Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Black Diamond: 120cm Nylon Runner. (Open sewn sling) 18mm wide nylon. Assorted colours. Awesome value IMO. SOLD OUT!  $8.00
20% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 77
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles Mitre Rock (General) South Mitre [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Rap bolts chopped above Serpent

E. Wells
23/04/2012
8:23:16 PM
I chopped the bolts on serpent. They just pissed me off, I didnt really think about too much, I just saw them and thought 'wow, an anchor on a trad 10, thats stupid' so I chopped it, so whats the deal...if whoever placed it wants to give me theyre address and pay for postage Im more than happy to send that chain back down to Taco town.
One Day Hero
23/04/2012
8:27:19 PM
On 19/04/2012 kieranl wrote:
>I find it odd that people make such a fuss about an anchor that services
>a real need but don't complain about long-standing convenience anchors
>such as those above Salem. I wonder why one OK but not the other?

Ok, so it sounds like the bolts above Salem should be the next to go. Kieran seems fine with it......finally, a bit of consensus!
One Day Hero
23/04/2012
8:36:33 PM
On 17/04/2012 simey wrote:
>Which version do you like? Is the 2012 version not to your liking? Would
>you rather we go back to the 1980's version with shitty carrots and fixed
>wires and undergraded routes and dangerous descents and very little vegetation
>around the base of the mountain?

Hmmmm, not sure about the vegetation, I do kinda like bushes and grass if they aren't encroaching upon climbs.

Everything else sounds appealing though, I especially miss the undergraded routes and "dangerous descents" (sometimes referred to as "good training for proper climbing"). I also long for the version of araps where most people were harder than me. The whole thing seemed much more exciting and real before the softc--ks took over.
kieranl
23/04/2012
8:47:18 PM
On 23/04/2012 dangermouth wrote:
>I chopped the bolts on serpent. They just pissed me off, I didnt really
>think about too much, I just saw them and thought 'wow, an anchor on a
>trad 10, thats stupid' so I chopped it, so whats the deal
Really? The chains were back there on Saturday morning when I went for a look. Don't know whether they are the ones that were removed and been returned or someone has donated a new set. Thanks to whoever..

E. Wells
23/04/2012
8:49:46 PM
damn, busted...lying....again...why does this always happen to me.
kieranl
23/04/2012
8:51:25 PM
On 23/04/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 19/04/2012 kieranl wrote:
>>I find it odd that people make such a fuss about an anchor that services
>>a real need but don't complain about long-standing convenience anchors
>>such as those above Salem. I wonder why one OK but not the other?
>
>Ok, so it sounds like the bolts above Salem should be the next to go.
>Kieran seems fine with it......finally, a bit of consensus!
Not at all what is said above. Perhaps you need to work on your english comprehension.
One Day Hero
23/04/2012
8:55:10 PM
On 19/04/2012 Wendy wrote:
>There is no hypocrisy in criticising
>putting in bolts just for a slack line in a location abundant in other
>options just because you approve of some if not all of the rap stations.

I reckon there's 5 rap anchors at araps which are easily justifiable (1 each for; Bluff Major, Bluff Minor, Pharos, Castle Crag, and D minor pinnacle). There may be a couple of others which I've forgotten, but pretty much everywhere else is descendable by very reasonable scrambling. I reckon climbers have dozens of bolt anchors which are no more justified than the slackliner bolts. The only sensible argument is "this is our patch, we found it first, now fuch off!", which is a position I'm happy to support.


>It as if I wanted to belay of some bolts because I couldn't deal with setting
>up a belay, then rip them out afterwards. That would be dumb.

As I understand it, they left the bolts, just took the hangers with them. Once it hits youtube, there'll be "repeat traversionists" appearing.........if you pull the bolts and fill the holes, be ready for the next crew to just drill fresh ones.
One Day Hero
23/04/2012
9:06:09 PM
On 23/04/2012 kieranl wrote:
>Not at all what is said above. Perhaps you need to work on your english
>comprehension.

Nah, I'm pretty sure you were endorsing the chop. You called them "convenience anchors", and back a ways somewhere you were railing about how "convenience is a dirty word"
kieranl
23/04/2012
9:15:09 PM
On 23/04/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 23/04/2012 kieranl wrote:
>>Not at all what is said above. Perhaps you need to work on your english
>>comprehension.
>
>Nah, I'm pretty sure you were endorsing the chop. You called them "convenience
>anchors", and back a ways somewhere you were railing about how "convenience
>is a dirty word"
Perhaps you need to work on your english comprehension. +1
One Day Hero
23/04/2012
9:32:49 PM
Have you ever noticed that your name rhymes with Urinal?

