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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC All (General) (General) (General) [ Victoria Guide | Images ] 

Author
Long Multipitches in Vic

bigchris
13/03/2012
3:10:19 PM
Apart from driving all the way to the gramps and araps, does anyone know of any really long multi-pitches that are within a 90 minute drive from the city - say a grade 15-20?

nmonteith
13/03/2012
3:14:45 PM
I'm not sure what you mean by 'really long' but the only cliff that even remotely fits the bill is the Cathedrals. Although nothing is much higher than 130m.

http://www.chockstone.org/Cathedral/Cathedral.htm

bigchris
13/03/2012
3:33:24 PM
I should probably have said high ;) I've been out to cathedrals (north jawbone) so I might go back out there again. Anywhere else that you know of?
dalai
13/03/2012
3:46:35 PM
90 minutes is a hard task...

Tallarook (Warragul Rocks in the chockstone guide) has some longer routes, but not as long as those on the North Jawbone.

In the Eastern Vic guide there is an obscure outcrop north of Tallarook with one longer route on it. But never been to confirm the route or length...

nmonteith
13/03/2012
4:05:51 PM
Warragul is 3 pitches at most. Probably only 60m all up.

bigchris
13/03/2012
4:15:27 PM
Ok dont worry about the 90 minute thing, just not as far as Araps lol
rolsen1
13/03/2012
4:20:52 PM
Tenneriffe has 4 two pitch climbs of about 70-80m (check the guide for exact lengths) - the 13 (jasper) is good , the 19 (finger lichen) is good, the 20/21 (can't remember the grade) Claudia Rising has a great first pitch and an ok second pitch, there is also another climb not in the guide at about 16/17 left of Claudia. Apart from the second pitch of Claudia they are all slab sport climbs. All climbs are close to where you park your car, I havent been there in a number of years they may now be dirty but despite what some people say about Tenneriffe it is a great place to climb and the rock is good quality.
Cam McKenzie
13/03/2012
4:27:13 PM
Ben Nevis (just before Ararat) is certainly more than 90 minutes away but has good longish slab routes in about the grades you're looking for. Generally 3-4 pitches though the top pitches are often low angle scrub bashes. Sportingly bolted. Rap in, climb out. Good fun.

nmonteith
13/03/2012
5:00:25 PM
On 13/03/2012 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>Ben Nevis (just before Ararat) is certainly more than 90 minutes away but
>has good longish slab routes in about the grades you're looking for.

Yep, good call. Ben Nevis is the only other place I can think of that has some dcent length - but the runouts are pretty massive!
Wendy
14/03/2012
7:58:58 AM
Suck it up and drive to the Gramps. The climbing will be so much better. Not to mention way more to choose from.

shortman
Online Now
14/03/2012
8:23:01 AM
Stugang knows a good off width between two buildings in Collingwood.

There is an 8 story car park in Sth Melbourne that is good to climb after a few lagers.

Also there is a 22 story chimney at my work. Runs close to 100m.

Pat
14/03/2012
9:23:29 AM
Is that a sport chimney or is it trad?

nmonteith
14/03/2012
9:31:06 AM
If you want terror, choss and exposure then try Cape Woolamai on Phillip Island. Probably 90m high at most but guaranteed adventure. Bring a shovel to make the belays.
Cam McKenzie
14/03/2012
10:52:12 AM
On 14/03/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>If you want terror, choss and exposure then try Cape Woolamai on Phillip
>Island. Probably 90m high at most but guaranteed adventure. Bring a shovel
>to make the belays.

Cape Woolamai is the yardstick by which I measure poxy rock. Excavating gear placements from exfoliating granite cracks. Pulling off person size flakes. Belaying at the top of a cliff on tied off grass tussocks. Awesome.

nmonteith
14/03/2012
10:55:35 AM
Does scrambling back 30m from the cliff edge to thread a rabbit hole for a belay count as a pitch?
Cam McKenzie
14/03/2012
11:53:34 AM
On 14/03/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>Does scrambling back 30m from the cliff edge to thread a rabbit hole for
>a belay count as a pitch?

Only on grit, in which case, it's probably 2 pitches.

jkane
14/03/2012
1:26:12 PM
On 13/03/2012 rolsen1 wrote:
>Tenneriffe has 4 two pitch climbs of about 70-80m (check the guide for
>exact lengths) - the 13 (jasper) is good , ...
>are all slab sport climbs.

Did Jasper on Sunday, plenty of lichen but if it's dry it's not too bad. I wouldn't exactly call it sports climbing though. Bolt plates are required and there's a fair distance between bolts. There's also a trad placement in Jasper.

The end of the 2nd pitches on some of these routes are quite run out as the angle eases off. If you hit the top in the rain, it could be a bit dodgy.

There's a new number to call too as you have to use a private road for access. See the VCC website for details.

ajfclark
Online Now
14/03/2012
2:01:41 PM
http://cliffcare.org.au/eastern-victoria/teneriffe/
Wendy
15/03/2012
9:23:59 AM
On 14/03/2012 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>On 14/03/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>>If you want terror, choss and exposure then try Cape Woolamai on Phillip
>>Island. Probably 90m high at most but guaranteed adventure. Bring a shovel
>>to make the belays.
>
>Cape Woolamai is the yardstick by which I measure poxy rock. Excavating
>gear placements from exfoliating granite cracks. Pulling off person size
>flakes. Belaying at the top of a cliff on tied off grass tussocks. Awesome.

Hey, that sounds like Killiecrankie!

Cape Woolamai was where my ex put in a 10 piece belay and still didn't expect it to hold.

There are 19 messages in this topic.

 

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