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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Melbourne (General) (General) (General) [ Melbourne Guide ] 

Author
Black hill - top roping
Reluctant
6/07/2012
4:47:24 PM
Heading out to black hill Sunday. First time there and with kids. Looking for info as to good options for top roping locations. Have a guide book but would like other opinions. Also opinion on front or back gate as prefered entry point.

benjenga
6/07/2012
6:27:01 PM
On 6/07/2012 Reluctant wrote:
>Also opinion on front or back gate as prefered
>entry point.

Depends on which way you swing...

phillipivan
6/07/2012
7:08:52 PM
It doesnt take that long to walk around the reserve from either gate. I usually use the front.

The Deciet slab has a bunch of parallel lines that get progressively harder from about 14 to 18 or 19. Its probably easier to top belay than to sling-shot, on some of those slabs though. You may prefer to lead up the easiest route than scramble up the back of it.

The Milawa area is right near by, there are good routes in that area. Touch and go only has one carrot on top, a long static line can be tied off to a tree easily enough if you wish to get on this over graded one move wonder.

Have fun and stay safe.

Phillip Ivan.
Reluctant
6/07/2012
8:50:50 PM
Thanks phillip
How tough is the scramble up the back of deceit slab?
And for touch and go - how long a static line?

Ben_E
6/07/2012
9:07:05 PM
On 6/07/2012 phillipivan wrote:

>The Deciet slab has a bunch of parallel lines that get progressively harder
>from about 14 to 18 or 19. Its probably easier to top belay than to sling-shot,
>on some of those slabs though.

Not sure how recently you've climbed there, but in addition to the carrots are the back the Deceit slab now has some rings closer to the face that are OK for TR-ing if you use slings (at least for the Deceit and the first two climbs to the right of it), no real need to top-belay.

In general I'd agree with phillipivan that the Deceit/Milawa area probably has the highest density of decent TR-able climbs.

With some webbing or a rope you could also set up a TR on the climbs below Touch and Go (bolt like a bush pig etc), though they may be a bit mossy during winter. Frog Hollow is an OK easier climb in the area, scratch and sniff is also good on TR.

Another option would be the Virgin Summit Tor (easy approach), but I don't remember what the anchor situation is on top of that (used to be the tree, but rings may have been added).

Reluctant: Are you looking for things that the kids can climb (and if so, how old are they and what sort of grades can they do), or just climbs that have a kid-friendly approach and a base that the kids can run around on without disappearing down a cliff?

Edit: And the top of Milawa itself can be easily accessed by walking up the gully to the left of the climb.

phillipivan
6/07/2012
9:36:02 PM
I have never tried to scramble up to the top of the deciet slabs just down. I'm sure it's doable, perhaps awkward.

Scratch and Sniff is my favourite route in the area, it has two rings at the top.

Ben I know the rings you mentioned, they will work for a few of the lines on the deciet slab.
Reluctant
6/07/2012
9:59:27 PM
The boy is 8 and I have to bribe ( not cheap) to get him to climb. The girl is 11. She can handle up to grade 12 depending on how much energy her attitude to dad takes up. She's slowly improving while I quickly decline. Taken kids cathedrals, grampians before so they have some idea how not to disappear down holes.

Ben_E
6/07/2012
10:52:09 PM
Hm. Black Hill slabs may not further endear climbing to them!

Frogs Hollow and Deceit will probably be the best for them in that area, with a tight TR they will hopefully be able to get up them.

If you're not too wedded to Black Hill then Dog Rocks at Mt Alexander is also a pretty good kid crag (sorry, this may not be news to you)?

Hope you all have a good day,

Ben
Reluctant
7/07/2012
9:58:34 AM
Thanks Ben
Good bad and the ugly - have to show them all types of rock so they don't take the good times for granted.

phillipivan
7/07/2012
12:47:22 PM
On 7/07/2012 Reluctant wrote:
>Thanks Ben
>Good bad and the ugly - have to show them all types of rock so they don't
>take the good times for granted.

Then may I suggest Four Eyed and Bumless.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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