The good Dr
23/04/2012
10:25:38 PM
On 23/04/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Have you ever noticed that your name rhymes with Urinal?

Gold ...

Now if only someone could invoke Godwin's Law all would be well with the world.

TonyB
24/04/2012
7:58:31 AM
On 23/04/2012 The good Dr wrote:
>On 23/04/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>>Have you ever noticed that your name rhymes with Urinal?

>Now if only someone could invoke Godwin's Law all would be well with the
>world.

How's this Dr ?
http://www.metro.co.uk/weird/860263-pee-on-adolf-hitler-urinal-is-big-draw-at-german-toilet-museum
Fish Boy
24/04/2012
8:10:14 AM
I'm happy to read this stuff, the discussion, arguing whatever about bolts.

Though the geology and climbing is different here in Squamish, the number of unnecessary bolt stations on so many climbs is sad, and I wish it were more like home, even though I get more climbing done here...
pecheur
24/04/2012
8:31:09 AM
On 24/04/2012 Fish Boy wrote:
>I'm happy to read this stuff, the discussion, arguing whatever about bolts.
>
>
>Though the geology and climbing is different here in Squamish, the number
>of unnecessary bolt stations on so many climbs is sad, and I wish it were
>more like home, even though I get more climbing done here...

I felt the same in Thailand: let's put the titanium bolt next to the stainless steel bolt next to the galvanised bolt, oh and let's bolt every 1.5 metres ...

Sadly the Euros didn't see the problem, sigh.
kieranl
24/04/2012
8:47:07 AM
On 23/04/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Have you ever noticed that your name rhymes with Urinal?
MoH!

Eduardo Slabofvic
24/04/2012
9:00:43 AM
On 24/04/2012 pecheur wrote:
>On 24/04/2012 Fish Boy wrote:
>>I'm happy to read this stuff, the discussion, arguing whatever about
>bolts.
>>
>>
>>Though the geology and climbing is different here in Squamish, the number
>>of unnecessary bolt stations on so many climbs is sad, and I wish it
>were
>>more like home, even though I get more climbing done here...
>
>I felt the same in Thailand: let's put the titanium bolt next to the stainless
>steel bolt next to the galvanised bolt, oh and let's bolt every 1.5 metres
>...
>
>Sadly the Euros didn't see the problem, sigh.

Exactly
Wendy
24/04/2012
10:07:44 AM
On 23/04/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 19/04/2012 Wendy wrote:
>>There is no hypocrisy in criticising
>>putting in bolts just for a slack line in a location abundant in other
>>options just because you approve of some if not all of the rap stations.
>
>I reckon there's 5 rap anchors at araps which are easily justifiable (1
>each for; Bluff Major, Bluff Minor, Pharos, Castle Crag, and D minor pinnacle).
>There may be a couple of others which I've forgotten, but pretty much everywhere
>else is descendable by very reasonable scrambling. I reckon climbers have
>dozens of bolt anchors which are no more justified than the slackliner
>bolts. The only sensible argument is "this is our patch, we found it first,
>now fuch off!", which is a position I'm happy to support.

Methinks you are ignoring all the other arguments for having rap stations that have been given ad infinitum. Agree with them you mightn't, but they are still somewhat more substantial than any I could think of justifying bolts for slacklines over removable gear. And why have one on the pharos anyway? surely downclimbing spiral or the chimney by french crack is "reasonable scrambling"?
>
>
>>It as if I wanted to belay of some bolts because I couldn't deal with
>setting
>>up a belay, then rip them out afterwards. That would be dumb.
>
>As I understand it, they left the bolts, just took the hangers with them.
>Once it hits youtube, there'll be "repeat traversionists" appearing.........if
>you pull the bolts and fill the holes, be ready for the next crew to just
>drill fresh ones.

So at every belay that i chuck two bolts in becuase i can't be stuff setting up a gear belay, then remove them, someone else will come along and bung some more in? Look, I really need some bolts at every belay on the 8th and TTR, for speed and convenience when guiding. I know there's perfectly adequate gear anchors there, but i just can't be stuffed with them.

I was at the top of EN on Saturday. There are 4 bolts, with the nuts still on them but hangers removed, in between the top of EN and the rap station. If you had some plates on you, you could just clip a 4 point belay. Of course, you could set up a slackline by wrapping the rope around the entire lump of rock about 5m across that they are in. But that'd be way to technical. Way harder than around a tree.


 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 77
There are 77 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints