for publicity and personal enjoyment, not really to open a new playground for traveling climbers, but it's worth the inquiries to see what we can get up to.

2:42:05 AM
Heres some info. Seems to be mountains of red tape.

1:51:47 PM
Kinabalu has some nice looking rock and I'm sure there would be routes up there.

The tricky bit would be getting through the gate at the bottom of the walking trail. Once you're through I think you could find a climbing area without being disturbed (most tourists stick to the one path, although there is a guided via ferrata).

Some friends of mine ran up and down in a day, so I think it's possible to get in without a guide (they didn't have a guide running along behind when I saw them).

As for specific route discriptions/locations; sorry, can't help you out as I was just walking and envisaging the potential.

There are 5 messages in this topic.


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