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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Spain / Portugal September - low/mid grade sport

Nayda
14/05/2012
1:31:42 PM
Got a London wedding in Sept. Still a beginner climber, grovelling leads around the 11 mark on gear, scratching up 20s on top-rope if I'm lucky, only recently dabbling in some indoor sport. Keen to practice the portuguese & spanish again, & thought a week or two on some intermediate sport might be a nice aside. Will be leaving the crew in London so looking for places where hooking up with random gumbies / intermediates would be likely. Guessing there's not much low-grade trad in Portugal & Spain? Scanned previous posts but couldn't find much on mid-grade spanish/portuguese stuff.

any info would be super appreciated

Garrath
14/05/2012
2:22:12 PM
Can only tell you that there is plenty easy stuff around Costa Blanca and the campsite at Sella might be a good place to hook up with climbers. The food is better in France though.
maxdacat
14/05/2012
6:02:50 PM
I would go with Spain over Portugal since the climbing and food is better. If you want to meet up with others then maybe Costa Blanca or Siurana would be the best bet as they both have climber bunkhouses (El Chorro does (La Finca & Olive House) but September might be a bit too hot). Both would probably be easier if you had a rental car.

The only place to stay in Costa Blanca if you want to meet others is here:

http://theorangehouse.co.uk/

they are very friendly and as it's a bunk house i found it possible to hook up with randoms there (who are more likely to be English speakers than Siurana)

There is a refuge and campsite with bungalows:

http://campingsiurana.com/home_eng.html

haven't heard good things about the refuge but that may have changed. Although Siurana has a reputation for its hard climbs, there is plenty to do at 6a-c ie your grade range.

Costa Blanca would probably offer more from a low-mid grade point of view. Worth posting for partners on UKclimbing. Also consider one of the organised weeks that the OH and places like:

http://www.rockandsun.com/

run.

CB probably has more trad options such as the Puig de Campanga which is right near the Orange House, but i wouldn't take a whole trad rack just for this. PM/reply me if you need more info.

Paulie
14/05/2012
10:12:49 PM
On 14/05/2012 maxdacat wrote:
>The only place to stay in Costa Blanca if you want to meet others is here:
>
>http://theorangehouse.co.uk/
>
>they are very friendly and as it's a bunk house i found it possible to
>hook up with randoms there (who are more likely to be English speakers
>than Siurana)
>
>There is a refuge and campsite with bungalows:
>Costa Blanca would probably offer more from a low-mid grade point of view.

Seconded...the camping at the refugio is better than the bungalows IMHO and there are loaded almond trees (well, there were when I was there) which offer a fantastic and tasty diversion to the brilliant limestone :-) Rent a car at Alicante airport..jump off plane, jump in car, drive to orangehouse or refugio, climb hard, drive back to airport, jump in plane...too easy!
maxdacat
18/05/2012
1:01:24 PM
On 14/05/2012 Nayda wrote:

>any info would be super appreciated

happy to do your research for you but perhaps some acknowledgement might be in order.

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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