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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Southwest You Yangs Cressy Gully Road (General) [ You Yangs Guide | Images ] 

Author
Pins and Needles block at the Youies

harold
16/03/2012
5:42:00 PM
There are a couple of bolted routes on the back of Pins and Needles block that aren't described anywhere. Just wondering if anyone has any info on these climbs. They look like they have been there for a while. I will try them soon anyway, they look around grade 20ish.

I was keen to do Pins and Needles, which is a pretty cool climb, so I have replaced the rusty carrots with some shiny stainless. Same for the grade 18 the left which looks OK too.

And just so people know about these 80's vintage carrots, some had 40mm of steel in the rock, but 2 of them were only in 20mm. Even though they were well stuck in there, I wouldn't be trusting my life to them.
mikllaw
16/03/2012
6:11:46 PM
On 16/03/2012 harold wrote:
>I wouldn't be trusting my life to them...

You're not supposed to, they were just landing lights for the onsight
Dave C
16/03/2012
11:16:27 PM
I have a suspicion Andrew Lindblade may have put those bolts in behind P&N back in the late 80s and he may well have climbed them at the time but I don't know any details as I had moved to the UK by then.
CJ
17/03/2012
12:45:33 AM
To the left of P&N, probably more on the front face of the block, Andrew and I did "slab of tinnies" 18 M1 (1988), (not sure if this is the one you are describing), beacause it had an aid move to get over the horrid undercut start which then goes on to a pleasant slab above past 4 bolts. It was written up in the SW Vic guide from 2001 for reference.
Thanks for replacing the hardware, we didnt always have access to stainless then, and it was a real pain hand drilling 4 bolts in granite, so depending what was lying around the respective family sheds and how much we filed the babies down determined what went in etc.
Cheers, Chris

harold
17/03/2012
12:48:02 PM
No worries Chris. I was impressed by how well those bolts were stuck in there. And the rust was only really surface as well even 25 years later. I reckon they would hold a fair bit.
There are two unrecorded climbs on the face left of slab of tinnies that I was wondering about. Next time I am out there I will try them out. Its not a bad after work/arvo option being only 10 minutes walk from Drysdale Road.
CJ
17/03/2012
2:47:08 PM
No clues on the routes further to the left again. Probably post 88... any clues Dave? Plenty of good things to do in the Youies, despite what Mike called it many years ago,
"The land of the incredible shrinking cliffs"

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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